How to Set a 250 Pound Statue on Top of a Raised Bed?
westes Zone 9b California SF Bay
3 years ago
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Sammy
3 years agolittlebug zone 5 Missouri
3 years agoRelated Discussions
Raised Beds for Vegetable Garden
Comments (5)Our club is considering planting a vegetable garden and donating the food to the local food pantry. Very cool. I was going to use raised beds but no more than 6 inches high as it gets very hot and dry in our area in the middle of the summer and so it might be too hard to keep them from drying out. The deeper the beds are the less often they need to be watered. Water in the top 2-3 inches will dry from evaporation, but below that it won't so it only goes dry as plants use it unless there is an extreme drought in which case it may dry down further. How big a garden would be sufficient to donate, initially, a few hundred pounds of produce. Yikes, I dunno as I never have weighed things. A few hundred pounds sounds like a a lot, but a tomato will weigh much more than a pepper. Rather than worry about how much you have to donate, why not focus instead on the area you and your club can actually handle attending to? Secondly, does anyone find it easier to build the beds first and then dig and amend the soil inside the box, or till the whole area first and then place the boxes, adding more amendments on top of the tilled soil. We have heavy clay. Save yourself a lot of work and don't dig the ground at all. 6" of good growing depth is enough for all the plants you mentioned. They will grow deeper if they wish. You really don't need to do anything at all to the ground under the beds. I have heavy clay and my beds are 8" framed with around 6" of growing depth over the clay. Clay is actually really good for growing things provided it doesn't get compacted or dry out to the point it becomes brick like. Under 6" of growing beds that aren't walked on this won't happen. Lastly, how easy is it to use a raised bed without borders, just mounded soil. Does the bed decrease in size over the summer with soil running off This depends entirely on the rain run off. If the garden is in an area with significant run off you want to frame the beds to prevent run off. If run off isn't a major issue you can just mound the soil and have no frames....See MoreRaised Bed Question
Comments (22)Man! Do I ever hear you about the short grow season this year!! This is my first year with raised beds, but I'm hoping to talk my hubby into some kind of cold frame soon. Since it sounds like our goals are similar, I will say that I put my frames on a study piece of cardboard. It keeps the beds a bit warmer and it helped me keep the beds weed free. Let me link you pic at the bottom. My beds are kind of weenie beds, but, hey, I'm new at this. I don't want you to get angry and think I'm ignoring you, but those reasons you listed are all the reasons behind square foot gardening. I know you said you don't want to use sfg (which is also a version of french intensive), but you could easily take the things you like about it and ignore the stuff you dislike (which is? I'm confused about that part.) As far as the cost is concerned, it doesn't need to be that big of a deal. I made my raised beds myself out of lumber a friend was tossing out, and I'm a little old lady. If I can do it, I'm not sure who couldn't do it,. I've made alot of my own compost, but I've met folks who got it from farms for free, especially since you can age it for a few months in your own cozy beds. I'm really glad I used the vermiculite, but to each his own. I probably wouldn't use peat moss again because it's getting pricey, but if you can afford it, you can get this substitute they make out of coconut fairly inexpensively that I hear is really cool to use. Good luck to you! I hope it all works out. Link us some pics as you go through this. Grace, Carolyn P....See MoreUCG Ratio In New Raised Beds
Comments (24)About 92 percent mineral soil and about 8 percent organic matter does not mean exactly, that is a rough ratio to shoot for. Most soil scientists would say that 5 percent OM is adequate, but I have found over the years that plants simply grow better when the OM is in the 8 percent range. In addition to a soil test from a reputable lab that tells you what the soils pH and major nutrient levels are34 maybe these simple soil tests will be of some help, 1) Soil test for organic matter. From that soil sample put enough of the rest to make a 4 inch level in a clear 1 quart jar, with a tight fitting lid. Fill that jar with water and replace the lid, tightly. Shake the jar vigorously and then let it stand for 24 hours. Your soil will settle out according to soil particle size and weight. For example, a good loam will have about 1-3/4 inch (about 45%) of sand on the bottom. about 1 inch (about 25%) of silt next, about 1 inch (25%) of clay above that, and about 1/4 inch (about 5%) of organic matter on the top. 2) Drainage. Dig a hole 1 foot square and 1 foot deep and fill that with water. After that water drains away refill the hole with more water and time how long it takes that to drain away. Anything less than 2 hours and your soil drainsâ too quickly and needs more organic matter to slow that drainage down. Anything over 6 hours and the soil drains too slowly and needs lots of organic matter to speed it up. 3) Tilth. Take a handful of your slightly damp soil and squeeze it tightly. When the pressure is released the soil should hold together in that clump, but when poked with a finger that clump should fall apart. 4) Smell. What does your soil smell like? A pleasant, rich earthy odor? Putrid, offensive, repugnant odor? The more organic matter in your soil the more active the soil bacteria will be and the nicer your soil will smell. 5) Life. How many earthworms per shovel full were there? 5 or more indicates a pretty healthy soil. Fewer than 5, according to the Natural Resources Conservation Service, indicates a soil that is not healthy....See MorePictures of Raised beds
Comments (15)Well I've kind of had a change of direction. I'm thinking that I'll save some money and just use 2x6 pine with some linseed oil on it. If I can get a couple years out of it then it's more than worth the effort considering it's 1/5th the cost of cedar. And trust me..I know all about lumber yards...woodworking is my other hobby besides gardening. Here in my area, most places do not carry cedar. The Home Depot here doesn't even carry it, just Lowes. One of my regular lumber suppliers carrys it in 4/4 rough, which is around an inch thick, but wants almost $3 a board foot which would make a 10 ft long board more expensive than Lowes. I only wished I lived in the Pacific Northwest where I could get cedar reasonably, and abundantly. Everywhere I highlighted on the picture I drew gets full sun most of the day. I would take Granny's suggestion, however I have no idea what I would plant in all that space! I think I'm going to change my construction method to one I saw online where they finger joint the end boards and then drive rebar down through drilled holes to hold it all together. You can see pictures of this method at www.naturalyards.com. Is it as pretty as the copper corner caps? No..it's not, but it's cheaper, which will allow more money for more and varied seeds. I didn't save any seeds from last year, so I'm getting a big order ready once I finalize what I'm going to plant....See MoreOne Devoted Dame
3 years agowestes Zone 9b California SF Bay
3 years agowestes Zone 9b California SF Bay
3 years agolast modified: 3 years agowestes Zone 9b California SF Bay
3 years agowestes Zone 9b California SF Bay
3 years agoYardvaark
3 years agolast modified: 3 years agoOne Devoted Dame
3 years agoparty_music50
3 years agoSeabornman
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