there is a chance she will but a chance she will not climb. Usually if a climber is cut back seriously in a season 2-3 times, it discourages it from climbing. It is similar to weeds that you continue removing. At some point, they get the idea that they are not supposed to grow there. Well, if you continue cutting back a climber (sometimes only once is the key) it will get the idea, it is not to climb. But, I have many climbers that I now grow as rose bushes because I cut them back as soon as they threw long canes. I don't have room for 60 climbers, but I have room for about that many big bush roses. I do wish Jon of Wessex, England, would post here about the key to growing climbers as bushes. I had known this from a brother-in-law but he gave a very good reason as to why that is. I do wish I had saved it. My BIL grew many climbers and he had told me before he died how to keep them as bushes or to move them and continue to grow them as climbers by leaving 3 long canes on the move and cut the rest of the bush back by a third.

Okay, I'll give it a shot so you don't conclude you're talking to yourself...Always intrigued by descriptions & photos of this early 50's rose, found a grafted 2 gallon maybe 14 years ago at a nursery & scooped it up during a garden construction phase. (Mistake #1 - assume construction will go as planned & conclude as scheduled, followed by mistake #2 - collect plants in the interlude that will likely neither be planted nor potted on as anticipated due to mistake #1.) Repotted to a 5 gallon where it stayed for nearly a year. (Mistake #3 - neglect to routinely check root growth, leading to mistake #4 - confining a plant in an inadequate volume of soil.) Used to climbers that didn't grow much the first year, and lulled into complacency by its topside good health, didn't occur to me to check it's root growth till planting. Never seen such a case of thoroughly rootbound as that poor rose showed when slipped out of its pot. Did my best, (and the rose did too) from that point to make up for unintended neglect, but by the following Spring the scion perished & the rootstock ran rampant with glee, freed at last. Sadly, no actual growing experience with this rose besides committing root strangulation, perhaps I shouldn't be answering this at all! However, at the time the dearly departed originally followed me home, I'd a good guess of the mature size possibilites. Anticipated a minimum height of 10' & a maximum double that at 20', with a breadth of 3-10'. Keep in mind I wasn't planning on training & controlling it in any ongoing manner once it got up and running, but rather thought to let it loose in a half-willdling manner. There's currently a "sidetable" beside the reading chair of stacked books on various subjects, along with others taken from the bookcase months ago still randomly piled. Checking Coral Dawn in these references (as we did pre-web), find a general concensus among the 5 authors represented of 10-12' average height, with Taylor hedging at 8-12' & Nisbet avowing he'd not seen one taller than 10' in New England (with no mention of cane hardiness or Winter dieback as considerations there). None comment on width. All say vigorous, with several adding upright, suitable for pillar or trellis. No index entries for this rose in the books past 1972 publishing dates, though I did see it online as Climbing Coral Dawn (is there a bush version?) & never looked for that variance. Many more volumes on hand that could be checked, but I'll go with that random sample. Checking online, find 12x4-8' fairly common, with Rogue Valley using Ashdown's info (they were in South Carolina while in business, as you may remember) of 15-20' high. Heirloom's listing 12-18x6'. You have spoken to Heirloom regarding Coral Dawn's possible eventual stature in your location, haven't you? Their educated guess would surely be worth more than my guestimate based on the experiences of others, who may themselves never have actually grown CD, depending in turn on secondhand info. So my best guess is the 9' height of your arbor will present no vertical challenge to Coral Dawn & her controlled width will bulk to a minimum 2' on the arbor side. I'd plant the rose no closer than 2' to the support, probably more like 3-4', in case the rose decided to grow that 12'+ loaded, with a nice flowery edging below the rose & arbor. But then, I'd rather underestimate than be swamped by roses on either side eventually obscuring the passageway. Could always put a birdhouse atop the arch in the meantime. or suspend a hanging basket or light as spacefillers while the roses are growing up & out. Sorry for the rambling, the pollen's got my thoughts as moving targets, challenging to coherently catch. My 2 cents worth is probably not worth a penny. Does seem each plant's growth is highly site-specific, and we only find the answers to these questions through discovery. This post was edited by vasue on Tue, May 20, 14 at 11:17

I am not sure how they will respond to afternoon sun. The 5-6 hours should be enough for any rose, but not getting sun earlier would mean staying wet longer and that could impact they blackspot resistance. Most of my drifts get sun after 10 am all day and the one I have in 4 hours of sun get morning sun so their leaves dry early. Roses seem to prefer those 6 hours of sun early here. I have a climbing iceberg in 3-4 hours of morning sun and she does not defoliate without spray while another with afternoon sun does. All you can do is try it and see how it goes. Drifts are known for their resilience.

I had the misfortune to find out that the gypsy moth caterpillars like this type of rose. And didn't find out it was prone to caterpillars until this week. I managed to hand pick them off and put them in a plastic container filled with warm water and dish detergent soap. Then when finished I tossed water with them in it over on to the vacant lot that is all dirt and where the local grocery store once stood. I have found one on it today so pulled it off and pitched it over onto the same lot. When I asked about one of the garden centre employees what would be the best bet to use on them she said the BK one but since it is such a bad year this year for them everybody was buying it from them with result being they are out of stock on it and have no idea when they will be getting anymore in. Said there was the Safer bug spray too but were out of stock on it too. But hoped to get more in sometime this week. I only have the one for indoor plants. I also was talking to the lady whom I am friendly with as she and I at one time shared a flower garden out the front. Anyway she now has one out the back up against the fence and it was also that the two of us saw a clearwing come to her phlox!!!!!! Got pictures of it. What an fascinating cute thing it is!!!!! She said she just sprays her flowers and plants with garlic powder and water. And I have not seen any caterpillars on any of hers!!!! I came across a recipe online where one adds 2 cups of water and 2 tbsp of garlic powder. Mix it up and then spray on plants. If it rains will have to reapply it. Sooo how much do I use on each plant or do I mix up the above and spray it on all the leaves.?? Will it also recover from them. Here is a picture of it. Not sure if it would help wrapping the stem as they can still climb up the wall of the building. But maybe spraying it with that garlic solution might deter them.