taterville, Things are coming along very nicely. I bet when you were in school you were one of those students that always did your homework; I never did mine. lol Most of your measurements worked fine, but something went wrong with the measurement of point A. That's my fault, not yours; my instructions were not adequate for the task. As we go along, there will be times when you need to mark a place on the ground in a semi-permanent way. Any number of things can be used; stakes, tent pegs, or nails with a ribbon attached. Now let me revisit the location of point A. You will need to place a marker at point A that is at the bottom toe of the slope about mid way in the curved transition between the relative straight line of the toe running behind your house and the straight line of the toe running along the side of your house. Begin at point A and measure along a line parallel to the back of your house to a point that aligns with the back of your house, shown in my graphic as point B. Earlier you gave that distance as 4ft 11 inches. That may have been correct, but because we may now be starting from a new location for A, you will need to repeat this measurement. Now go back to point A and measure parallel to the side of your house to a point that aligns with the back corner of your house shown as point C. Think of the box defined by the the three points and the back corner of your house as a rectangle. It is the width and length of this rectangle we seek. You did not give a distance from point E to F and I assume that the slope is just too long and slick to make the measurement. That's OK, there are other ways to find the location of point F. I'll prepare some instructions on how to go about it. You are getting close to providing the data needed to produce a base map defining the terrain you have. It wont have the precision of that of a professional, but is certainly suitable for planning purposes. The precision can be improved as needed. Taking what can be used from your photos, the survey, and the measurements requested by yardvaark and myself, I have made a drawing. Contours shown are at 1 ft intervals. Scale, small squares equal 2ft. I will add to and make corrections as additional data comes in. Below is a thumbnail. The full sized drawing Is in the optional link. I would invite everyone to use any of the graphics I provide to convey your ideas for the site. Here is a link that might be useful:

There was a recent thread from someone with a similar situation, and I think it was also in southern CA. You might want to search the forums first for plantings on slopes, also post in your regional forum. Books from the library that focus on gardening in your region may give you some ideas of possible "looks" and what plants to use to achieve them. Once you have a list of plants that will do well in your area, you can research them further. Finding pictures to post might be more time consuming than can be expected from forum members. You might also want to lurk on the New to Gardening, Perennial, and Shrub forums to learn some basics. Are you going to design this planting yourself? If so, you'll need to do a lot of research and planning to come up with a presentable design. Expect to spend six months to a year studying the plants that you might use, looking at other designers' work for ideas, learning some basics. If you don't care if it looks fabulous and just want some plants to hold the slope, the forums mention above will provide some plant suggestions, and you can charge ahead. If you need help, designers charge anywhere from about $80 to $125 per hour, probably at the high end or more in your area. It can take a couple of hours just to talk figure out what you want and measure the area in question, and design time would be on top of that, how much depends on the complexity of the design. Search for threads on working with a designer to get a feel for what to expect. If you plan on hiring out the actual preparation and planting, landscape contractors can give you a quote based on a detailed drawing and plant list. Some landscape installers also design, but be sure to ask to see a portfolio of installed jobs to see if you like their work. Not all are trained or experienced enough in design to do more than a ho-hum planting. Some are very good. It's impossible to guess what it might cost, even if you gave the dimensions of the area to be planted, because the type of plants selected, quality of other materials used, and density and complexity of the planting will all affect the cost. An experienced landscape designer or architect can work within a budget you set for them, or tell you if you are being realistic in the amount you want to spend. Any project can be scaled back with more common plants, smaller size at planting, etc. Expect to pay a designer for their time on a consultation, usually one hour, which is spent (by both parties) finding out if your project and their skills are a good fit, whether you can afford a full design or whether an hourly consultation is possible instead, and whether you are on the same page, aesthetically.

Hi everyone! Regardeng BLACKBERRIES, we, on the opposie side of the pool, have the same problems of OVERWINTERING the canes and the flower buds. Admittedly I yet have no own experience as I got interested in blackberries only this fall when discovered the existance of the new thornles and prolific varieties. So I read all that was worth reading in the Russian and US internet, especially the rather high-profile specialised forums of our blackberry enthusiasts.. I discovered that throughout Russia and Kazakhstan which both have areas with very serious frosts blackberry growing in those is nevertheless quite successful. Maybe someone here would benefit from their experience same as e.g. you grow plums of Russian origin such as ptitsin and fofanoff. Apparently Blackberries can bring huge yealds in climates with very low winter temps, even downing to -40C for rather ptolonged periods. The TECHNIQUE below allows overwintering without much problem. Plus some easy principles to follow. 1. All blackberries need to be laid down and covered for the winter, preferably after the first frost when the land is frozen. To ensure that this task is easy and hassle free: 2. Choose thornless varieties only. Those with thorns are said to be hell to lay and cover. 3. In early summer watch for the new canes (primocanes) to emerge. As soon as a shoot reaches 15-20cm carefully bend it 90 degrees and secure with a metal peg. When the cane grows another 40-60cm, secure it parallel to the ground with yet another peg. After it reaches 1 m let it grow as it will but better tie to the lowest string of the trellis Which gets them out of the way. Do not tip the ends as this would increase the leaf mass. Do the bending for all the emerging primocanes. 4. In autumn at the time of first frosts when all the fruiting canes have long been cut down lay the primocanes in lines stretched along one side of the trellis. Peg them to the ground, cover with two layers of 60g/m2 thick white non-woven fabric and secure all sides to the ground with no holes. This is said to help greatly even if serious frosts come before the snow. In milder and wetter climates they also put a plastic film layer on top of the fabric, leaving however the end bits open so there is always air circulation. The advice here is to experiment as all natural circumstaces differ. 5. Take off the cover layers gradually, and completely only after all danger of frost is over. By then the canes are likely to bear some yourg leaves and side shoots, but this is ok. Raise them carefully as the canes of come varieties are brittle, and tie to the trellis. 5. Winer frosts may not be a problem for blackberries, but summers need to be warm or hot. The shorter and milder/cooler the summers, the earlier fruiting varieties should be chosen. 6. Floricane varieties like PA Freedom in cooler and shorter summer climates may very sucessfully fruit if treated in the same way as other primocanes, i.e. as above, in a two-year culture. They would be one of the earliest to perform. If you have any questions do feel free to write me, I will try to help with more information. cathpetro at gmail dot com.

Bahia - gosh - didn't mean to slight you; hadn't seen your reply while writing mine (must have started mine, taken a phone call and gone back to it). I was so not speaking to your choices. We're our own worst critics and after I linked the daffodils I had the thought that 'gee, everyone's going to think I'm some little old lady gardener - just add some petunias and they'll write me off.' My own judgement - no one elses. Poked fun at myself posting daffs so folks would know I 'get' it (I like em in pots and on hillsides, agree hard to work into a home garden without it looking dated - it's partially why I like that kedron one - easier to work it in). I've been going through old gardening and design books as I plan new hardscape for the front and in looking at them I've been so aware of how quickly gardens can look dated. Modular walls fit my budget, but I know within 6 years they'll be passe and for me (and my budget) this hardscape is once. For the books that aren't that old - seems like we've gone for more space between plants and more large rocks (simplistic definition). Anyhoo, so I'm playing with the dated concept and think a dated look for most of us is about the overall plan of how plants are put together more than the plants themselves. For a green backdrop - I'd use what fits the bill AND do something interesting in a bed in front of it or add a trio of large pots with great interest in front of it - love green privacy walls but I'm not all that fussy about how they're attained. Bahia - you do wonderful work (I'd looked at your site) and I don't doubt folks pay you to do something gorgeous plus contemporary. I'm always sending folks to UCDavis for the veg gardening info - will check out their top ten. Here is a link that might be useful: mists and enchantments my blog