Help identifying basement rough in pipes
Vince Leo
3 years ago
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Comments (13)
GN Builders L.L.C
3 years agogreg_2015
3 years agoRelated Discussions
help basement rough in #2. pics included
Comments (5)Your overall layout and use of fittings is very good and you will not require any additional venting. Now we need to go back and tweak it up a bit so you have no problem with the inspector. In regards to your lavatory riser size, many local codes require all piping under a slab to be a minimum of 2" so I would suggest you keep the 2" riser and place a 2" 1/4bend on top. You would then install a 2" x 1-1/2" bushing and stub out a 1-1/2" waste arm out to the trap adapter. Understandably this is a dry fit and your vertical risers may be a bit off vertical, but when you finally glue them up you must use a level and make sure they are straight vertical and not slightly angled. Code requires that we must use primer on all PVC joints prior to gluing. Use the primer with the purple dye so both you and your inspector will have a visual indicator that the primer was used prior to gluing each joint. When we go through the hardware store selecting materials it is easy to grab the wrong can of glue. Take a moment and actually read the label to insure the can you select is PVC glue and not a Universal glue or ABS glue. Now here is a little known code requirement that often catches even the most experienced plumbers off guard. PVC pipe is made for Electrical Conduit, Pressure piping, DWV piping and both Sanitary and Storm drainage piping however, PVC pressure pipe is made under ASTM D-1785 and the pipe size conforms to the IPS (iron pipe standards) for schedule 20, 30, 40, 80, 120 and in some instances schedule 200. For storm drainage or sanitary sewer pipe applications PVC is also made under the SDR standard (Size Dimension Ratio standard). The code specifically states that all DWV piping MUST BE schedule 40 pipe and it must be labeled as conforming to ASTM D-2665. Although there is some PVC pipe made specifically to ASTM D-2665 and it is limited to DWV applications only, as a rule all PVC sched.40 pipe will be listed on the pipe wall as conforming to ASTM D-1785 & ASTM D-2665. When installing the pipe we must take care to insure that the manufacturers labeling printed on the pipe wall is clearly visible. Generally when laying pipe in a trench the printed label should be on the top of the pipe and when running vertical or horizontal above grade it should be on the front or side of the pipe where it can easily be seen when standing nearby. I have seen some hard-nose inspectors red tag a job because he or she could not read the label. The pipe in your trench should be padded with sand before backfilling. If you will be getting an inspection you should put enough sand in the trench to pad the underside of the pipe and perhaps part way up the pipe walls, but be sure to keep the top of the pipe clearly visible for inspection and have additional sand available on-sight so the inspector can be assured that you intend to pad the top of the pipe after inspection and prior to backfilling....See MoreVery rough basement remodel cost?
Comments (4)So the jobs done, so I thought I'd recap everything that went on. To scrappy's questions - I plumbed our new utility sink based off of the diagram shown on this site http://www.terrylove.com/forums/showthread.php?17967-utility-sink-drain Starting out, I had thought I could just cut into the washing machine stand pipe and be done with it, but it turns out it's not that simple. As per electrical, Arocon had their electrician move a couple of light fixtures and he also installed two new wall sockets on walls that had previously never had power, which was a nice plus. Now that the jobs done, the basement is looking good. They left some finishing work for me, to help keep the cost down but that's something I'm looking forward to tackling. Plus, after a little light sanding, we'll be ready to paint. So while the work they completed was nice, we're definitely not going to be using Arocon again based simply on their professionalism (or lack there of). When it came to communication, I was also the one to have to reach out to our foreman and often his answers were so vague that we were left wondering what the status of our job was or whether guys were going to be working any particular day. While not horrible, a few simple phone calls with updates would have gone a loooong way to making us feel more comfortable with the timeline and the work being finished. The other huge issue we had was with simple, avoidable damages. Over the course of the nine days they worked, we had several problems with things being broken or damaged by the workers. Often times it was a simply a case of them not bringing essential equipment, like a step ladder. Instead of having a ladder the guys used our furniture as ladders, which meant they broke a small bookshelf and a storage bin. Also, while moving furniture upstairs to make room for other equipment they left a big gash in our hardwood floors. Other things like using our broom to sweep up wet wall mud and leaving the job site a complete mess were just icing on the top. Long story short, while we were happy with the end result of the dry wall we were very far from satisfied with the manner in which it was completed. My reasoning is that while any construction crew can dry wall, I'm only going to repeat my business with one that treats me well. I did mention all this in an email to the company. I immediately heard from the co-owner and while he was apologetic and asked if we wanted to be compensated for damages, the damage had already been done. No one thing was horrendous in itself but the culmination of the lack of professionalism was too much for an apology to fix. I hope I'm not turning anyone off to having a contractor do work for them. And I would say "do your research" except that this group was rated A on several sites including ServiceMagicPros and BBB....See MoreIdentifying Basement Plumbing Rough In
Comments (2)This is what I see. 1 - It might be a 2" connection for a sink drain or shower drain, or a drain and a vent. A toilet would require a 3" drain fitting and a 1.5" or 2" vent. 2 - Probably a 2" floor drain, with an air admittance valve for a vent. 3 - 3" drain pipe from bath above. Unusual because it does not have a cleanout in the pipe. How would you snake out a clog? It may be just a vent pipe, but that would not require a 3" pipe. 4 - 3" drain from two toilets above. May be the main plumbing stack. 5 - 3" drain pipe that appears to also serve as a water softener drain (can't really see for sure). Sump pump next to it. I would pull off the caps shown in picture 1 and try to figure out where they go. Then pour some water down them and see whether they drain. Look for your main water shutoff valve inside the house and try to determine if the main sewer pipe also comes in under that wall. Installing both (water in and sewer out) along the same path is fairly common. Then look at the other three 3" stacks and try to figure out how they might connect to the main pipe. That may give you an idea of what is under the slab and where you could connect new drains. Bruce...See MoreCan anyone identify these pipes?
Comments (7)Smaller pipes are usually supply lines (hot/cold) and larger pipes are usually drain pipes. Smaller pipes (above the broom) are likely supply lines. That lone "larger" pipe above that is likely intended to go into a still larger pipe that goes to the septic tank or public sewage system. The nearby white pipe with blue tape MAY be a drain pipe from the heat/ac system. NOT a pro but have been involved in building two homes....See Moreformulaross20
3 years agoVince Leo
3 years agogreg_2015
3 years agogreg_2015
3 years agoformulaross20
3 years agogreg_2015
3 years agolast modified: 3 years agoVince Leo
3 years agolast modified: 3 years agoVince Leo
3 years agoVince Leo
3 years ago
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