you might want to ask in the tropical fruits forum. last summer i had an avocado seed grow in my compost pile, i dug it out, it had a very long tap root. i planted it somewhere else, and it died after a few days. must have damaged the tap root, or they dont like being moved around when still young.

I, too, worry when someone is guessing about the dosage of a pesticide. It's dangerous for the applicator as well as for the environment. The responsible use of imidicloprid pesticides requires knowledge of the most effective timing as well as making certain that the dose will be correct. Another factor that worries me is that some insects are developing resistance to this class of pestides (neonicotinoids) . But the biggest headache is that these chemicals have proved to cause a population explosion of pests after the effects begin to wear away. This ends up causing increased problems....and more pesticides. I strongly advise that our original poster wait for several weeks to see if there are any positive results. By that time, the trees will be preparing for autumn. I also suggest that he/she call the toll free number found on every label to ask for advice. Know the identification of the pests and the measured circumference of each tree. Be honest with your particular dose. I'll bet that you get lots of help. I agree that the 'lint' insects are not whitefly but hackberry wooly aphids. You might not be observing or recognizing other pests, as well. Don't you think that it might be time for you to call on a professional? An ISA (International Society of Arboriculture) Certified arborist is required....not any 'tree guy '. One of the most effective control measures is horticultural oil applied in the winter. This treatment smothers the eggs of many pests, breaking the cycle. I doubt that any professional will spray acephate everywhere and Bt is useless on whitefly (or wooly aphids, for that matter).

Once this Money tree was full of leaves and slowly the leaves started turning brown/yellow and falling. I have it in front, and some times I move it back a bit, so is not seating in front of an east side window. The Trunk now is brown but is still has some green parts and you can see some leaves growing down. I water when the soil is dry (once a week ). I usually just add a lil water but I just recently read I should water until it starts draining down the hole. Do I need to repot it? and get rid of the brown parts? (The brown trunk) or can I save it by just cutting the brown branches? Thanks!

take a hand trowel.. and dig 3 three to 6 inch holes around the tree .. AND FIND OUT ABOUT WATER AT DEPTH .... then water accordingly .. you say the clay in the burlap is moist.. is it still wrapped in the burlap?? whats all the black plastic behind.. and is it somehow building and retaining heat.. ... and somehow affecting the tree??? .. cant tell how far away in pix... in my high draining sand.. for me to water this size transplant tree.. i would have to run the irrigation 6 to 8 hours.. sto get enough water 8 to 12 inches down.. where the roots are.. you need to find out how water moves in your soil.. then learn how to water it properly by hand.. AND THEN FIGURE OUT HOW TO DO IT WITH DRIP IRRIGATION ... do a perk test to find out about drainage ... which tells you how water moves thru the soil ... ken https://duckduckgo.com/?q=garden+perc+test.&t=ffab&iar=videos&iax=videos&ia=videos