I have a Southern Ag product I purchased last year, but haven't used it yet. It is LIQUID COPPER FUNGICIDE (27%). Any idea if this product is going to be useful treating my problem?

Hi Margie, It's hard to say without more information or a photo, but I suspect that you have BER (Blossom End Rot). It is very common on some tomatoes, especially paste types, early in the season. Later on you will likely have fewer tomatoes with it. If you wish, you can pick the ones that have it so that the plants can put more energy into the BER free tomatoes. BER is caused by a problem with calcium distribution, not by a lack of calcium in the soil or growing medium. Some people say they have prevented it by using a foliar spray that contains calcium. Personally I have not tried it, I just dispose of the early tomatoes with BER. But then I have a lot more plants than you do. Good luck! Betsy Here is a link that might be useful: FAQ page on Blossom End Rot

Water shortage, even though brief. Perhaps it was warmer and/or brighter than usual, even if only for a few hours.

I would guess most of those whitish, papery spots are sunburn. The good news is: since your message was a week ago, by this point, the damage is done, and if your plants have survived, you probably don't need to do anything. The new foliage will be adapted to unprotected exposure to sun and be fine. When it grows in enough so that you think the plant can photosynthesize OK with just the new, undamaged foliage, go ahead and prune off the old, damaged leaves. In future (or if you moved your plants back inside after your original post), you need to do what's called "hardening off" when you first bring plants that have been grown indoors to the outdoors. This means very gradually exposing tender, indoor-grown plants to outdoor stresses. UV radiation, especially, will damage plants when first brought outside if care is not taken. Wind is also an issue if combined with UV or with dry air, especially cool, dry air. General advice on hardening off is to leave plants in full shade for a day when you first put them out, and then gradually and slowly increase their exposure time to full sun for about a week or so starting with less than an hour (preferably not during the strongest sun period of the day) and increasing a bit every day. If you can't be there to move plants back and forth between sun and shade because of work or something, a good strategy is to use shade cloth (a thin fabric that is designed to give plants a small amount of shade in very strong sun areas). In the beginning, use several layers. Each day or two, remove a layer until the plants are doing well in full sun. Adjust the schedule to account for cloudy days, etc. I'm not sure what the black spots in your first photo are. I would prune off the areas with the dark spots just in case they're some kind of opportunistic disease taking advantage of the sun damage, but I suspect they're some kind of anthocyanin response to the sudden intense UV.