We have cork (glue down tiles) in our kitchen and love them and haven't had any issues for over 8 yrs. However, when we were redoing our bathroom and I asked about cork for the bathroom, I was told it wasn't a good choice for bathrooms because of water getting under the tiles. Not sure if this was the truth or not, but you might want to investigate before committing.

WE cork said that did they? Hmmmm. Someone on the phone didn't know their product. Sorry but the floating floor is OUT for a full bathroom. Work with a glue down cork tile and you are fine. Make sure you SEAL the floor prior to use. A glue down cork tile (100% cork - no fibre board) is water proof. The SEAMS are the weak link. To deal with this, you apply 2 coats of a water based polyurethane over the whole cork floor once installed. Allow to cure (can be as little as 5 days or as long as 10 days). NOW you have a BATHROOM floor. I'm sorry but the floating WE floors have a 7 year lifespan in a full bathroom. And I know this because I've helped WE and Wicander clients replace their 5 - 7 year old floating floors that had been installed in full baths. The HUMIDITY thrown off by the shower KILLS the fibre board in the middle of the floating floor planks. It takes about 5 years of showers to do this...but once it happens there is NO going back. The floor starts to feel "soggy" and "squishy" (the description often used by my clients who are upset that Torlys, Wicanders, WE Cork, APC cork, etc allowed them to install in bathrooms). Once that happens you have about 1- 2 years before your foot pushes through the mush (it is a really unpleasant thing I've been told). The glue down tile is fine. A SKILLED cork flooring installer will deal with the tile/cork interface. The caulking must come AFTER the floor is sealed because polyurethanes do NOT grab caulking...but caulking will grab polyurethane. Please stick with glue down. Please.

Dottie - I could not have done this without an educated designer - it's not just about the design choices although I would never have come up with design choices as my brain isn't hardwired in those kinds of visually imaginative ways. I can appreciate things but I don't know how to pull them together and I wouldn't have the ability to figure out where to even start in terms of the sea of vendors. I am good about researching appliances and functions but get lost in the sea of visual possibilities :-) And I can't even imagine dealing with codes and such since Los Angeles is code crazy - I wanted to move some floor electrical outlets up a bit from the floor as I found it difficult to reach them when I had some hip issues so I was thinking about for the future - I was told that if I move a plug, the whole thing has to be rewired back to the panel box. And the darn kitchen sink has to be approved by the UL LOL - who would think a kitchen sink could be dangerous.

Hi robin, You are welcome to float the WISE cork flooring. The issue with the centre board (traditionally High Density Fibreboard = HDF) is not an issue with WISE. The WISE has a mineral core. This makes it truly water proof. You will need to have a FLAT subfloor. The rigid core makes the click system brittle. And bit of 'wonky' movement in the subfloor could mean the breakage of the edges is possible. I'm a traditionalist. I prefer the glue down product. With a little bit of subfloor prep (same prep as the floating type) you can glue down a cork tile floor quite easily. You would required 2 packages of 4mm or 6mm cork glue down tiles from iCork Floor LLC (roughly 40sf). You can purchase a quart of Roberts water based contact cement adhesive (Low or no-VOC) and a quart of Loba 2K Supra AT (from iCork) to finish the installation.