That's Rhus lancea you have there. Note the leaves have 3 leaflets. Listed as an invasive alien in adjacent Arizona and California, and also produces nasty allergenic pollen. So might not be a great loss if it does die! Resin

As soon as I saw the wrinkled, stunted leaves in the first photo, I thought you were dealing with herbicide damage. In my experience, if I have to stand and wonder and check the reference materials, it hasn't turned out to be RRD. Once you've seen RRD in person, you'll never mistake it for anything else. When you use Round-Up in your beds around your roses, keep the pressure in your sprayer REALLY low ... just a few pumps -- only enough to get the spray out the end of the nozzle. This forms a very coarse spray which is much less likely to drift. Put your nozzle directly over the weed, spray a teeny spray, and hope you didn't get any chemical anywhere else. When I'm spraying in my beds, I wear flip flops so my feet can instantly feel if I have drift. Last suggestion, do it in the early morning before the breezes come up. If the tree leaves are blowing, put your sprayer away. If the weeds are grasses, you can use a selective herbicide called Ornamec. It is labeled to be used over the top of most broadleaf crops ... including roses. It takes up to two weeks to work, but it will kill Bermuda and crabgrass without harming your roses. (Don't use Ornamec near daylilies.) This should help you get most of the weeds in your beds. Using herbicide in such a surgical way has the added benefit of not stirring up the soil and exposing more weed seeds that would sprout and perpetuate the problem. You still have to pull any weeds that are under or in contact with your roses. Connie

Hmmm... what has your watering schedule been like? The first thing that comes to mind is possibly over / under watering due to the droopiness of the leaves but it is odd that the other branches are fine. In your second picture, that leaf that's curled with the black part on it almost makes me think it's got too much water but it's hard to say for sure so that's why I ask. Good drainage? Is there anything that could be reflecting heat on that branch - the windows? Have you applied any fertilizer or pesticides? Hard to see in the pics but are the black specks on the inflo just where flowers fell off or have you been dropping buds?

Do you live in a large city? While a 2-week wait (or longer) for the soil to dry down is fairly common, commonality doesn't mean the plants that grow in it are going to show appreciation. Let's work on that point, and I have some other ideas that will allow you to make adjustments that might fix whatever is going on. That you can go long intervals between waterings w/o under-watering means there is an excess of water in the grow medium for at least a week after a thorough watering and perhaps longer. I know you've been at GW for awhile now, so you've probably read my tips on how to significantly reduce the amount of excess water your medium can hold. I'll outline them in case you're already familiar. * You can use items in the pot bottom as ballast to displace a large fraction of the grow medium that would otherwise be filled with excess water. * If the pot is of manageable size, moving it downward then sharply upward while holding the pot over the sink can remove ALL excess water from the pot. * You can tip the pot when done watering, which also removes a good measure of excess water. * You can use a wick through the side of the pot exactly where the sidewall meets the bottom (that's the best spot) or through the drain hole. Compare B to A to see what tipping your pots gains you; and compare E to A to see what a wick can do. Figure D is one way of using an item as ballast, but there are other set-ups. Sometimes, when the bark is too large, you'll get stratification where the peat migrates to the bottom of the soil column (causing it to remain wet for long periods) while all the bark is at the top of the soil column; but through the tell, it would seem you'd be picking up on that. Still, it's worth investigating when you repot. Wet soil and organic forms of N can combine to cause ammonium toxicity, and your fertilizer derives all of its N from urea. This is a very common issue but one seldom diagnosed. Your fertilizer doesn't contain Ca or Mg. Garden lime serves as not only a pH adjuster, but as a source of Ca and Mg as well. The magnesium fraction of garden lime is more than 125X more soluble in water than the calcium carbonate it contains, so it's not uncommon for a planting to need a Mg boost after a couple of years, especially when using a fertilizer that contains no Mg. I used to use and recommend MG 12-4-8 or MG 24-8-16 because I hadn't yet found Foliage-Pro 9-3-6. It has ALL nutrients essential to normal growth, and serves admirably as a complete single source nutrition package. I use it for all plants except tomato and hibiscus. For those, I still use it, but I increase the amount of K it contains for hibiscus and tomato by adding ProTeKt 0-0-3, which also contains silicon, which I have found makes a big difference in that it helps plants better tolerate heat/cold, too wet/too dry, insect herbivory and disease pathogens. You might want to try the Foliage-Pro 9-3-6. In the meanwhile, you can try adding a dose of Epsom salts with a solution strength equal to 1/4 level tsp/gal. I almost never recommend dosing with anything aimed at providing a single nutrient, but in this case there is so little probability of a negative result it seems reasonable. Finally, the damage is concentrated in areas of the leaf where the variegation is lightest. If these plants get much foll sun, it could be sunburn. The pigment, chlorophyll, actually protects the leaf's photosynthesizing apparatus from solar overload. Leaf tissues with little to no chlorophyll are much more sun-sensitive than their greener neighbors. Al