Make sure you have a full tank of gas
6 years ago
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Want a gas stove, but not sure about my gas line
Comments (7)You may not have to move the line at all. A foot away is nothing, and sometimes it is better than if it was right behind the range, because the end of the pipe might hit the range. Here's how it goes. If you can see the end of the pipe, there is probably a cap on it. There may also be a small red lever called a 'shut off valve'.. It's not the main shut off, just a small one for the range. If it's not there, you should add one. A plumber or someone can add this shut off valve in two minutes if it doesn't interfere with walls or cabinets. Otherwise they may have to extend the pipe either under the floor or in the wall. And yes, that is a bigger job Basically, the gas is shut off,(A clever plumber who has everything ready to go may not even bother to turn the gas off if the pipe doesn't have to be moved) ... the cap on the gas pipe in your kitchen is removed, and the shut off valve screwed on with teflon pipe putty. Now you don't need the cap, you just turn the valve to 'off' (this is always perpendicular to the gas pipe). And the gas can be turned back on -assuming it was turned off to install the appliance shut off valve. Now you're ready to go, simple install a gas flex hose from the small appliance shut off valve to the back of the gas range. These flex lines are usually about 2 feet long- but often longer. Once the flex line is installed,(usually running under the range, or between the legs of the range and then up the back to the connection on the range) you turn the small shut off valve 'on' and you're ready to cook. Now, the only tricky part is knowing where the gas connection is on the back of the range. Every manufacturer puts it in a different spot, but usually it's fairly low on the back. So, yes, you may have to add some gas pipe, or an elbow, because you don't want the gas pipe or the flex line to hit the range. Usually the gas pipe should be close to the floor and between the legs of the range,(either in the floor or low on the wall) or off to the side a bit if there is no interference with cabinets and doesn't show. The plumber will need to know this before doing any work, or you should have the range nearby for them to look at. Oh, and you're going to need an electric outlet nearby as well. This should also be close to the floor so the plug won't hit the back of the range, or again- slightly off to the side if there's not interference and doesn't look bad....See MoreTime to order my cabinets! Help me make sure I have it covered.
Comments (15)First - congrats for being to the ordering stage!!! How exciting. I'm in the same area of planning things out now - figuring out how deep each drawer should be. And should the wide drawer stacks have one long drawer or two smaller ones? It's daunting really. In looking at a rendering, we definitely liked all of our top drawers being the same height, so if you are thinking of varying the top drawer height, keep in mind that is where your eye notices the difference in drawer heights the most. (we're going with slab cabinetry, so the lines REALLY stick out, maybe they wouldn't as much with a different door style) In measuring some of my stuff, I was surprised to find out that I didn't need drawers to be as deep as I was originally imagining. But, that's because I'm not planning on stacking a lot of things inside of one another in the drawers...so mostly shallower drawers were needed. I wound up deciding on a deep drawer for my towels, dish clothes, etc...I had been thinking of a shallow drawer before for them, but decided that those can stack (and probably should) up and not be an issue. I have a lot of kitchen gadgets (a few sets of measuring spoons, a lot of turners, graters, microplanes, etc., and I hate that they are all crammed in a few deep in the narrow, shallow drawers that we have...so, with more shallow drawers, this should change so that they are spread out more and I'll be able to find what I want without rummaging. Truth be told, I probably need to get rid of some of my older stuff - some is from my "poor college student days", others are duplicates from when living in two different places and then finally getting to one...so, things will be going to Goodwill as I pack up the old kitchen...and I plan on having a box at the ready when I'm placing things in the new kitchen. I think that we are keeping our wide top drawers (33" and 36") as single drawers rather than dividing them up. I'm in a one-cook kitchen, so it's not highly likely that there will be much "move over" requests to get into a drawer. And I didn't like the idea of losing the storage inches of having smaller drawers particularly since we plan on having dividers in the drawers...this began to really eat into the usable space. So, that's something to consider as well....See MoreWARNING..Make sure you have those MICE under control!
Comments (9)I think I would rather deal with the snake than the mouse!! My horror story (that still haunts me to this day even though it occurred nearly 18 years ago - the last and only time we have had a mouse in the house) is as follows...I was peacefully sleeping at night with an arm over my head when I felt something tickling my arm near my head...I screamed and flung my arm to see a mouse flying across the room!! UGH...it still freaks me out! Needless to say, my ban on cats on the bed was lifted until we got rid of that little sucker ;-)...See Morelawn mower: leave tank nearly empty, totally empty or totally full
Comments (16)Just to be clear here, a fuel preservative won't do anything to prevent condensation buildup in a metal tank that isn't topped off. I always run lawnmowers, snoblowers &c dry at the end of the season, though I have read recommendations by some small engine mechanics that this can cause certain seals or gaskets in modern engines to dry out. They actually recommend _not_ leaving them dry for long periods. Ethanol laced fuel does have the characteristic of absorbing small amounts of water, to be burned. But it doesn't store as well and wreaks havoc with rubber parts. One trick that works slick, at the end of the season, is run a tank of Coleman fuel. It is basically a low octane gasoline with no additives and does not gum or turn to varnish. Too expensive to run on a regular basis, it is perfect for infrequently used equipment like emergency generators or folks too lazy to drain the tank at the end of the season....See More
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