Hello azee_2009, OK I originally thought it was going to be a rooftop greenhouse, but after rereading your second post I wasn't sure anymore. As far as the construction I used to build mine, it could be applied to a rooftop situation. By just building a sturdy base for the electrical conduit posts/poles. Similar to the baseboards I made for mine. The weight of it will keep it in place. The poles for my greenhouse only go down in the ground about 8-10 inches, and there is no cement holding them down (just the weight of the greenhouse structure itself). I just posted the link/information to give you some ideas. That greenhouse looks much nicer than the one I built. Although much more expensive too. Not including the subterranean system, and the hydro systems inside, I built my whole 10 by 20 foot greenhouse for about $800. Ya, heat will be challenging. Our outside temp today was about 92 degrees, but the temp inside the greenhouse was 108 degrees. When the temps here reach the 120 mark, greenhouse temps would likely be around 140-150 if I didn't have a multi tiered cooling plan. Cross ventilation is great in some circumstances, but it wont help much at all to blow 120 degree air on your plants when it gets hot. Given the best circumstances, swamp coolers may bring the temps down about 20 degrees. But if humidity isn't carefully controlled, they may only provide a difference of between 5 and 10 degrees at most of cooling effect by themselves. Just to clarify, when I mention high humidity, I mean in the greenhouse. That will depend a lot on temperature inside the greenhouse, water vapor given off from the hydroponic systems inside. Not to mention the biggest factor, how many plants your growing, and how big they are. Plants breath out water vapor (called transpiration). The water vapor (relative humidity) in the greenhouse will get higher and higher unless it's ventilated. But ventilating a cooler greenhouse with the (hot) dry outside air will only heat up the inside of your greenhouse. I have searched the web a lot & every where i have read that Double Poly Sheet that makes air pockets between them retain heat within the greenhouse & reduce heating costs about 50% compared to single poly coverings. So how would i be able to use it. As i have to fight against high temperatures. The air pocket in-bitween the two layers of poly is an insulation pocket. Air pockets are the best insulation there is. Insulation will protect against heat just as easy as it does against cold. If your greenhouse is cooler than it is outside, the insulation (air pocket) will help keep your expensive cool air inside the greenhouse stay cooler longer. If you have no way to cool the inside of the greenhouse, then it wont help much. The air pocket is just insulation, not a cooling or heating layer. It just helps block the heat transfer from one side to the other. Blocks heat from getting out during winter, and blocks against heat from getting in during summer. The 4-5 inch's between both layers you describe should be plenty. Typically it's only about one inch between layers. Though I would expect that you will still get much better results with a air blower between the two layers. The reason is if you blew the cooler air in between the layers, it won't give the air pocket a chance to heat up. Thus keep the heat transfer between the inside, and outside layers to a minimum. I want to know the link & name of software you are using to create 3D images. I want to download it to make someone understand what i mean. I use a free program called Google SketchUp. They have a pro version you can pay for, but I've always used the free version, and like it very much. I save all my drawings into a folder so I can expand on them later without starting over. Before you post your drawings, you'll need to remember to export and save it as a 2D image. Otherwise it wont be in jpg. format, and people that don't have Google Sketchup wont be able to view it. Before I built my greenhouse, I did a lot research online to figure out what would work the best for me, as well as my budget. Here are a bunch of the links I have got bookmarked from those searches. I know it's a lot to read over, and it's been a long time sense I looked through it myself. But a lot of it is in lists of topics. I just read through what was of interest to me. Arched Greenhouse PRESENTATIONS REFERENCE SOURCES Horticultural Engineering Greenhouse Energy Cost Reduction Strategies POLYTHENE GREENHOUSE FILM FACTS Chapter 11- Greenhouse Site Selection Chapter 12- Greenhouse Structures Chapter 13- Greenhouse Control Systems Chapter 14- Greenhouse Energy & Resource Alternatives "Greening" the Greenhouse Greenhouse Glazing Greenhouse Energy Conservation Strategies Greenhouse Energy Conservation Strategies: Temperature and Scheduling Managing Greenhouse Temperature

I'd probably try making a wooden cornice,or frame,for the window you want the awning on,and just staple hemmed fabric to it.I've seen very nice window treatments using old shutters used like awnings,too,that might fit your theme .You can probably find rub on paintings of chefs for your cabinet doors, or just make a simple stencil with a coloring book type picture. Here is a link that might be useful: window treatments ideas

For an insurance claim, you usually have up to 2 years to report any additional damage found as a cause of the initial claim, without paying an additional deductible, but your policy may be different. Get a reputable contractor (preferably 2 or 3), along with YOUR insurance adjuster, and the roofing company adjuster to take a look and determine the best course of action. I agree completely with the photos-of damage, during repair process, and after repairs are completed. Keep a copy for yourself-hold on to them for a minimum of 2 years, possibly longer, if you should decide to sell the house, you have proof that the repairs were done correctly and to code.

Sometimes I agree that real and faux marble shouldn't be paired but I really like the tones in your two pictured samples. I think you're right that stark white isn't great and that some tonal variation would be. I think either of those woild be pretty. If you're going to use the marbles, I might get more sample blocks, just to make sure the pattern/effect isn't too dizzying when repeated. There was a thread about London Sky ( faux marble) quartz started a couple years ago, in which people showed their real marble backsplashes with it. That might give you some idea if you hate or like the pairing. Grays will have different undertones - not all are greenish. Your wall looks like more of a purple undertone on my screen so if you're thinking gray, you do need to work with that wall. But a light gray, maybe with a bit of texture and/or color variation in the tile, as your marble has, could be pretty. Look at Tilebar, if you haven't, even just for inspiration. Strictly for example, this tile is Montaug Fog, from thst website. This is what I mean by variation and your samples have it. Even if you move to gray, I'd be looking for something besides a flat or strictly one color tile. Love your kitchen so far!