Everyone seems to be answering there own questions. "That side of the yard does not get very much sunlight "

Oh boy. Even this "citrus nurse" is going to struggle, here. Okay, first off, let's get rid of all that grass under the tree. This poor tree is struggling enough as it is for nutrients, but the grass is simply using up any Nitrogen that might be made available to this tree's feeder roots. So, clear a very large circle under the tree. For this tree, I would suggest twice the drip line (edge of the canopy). Mike is right - paint the trunk white, never black. This may be the cause of the issue - you may have literally cooked the cambium layer with black paint. It is customary to use flat latex house paint cut in 1/2 with water to paint tree trunks. I would definitely try re-painting the trunk. The dog's damage may have girdled the tree, in which case nothing we tell you to do will save the tree. This tree is too small to have this many dead branches requiring pruning, so that clearly should be a clue something is drastically wrong. The leaves appear to be burnt. If you're applying any kind of oil to the leaves, you must make sure your outdoor temps do not exceed 35 degrees F (29 degrees Celsius), or you'll risk burning the leaves. Again, spiders are the "good guys". If you're referring to spider mites, that's an entirely different insect, and is often a sign of a stressed tree. Find out what insect you think is a spider, and get it ID'ed so you know whether or not you're dealing with a pest or a beneficial. CLM can be treated with Spinosad, with or without a hort oil added in (depending upon your air temps). You should be able to find it where you live. Be sure to use Spinosad in the later evening, when the bees have gone back to the hive, as Spinosad can kill bees. Spray every 3 weeks, 3 applications during your CLM season. You can use a hort oil to help the product stick better, but only if your air temps are low enough. Lastly, back to the watering issue. It looks awfully wet in the soil. We need to know what kind of soil you have. Is it clay, loam, sand, DG? You say you "water occasionally". Is this tree getting hit by lawn sprinklers? If so, that is certain death for citrus. They don't like their trunks constantly hit with water. It will damage the bark and leave the tree open for all kinds of fungal infections. If you're watering by hand, you want the roots to receive a good, deep (to about 18 - 24", or 7 to 10 cm) watering once to three times a week, depending on your ambient temps, humidity and type of soil. Check to make sure the tree actually needs to be watered, before you water it, so you can gauge your soil's water retention. I just use a cheap green plastic-covered plant stake, and push it into the ground. For me being on DG, if I can't push it in at all, my soil is dry (turns into cement when dry). If I can push it in, and the stake comes out moist, I'm good. You're heading into Fall now, but I think you can still get away with another application of fertilizer. Use a good quality citrus fertilizer with the proper NPK ratio (citrus require a lot of nitrogen, so you'll see the N will be higher than the PK, the best ratio is 5:1:3 in general for citrus), with the full complement of micronutrients as well (Ca, Zn, Mg, Mn, Fe). Stay in touch with your local gardening center, someone who knows citrus. Let us know how your little tree fares. I'm a little concerned about all the damage. I'm not sure if it is just how the tree is being managed, or if we're looking at something more serious, like a virus or infection of some sort. The good news - citrus are very resilient. Let's see if some better management allows the tree to spring back. It may take until next spring until you see some serious recovery, so be patient. And, remove all the fruit for now. Your tree cannot possibly support fruit production, it needs to use all its energies into recovery. Patty S.

I finally had a chance to go check out that site today and wow! That guy knew what he was talking about. There were literally hundreds of pawpaws. They were everywhere. This is a great time of year to look for them too, since the flowers hanging on bare branches is very distinctive. By looking up, you could quickly pick out a pawpaw by the silhouette of flowers against the sky. That all the other trees are still bare really helps. Anyway, the flowers on all of the trees at the site I went to are in various stages of maturity, but none are pollen bearing, yet. That's ok though, since the flowers on my pawpaw tree haven't opened yet. Does anyone know how long pawpaw pollen will be viable once harvested? And whether it will keep longer in the refrigerator? Here's a picture of one of the bigger trees I found, sitting on the banks of a creek where it had a pretty good exposure to the sky. I think that helped it grow larger, and the flowers mature earlier than most of the other trees I found.

I don't think there will be a problem of something like disease or pests killing a whole row of these. Part of the appeal is how pest free they are. Mine took off after a couple of years and got very tall in 3 to 4 years (too tall for me to trim the tops without bending down the branches). Extra water will make them grow faster but once established they are very drought tolerant. They are uniform but not so uniform as to make them all need to look exactly alike and if a part is damaged, unlike for a confer type, it will fill back in quickly. Mine have never had any problems, except one outgrew its spot and created too much shade for my purposes in a bed. They are highly recommended in Texas as a drought hardy plant. Also, they are native and that is another plus.