Do a web search using the words "liquid chelated iron" and lots of options should come up. Are you sure you need it? Most fertilizers you might use for houseplants contain more than adequate amounts of Fe (iron). Additionally, most houseplant soils, whether peat or bark based are unlikely to be actually deficient in Fe. I use the word 'actually' because there are instances in which Fe can be present in soils, but 'unavailable' for uptake. As soil (solution) pH rises, Fe becomes insoluble and thus unavailable to plants. Aging soil, which is usually accompanied by rising pH, and instances where your water is high in pH or alkalinity can cause this type of deficiency. Generally, all that's needed to correct the deficiency is to add an acid to lower pH. A tablespoon or two of vinegar in each gallon of irrigation water normally does the job nicely for me. It lowers pH, making the Fe that was there all along available (soluble) for uptake. Though probably not applicable, antagonistic deficiencies of one element can be caused by too much of another element in the soil blocking uptake. High levels of Mn (manganese) in soils can block the uptake of Fe. Correspondingly, too much Fe in the soil can cause a deficiency of Mn, so you should always be careful about adding Fe w/o adding Mn at the same time in a favorable ratio. When I have and identify an Fe deficiency, I can usually be pretty sure it's being caused by my high pH water. When it's not practical for me to add acidity in volume (summer - watering from the hose) I use "Sprint 138" in my fertilizer solution. It's a chelate "key-late" that is especially formulated to perform under high pH conditions. Al

Sorry to disagree with you weed. That is fungal disease. How long did your grass sit on the pallet before you put it down. St Aug is very prone to disease when it does not get good air circulation. Here is a picture of iron chlorosis in otherwise healthy St Aug... Only the grass in the very center of the photo is affected and only barely affected. I happened to catch it right before the entire lawn turned yellow. I have a much better picture of St Aug chlorosis but on a different computer. Your instinct to spray with a fungicide was correct. I would not have used a spray because I have excellent experience using ordinary corn meal on St Augustine. If the spray does not work, you can still use corn meal but you will have to use a little compost first. Corn meal is a biological solution and your spray has upset the natural biology of the soil. Compost will restore that biology and then you can use corn meal. Yes, this is the corn meal you eat. As a comment on your previous die-offs: the first one was not due to a major freeze. I don't know what it was, but if St Aug survives almost every winter in Dallas, it is much more likely to survive absolutely EVERY winter in Florida. Second one was chinch bugs...or was it lack of water and mowing too low? Established St Aug must be watered at least monthly to remain alive. It needs to be watered weekly during the heat of summer to thrive. If you have sandy soil yours might need it more frequently. And most St Aug should be mowed at your mower's highest setting. Mow too low and you need to use more water...and you get weeds.

Hi All: I just bought myself a nice little Gardenia tree of the Veitchii variety. I've killed them before but I'm determined to grow at least one in my lifetime. I've found this while searching for care information on the web. Its from a California Nursery so the care should be applicable to us. GARDENIAS Soil Acidic, moist, well drained. Use an azalea/camellia type mix when conditioning soil. Light Filtered light inland, full sun on the coast. Water Evenly moist, never too wet or too dry. Adopt a consistent watering schedule. Fertilizer Use a fertilizer for acid loving plants once a month Spring-Fall. Gardenias love iron, also. Feed with iron after main flowering season. Problems Yellow leaves and leaf drop Changes in weather or soil moisture levels. Some leaf drop is normal in early spring before buds begin to appear. Yellow leaves with green veins Iron chlorosis. Feed with chelated iron or iron sulphate. Flower or bud drop Usually cold weather or inconsistent watering. Gardenias like warmth and even moisture. Tiny black or green insects on buds or leaves Aphids, spray with Ultra-Fine. Leaf tips and edges browning Salt accumulation. Leach the plant with water thoroughly. Leaves turn brown Too dry. Gardenias like to be evenly moist. Varieties of Gardenias: AUGUST BEAUTY 5 tall and 3 wide Large double white flowers May - November Heavy bloomer MYSTERY 6-8 tall 4-5" Very large flowers May-July Tends to have an open growth habit. Prune to keep neat. RADICANS 6-12" tall and 2-3 wide 1" double, white flowers. Summer bloom Small scale ground cover or container plants VEITCHII 3-4 ½ tall and wide 1 ½" white flowers May  November and through warm winters Heavy bloomer WHITE GEM 1-2 tall and as wide Dwarf plant with single, fragrant flowers Great in containers, raised beds. Blooms often. Courtesy of Sperling Nursery 24460 Calabasas Road, Calabasas CA (818) 591-9111

The roots are dying so no fertilizer is going to work unless you flush out that mix or use a whole fresh one and once the plant starts to recover, you fertilize as Steve suggested. If you have access to rain water or bottle distilled even better to use unless you change the whole mix including in the root ball. You are just going to further damage the roots with fertilizer in that mix. Flush, flush, flush)