I like to see pictures of houses and gardens on this website, they are so totally different and look like I see them in films :-) But hearing these things makes me suddenly feel home: you call someone to do anything, they ask without any shame an outrageous amount of money. They often charge you 50 euros just for (having dared to?) call home thy lordship the holy carpenter/artisan/lawnguy! Do it yourself: you will save money, have fun, be proud of your pergola, and have a commitment and care that no stranger would have. Well, you will probably need much more time if it is your first do-it-yourself-work, and you will likely have to do and undo some things, until you learn. But that is were the fun is, after all. Just by restoring myself the windows that were damaged by a woodpeck, I saved about 12,000 euros last summer, for 12,000 I would have expected to have the windows re-made in sterling silver, not in common wood!!! :-)

To better understand your question, the builder is offering a steel girder over 2x10 girders,(usually tripled), as an upgrade to support your joists? I would go steel, but if you feel that is too pricy,then ask your builder to look into lvl's. They are laminated plywood structural engineered beams that can span great lengths and come in widths and thicknesses that are calc'd for your porject. Dimensional lumber used for girders has been done for a long time, but are more prone to twisting,warping,cracks,etc.Using steel speaks for itself.

The original poster used 6x12x24' to span the 18' span, so I think I will do the same. However, instead of 8' on the other side, I have 16'. I *could* add two more posts to break this up, and have 3 6x12 beams span the 18' distance between each pair of posts: 1------2 : : : : 3------4 1->2 distance = 18' 1->3 distance = 16' In my case posts between 1&2 and 3&4 are out of the question due to sight lines from the house (big window). I could add 2 posts shown by *, although I'd rather not, since the deck extends beyond on both sides: 1---#---2 : # : * # * : # : 3---#---4 So, I am thinking 6x12x24' between 1&2 and 3&4, then 4x8 (or 3x10) 18-20' length between 1&3 and 2&4, but also at the mid point of the two 6x12 beams (where the # are above). My concern is the weight of that mid span beam on the two 6x12s. But based on the two examples I've seen here, it looks like the 6x12s will do fine. I do like the idea of splitting the top rafter lengths in two, like Bemis' example, so I can use 12' 2x6s instead of 20' (or longer). However, that would require two mid span beams front to back resting on the 6x12s, like this: 1==#=#==2 # # # # # # # # # # # # 3==#=#==4 = are the 6x12x24' beams # are the 4x8x20' beams then 2x6x12' running from 1->2 across the top in two sections split in the middle, much like Bemis'

"...allowances themselves are not evil..." The problems with allowances are really very simple: Builders use allowances in various ways for their own purposes; reputable builders fully inform their owners about how the allowances were conceived; not so reputable builders do not. Many consumers, particularly first time builders, think that their construction cost in the construction contract, which included allowances is a maximum and all inclusive. When they can't get the desired and hoped for materials and work within a given allowance, many consumers are shocked, surprised and dismayed at the additional expenses reflected in the subsequent change orders. Many consumers, particularly first time builders, become overwhelmed by the myriad decisions and limited time frame for the choices which have to be made within the builder's normal construction sequencing and schedule. Waiting until construction to make all of these choices is fine for many experienced folks; it can be never-wracking from many other folks. Read the threads. At the end of the day, allowances all boil down to whether or not they are appropriate and "reasonable" for the nature and quality of the project, and if they reflect the owner's wishes. Think about the beginning of a construction project: how many consumers and builders are exactly on the same page at the time a construction contract is typed up? The too often answer is that each party is in their own individual world, based on their own similar experiences. Where does that leave consumers? If one's budget is large and flexible; If one enjoy shopping for and paying for one's own personal choices; if one's personality doesn't really mind "surprises" of a financial nature, where one or more allowances is insufficient to cover the expenses of an owner's desires; if one enjoys making selection decisions in a short time frame; if one has done all this before and understands how the process works...then allowances may not be much of a bother. On the other hand, if one wants their house priced all inclusively and wants to make the selection decisions up front and have them reflected in the total cost and schedule. the strategy is simple: eliminate all allowances. Everyone has a choice. But knowledge is power!