Thanks, Jay. I appreciate it that you found time during your planting busy season to come here and look at this specific thread. Y'all, I'm the one who emailed Jay an urgent "SOS" for help because I wanted to see if he could find something on this plant that the rest of us were missing. I felt like if we were wrong about TSWV, Jay would be the one to correct us and set us on the right path.....or (grinning) send us on a wild goose chase seeking another answer. I'd like to emphasize again to everyone that diagnosis of tomato disease is very tricky because many diseases share common symptoms. One of the main symptons they share is foliar leaf spots in shade of black, blackish-purple, brownish-purple, brown, tan and yellow. Often, it is the shape or size of the spots that help us narrow down the problem from many possibilities to a couple of possibilities or even to one definitive answer. Often, too, the timing of the disease helps with a diagnosis because there are some bacterial issues that are much more common in spring's cooler temperatures and others that are much more common in June or July's heat. When you see something like Chandra is seeing on his plants, sometimes you have to be patient and let the more experienced growers consult their memories, their disease books, various disease diagnostic websites, one another and maybe even their own notes from previous years to remind themselves of what they "usually" see at this time of year. Even then, none of us can guarantee we are right when we attempt to diagnose from a photo---all we're doing is offering opinions on what we think we're seeing in the photo. Just a reminder to all: tomato diseases often are spread from plant to plant or from the soil or mulch to the plant by water spashing disease microorganisms up onto plant foliage. Keeping water off your plants as much as possible greatly reduces diseases linked to fungi and bacteria that spread in this manner. Mulching heavily puts a barrier between soil-borne microorganisms and your plants. Watering only with soaker hoses or drip irrigation help keep moisture off your foliage. Both will help combat foliar disease. However, you generally cannot avoid having something show up on your plants because that is the nature of tomato plants---their foliage gets every disease that comes along. Remember too that it often is our own hands that spread disease from plant to plant. If you have disease symptoms on any plant, wash your hands after you touch that plant and before you touch another plant in the same family. In the case of tomato plants, related plants are potatoes, peppers and eggplant, all of which 'share' some of the same diseases at times. You don't want for your hands or tools to spead disease around your garden. When you have a viral disease, often insects help spread them so once you have a diagnosis you have to focus on pest control to keep the pests from spreading the disease. The method you use would depend on the pest you're fighting. Both Jay and I have used a garlic-based insect repellent with some success in some instances. The one I have is, I think, the same one Jay has used in the past and it is called "Garlic Barrier". I find it at my local feed store/farm supply store (Tractor Supply Company). While using a garlic barrier spray will not prevent all insects, it often will deter them from hanging around. Many of them don't like it and will move on some place 'garlic-free' if you are using it regularly. I've linked Garlic Barrier below so you can see what the bottle looks like. It is one of the few organic products I can find in local stores here and do not have to order online, so I think it likely you can find it in at least some areas stores as well. Here is a link that might be useful: Garlic Barrier Bottle Looks Like This

IMO it's either fusarium or verticillium wilt. Fairly common and most of us have had it. The bad news is that yes, it does move fairly quickly up the plant. You might be able to stop it by removing the affected foilage and spraying with a fungicide like Daconil. Sometimes it stops and sometimes it doesn't. If you can save most of the plant, the tomatoes should be ok. Like you said, they don't appear to be affected. The little tomatoes that don't appear to be growing is just normal, the plant sometimes aborts them with or without wilt. Not every blossom becomes a tomato.

If you don't remove the infected foliage from the plant and dispose of it away from the garden the fungus just continues to spread even with fungicide treatment. So the first rule of thumb is to never leave damaged foliage such as that on the plant. Then use your fungicide sprays. Dave

Thanks for the advice. This is rather a late update but I just wanted to say that soon after I posted this, I potted the tomato in a large container and kept it outside on my apt balcony. The white spots quickly went away on their own. I guess it just needed sunshine and better air circulation!