Durability of Al-Clad over Wood Interior Windows
Hello,
I am replacing Marvin AL-Clad/wood frames/sashes, triple pane windows due to water infiltration and rot of the cladded wood. These windows were installed in 1982 and have been problematic. The spacers failed early. Marvin replaced the sashes but the problem continued. Now the window frames are rotted, the glazing collapsed and the house has taken on water due to windows being compromised. The windows are casement, awning or fixed typical of a shed-style home of early 80's.
I was planning to replace with Andersen E Series (AL-clad/wood) but now I am second guessing myself as I do not want to repeat the (probable?) mistake that my father did in 1982 when he built the home. So, I am researching all fiberglass frames such as Marvin, Pella and Andersen composite Fibrex 100 series as I am really concerned about moisture being trapped behind the AL-clad (or FG or vinyl clad over wood) and repeating the same problems with the cladded wood. I recognized that the non-permeable cladding is possibly trapping condensate/water/humidity from the house and rotting the wood frame from the inside out. I cannot afford all wood nor do I prefer vinyl.
I realize that the problematic windows was about how the windows were built and that it was not the type of wood selected (pine) but what materials and how they were used was the problem; and finally not the failed spacers (which did not help but just hastened the rotting process). I realized that the wood preservatives are better and the frames are cladded in reverse from the time these 1982 Marvin Al-clad/wood windows were installed in this house. Yet, I only have once to do this right or I too will live in a leaky house.
So, my question to those contractors/window installers/designers who are familiar with how windows are presently built and install them frequently, are these same concerns founded in today's windows? Has the manufacturing been improved that the cladded wood does not rot due to lack of moisture vapor through the cladding material?
My question to you is given the climate of VA has the AL-clad wood windows (regardless of company) improved in the 40 years or will I face the same problems and should look to singular material window frame to ensure that I can get 20 years use out of the replacement windows and have a viable window into the third decade of use? Or am I smoking wacky weed to even think it is possible for today's windows to have three decades of viable use?
Thank you for your assistance.
Comments (7)
PROWindows on Washington Ltd
3 years ago
millworkman
3 years agoRelated Discussions
Help - Looking for a good Wood-Alum. Clad Window
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3 years agoWoW-
All operating sashes' spacers failed with the first batch. If you look closely you will see dropped spacers on the second batch. The fixed windows' spacers did not fail on either batch as I recall.
With the upper middle window, I plan to do three fixed (2/3) windows over three awning (1/3) windows to eliminated the 3x3 which had six awnings and three fixed. It actually performed better than the other four combination windows. But they are all leaking now as is the single vent units.
At this point, I am now moving away from replacing like for like (type of product, AL-clad over wood) and going with an all fiberglass product. It is not necessary to have wood nor a particular painted color at this point as am making changes inside also.
We are leaning towards black exterior frames which means if we go with all fiberglass then black on the interior also. I will have to do something to make up for the lost casing of a wood cladded product as the drywall doesn't return into the opening currently.
House is located in northern Shenandoah Valley 30 miles south of Winchester.
Regarding the exterior we are leaning towards Board N Batten vinyl siding with a touch of lap at the gable ends to break up the mass of sides of house. Have not picked a color yet but will probably go mid-tones; learning towards taupes as hate the 'fake' gray vinyl colors. Might do a very dark blue with a taupe dutch lap at gables only.
I will keep the same operating types, casement (many), awing (few), fixed (several).
We are taking it down to framing as the sheathing is compromised due to animal/bug infestation and water infiltration, etc. Most of the sheathing is 1/2" JM rigid foam board with foil and rest is plywood. It is being replaced with Zip System so to me it is a new construction window installation.
Millworkman -
At this point, I moving towards an all fiberglass product for longevity, durability and appearance. I have read quite a few of your posts and it is apparent that you have a dislike for Pella. Last night I reviewed all the warranties of the big three, Andersen, Marvin and Pella. As this seems to be the only way a one-time purchaser can really get a sense of the quality.
Marvin's warranties across the entire product line is the greatest with the least amount of disclaimers/exclusions. 20 on glass, 10 on non-glass, 20/10 on finish.
Andersen's warranties are standard across the entire product line with the typical disclaimers/exclusions as Marvin BUT with the AL-Clad (E-Series) will only warranty the wood components for five years yet did not reduce the wood components on the A-series and equated vinyl/fibrex (400, 200, 100) as the same as A-series. So if I read and reflect upon these warranties' durations across the entire product line, Andersen themselves are not confident about the E-series wood components which tells me RUN and RUN FAST in the other direction.
Pella has the greatest warranty coverage, lifetime for non-glass components, 10 on finish and 20 on glass with the greatest list of exclusions and disclaimers; so maybe that list discounts the benefit of the lifetime duration? Why are you against this manufacturer?
Renewal by Andersen provides 20 on glass, 20 on non-glass including Fibrex and 10 on finish...my big question is why the different duration on 20 for RbA and 10 for 100? Are they made at same factory with same components?
WoW/Millworkman,
Based upon local availability and cost, my choices have narrowed down to Andersen 100 Series (Fibrex) or Marvin Essential Series (FG); can I assume based upon reading the warranties and looking at DP and PG grades that both of these products are equivalent and will perform the same with about the same longevity of 10 years?
Can I expect Fibrex and Ultrex to perform the same for my house?
Should I be concerned about using one type of material (wood composite versus glass composite) over the other?
Should I even consider using Andersen Series A as an alternate to Series E?
Does one company window assembly (Marvin) install better than the other company (Andersen)?
Or stop thinking so much and go for the most cost-effective of the two products: Marvin Essential or Andersen 100 Series and forget Andersen A due to cost?
THANK YOU FOR TAKING TIME TO READ AND RESPOND!
Lynne
Lynne Murray
3 years agolast modified: 3 years agoLynne Murray
3 years ago- PRO
Windows on Washington Ltd
3 years ago
Windows on Washington Ltd