Used at low rates, the 5-10-5 probably won't hurt anything, but it supplies about 12x more P than your plant needs in relation to it's N needs. Since N is the must used element, other nutrients are usually measured as a function of N. While going about the chore of growing, plants use about 6X more N than P, so I can't think of any container culture application where it would be better to use a fertilizer that supplies more P than N. That said, it's not going to kill your plants or cause great harm; it's just that there are better options. If you were referring to the 24-8-16 as a high N fertilizer ..... it really isn't. Remember, the % numbers mean nothing individually. If there was a fertilizer that was 48-16-32, it's not considered a high N fertilizer any more than 9-3-6. Yes, it has more N by weight than the 9-3-6, but both are 3:1:2 ratio fertilizers and contain the same amount of N. How this works: The instructions for mixing will direct you to use only about 1/5 the amount of the more concentrated 48-16-32 as the 9-3-6; so in the end, you're supplying the same strength solution, even though 1 fertilizer id many times 'stronger' than the other. The 3:1:2 ratio fertilizers work so well; because there is little excess in the soil. Let's think about what happens when you use your 5-10-5, with 12x more P than necessary. Let's say your plants are looking a little yellow & need fertilizer. You fertilize & all starts to look well, but soon, your plants are running out of N and yellowing again. Since there is still lots of P left in the soil, you fertilize. This supplies a little N (in relation to P) but it alsu supplies another BIG dose of excess P. Now you have LOTS more P in the soil than necessary. P raises pH AND competes with Fe (iron) and other micro-nutrients, the symptoms of which includes the yellowing that comes with deficiencies. As you add more fertilizer in the hope that the yellowing will be reversed, it gets worse instead. When you use a 3:1:2 ratio, the plant uses the nutrients evenly, so they are all becoming deficient at the same time. When you fertilize, you're not increasing a notable excess on ANY element, which is not the case as when using high-P formulations. If you have a plant that needs to have its vegetative growth slowed, simply switch to a 1:1:1 fertilizer or alternate its use the same 3:1:2 ratio you're using. You can also use 3:1:2 ratio fertilizers at low doses (to restrict N) and supplement the K (many use Pro-TeKt 0-0-3 for this). A summary: I use 3:1:2 ratio soluble fertilizers on EVERYTHING, unless I am intentionally trying to stress the plant by limiting an element (usually N), and I never intentionally apply a fertilizer that will supply an excess of one or more elements in relation to the other essential elements. Excesses are as bad as or sometimes worse than deficiencies. (Dr C Whitcomb et al) Al

I suspect you are overwatering the beans, which WILL make the leaves turn yellow. Eventually the plants will die. Water only when the soil is dry two knuckles deep, and then deep-water the plants. Let the soil tell you when to water -- the beans don't need a watering schedule. Don't fuss too much with them, just keep them weeded, and they ought to do just fine.

Mattbg, are the plants otherwise healthy except for the color? If so, they might just be a "sport" (a part of a plant that shows morphological differences from the rest of the plant. Sports may differ by foliage shape or color, flowers, or branch structure. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sport (botany)). In which case, take a look at this link for T&M, because they have a new variety they call "Sun Bright", which looks a lot like yours. Hope that is the case. Here is a link that might be useful: Thompson & Morgan Seed

not really, but I have the same question and had the same problem last year in my 2nd attempt I started my beans in pots and planted them out when they were 4-6 inches tall and had their first real leaves, that worked