" but since we are in a drought here, we only water for 2 or 3 minutes every few days." This type of watering routine will keep barely anything other than the most drought tolerant species alive! With an automatic sprinkler system, you are losing a good portion of the water emitted to evaporation, as much as 50%......and it really doesn't matter what time of day the system turns on. And with a big, leafy plant like the Strelitzia, you can bet 90% of the of water NOT lost to evaporation is not hitting the root system - water just on the leaves is not a viable substitute for that. In short, your watering routine is likely not delivering anything of value to the plant in terms of needed moisture. Reprogram your sprinkler system so that the water comes on less frequently but for a longer duration. Can't tell you exactly how long - you will have to do some testing to determine a correct interval, but you want any irrigation water to penetrate as deeply into the soil profile as possible, at least 6-8", more if possible. Or use the hose on a slow trickle left in place at the base of the plant. Again, the length of time will be determined by how well and how fast the water percolates through the soil. And once a week should be more than adequate for any plant well established in the landscape, perhaps less often for very drought tolerant species.. For a state that is suffering from an extended drought situation, I am amazed at how inefficient and wasteful most CA watering practices are! I am not an irrigation contractor but I am a landscape designer and certified horticulturist and DO know how plants should be watered and I could make a fortune redesigning CA irrigation systems to deliver water more efficiently and with less waste. Pop-up sprinkler systems are fine for lawns (provided they are programmed correctly.......and few are) but they are a waste of time, money and a valuable and precious natural resource when used for regular landscape plantings. Investigate converting your system to a drip or low emission system for all the landscape plantings. And remember that low and slow or less frequent but longer watering periods will provide much better results.

My backyard is shielded by many tall overhead trees that keeps most of my backyard shaded all day long. So when you factor in all of the rain we get (along with plenty of good drainage), we have moss growing all over the place; which includes the trunks of my ornamental trees. The green color is just harmless moss that grew on the trunks back at the greenhouses. It will go away all on its own. Especially since Ikea's only been giving them little "sips" of neglectful underwaterings. No wonder they're having leaf problems. On a side note; this year, I've bought myself a weeding tool to rip up these unsightly weeds by their roots. I've been going thru my yard weeding out any that I can find so that the mosses can grow better. Since it looks more appealing, and it's much easier to deal with than trying to grow grass there. Plus, the moss is so much softer to walk on.

Thank you for your reply. If you click on the picture, you can see that there is plenty of light. The leaves are not yellow either. Only the really old leaves are yellow. They have turned brown on the edges. They are wilty and not crispy. So I had smaller pots for the plants and recently switched to a lot bigger ones with obviously a lot more soil but i continued to water same amount as before. I don’t think I was watering enough as most of the soil would be dry (since now there was so much more soil). Because if this, I felt the soil would dry out really quickly too. Therefore, I started watering more and have noticed the stems breaking. I‘ve also noticed that when a new leaf is about to grow, the stems break from the spot where the new leaf comes out from. I’m not sure if this is the reason??

Hi, Amanda. Because of the sudden reduction in the amount of water your plant will actually need, maintaining appropriate moisture levels has just been moved to the forefront in terms of criticality. The easiest way and arguably the best way to monitor moisture levels deep in the pot, where it counts most is by using a wooden 'tell', which can be very easily made from a 1/4 or 5/16" wooden dowel rod. Using a 'tell' Over-watering saps vitality and is one of the most common plant assassins, so learning to avoid it is worth the small effort. Plants make and store their own energy source – photosynthate - (sugar/glucose). Functioning roots need energy to drive their metabolic processes, and in order to get it, they use oxygen to burn (oxidize) their food. From this, we can see that terrestrial plants need plenty of air (oxygen) in the soil to drive root function. Many off-the-shelf soils hold too much water and not enough air to support the kind of root health most growers would like to see; and, a healthy root system is a prerequisite to a healthy plant. Watering in small sips leads to avoid over-watering leads to a residual build-up of dissolved solids (salts) in the soil from tapwater and fertilizer solutions, which limits a plant's ability to absorb water – so watering in sips simply moves us to the other horn of a dilemma. It creates another problem that requires resolution. Better, would be to simply adopt a soil that drains well enough to allow watering to beyond the saturation point, so we're flushing the soil of accumulating dissolved solids whenever we water; this, w/o the plant being forced to pay a tax in the form of reduced vitality, due to prolong periods of soil saturation. Sometimes, though, that's not a course we can immediately steer, which makes controlling how often we water a very important factor. In many cases, we can judge whether or not a planting needs watering by hefting the pot. This is especially true if the pot is made from light material, like plastic, but doesn't work (as) well when the pot is made from heavier material, like clay, or when the size/weight of the pot precludes grabbing it with one hand to judge its weight and gauge the need for water. Fingers stuck an inch or two into the soil work ok for shallow pots, but not for deep pots. Deep pots might have 3 or more inches of soil that feels totally dry, while the lower several inches of the soil is 100% saturated. Obviously, the lack of oxygen in the root zone situation can wreak havoc with root health and cause the loss of a very notable measure of your plant's potential. Inexpensive watering meters don't even measure moisture levels, they measure electrical conductivity. Clean the tip and insert it into a cup of distilled water and witness the fact it reads 'DRY'. One of the most reliable methods of checking a planting's need for water is using a 'tell'. You can use a bamboo skewer in a pinch, but a wooden dowel rod of about 5/16” (75-85mm) would work better. They usually come 48” (120cm) long and can usually be cut in half and serve as a pair. Sharpen all 4 ends in a pencil sharpener and slightly blunt the tip so it's about the diameter of the head on a straight pin. Push the wooden tell deep into the soil. Don't worry, it won't harm the root system. If the plant is quite root-bound, you might need to try several places until you find one where you can push it all the way to the pot's bottom. Leave it a few seconds, then withdraw it and inspect the tip for moisture. For most plantings, withhold water until the tell comes out dry or nearly so. If you see signs of wilting, adjust the interval between waterings so drought stress isn't a recurring issue. Are you left with any additional questions or concerns? Al