Posted by TomatoZ 5b Have harvested a couple of unexpected huge Purple Dog Creek tomatoes. All 3 of them were over 2 lbs. - the first time ever for me. The taste was great and it'll be on the 2014 list. . . . An 85-day tomato! I can only wish, TomatoZ . . . Today and yesterday we've had some showers. The thermometer hasn't hit 70ðf on either day . So, is this neck of the woods headed into the Big Cool Down? Nope. The Weather Service predicts 2 days next week will have 90ð afternoons! I AM GONNA HAVE SOME SERIOUS RIPENING IN THE TOMATO PATCH!!! The peppers can't do much, they are stunted from the cool spring. The melons may be just about played out - we will see, but they've done pretty darn good so far. This may be, however, the opportunity for me to enjoy a vine-ripened Brandywine tomato! I have an OTV Brandywine that has a good number of green fruits on it. Thanks David! We are moving into mid-September. The days-to-maturity go completely out the window when the nights begin to drop into the 40's. Doesn't look like it will be happening yet. The Pantano Romanesco tomato plant in my garden is also thanks to a gardening friend. It is in the same "big plant, loaded with green fruit" condition. The last 2 summers have been warm to hot and run late. I don't know if I can count on this. I doubt if I will ever have more than one of what is purported to be an 80 day tomato. Still, having one big, loaded plant . . !!! Steve

Hi Silvia, maybe they're kind words but you make it easy, over a Sungold Caprese salad LOL. The thread got so big, I'm reading it in pieces so forgive me if I say something you've covered. To tell the truth, I just keep coming back to look at the pictures ;-) When/how are you going to pull your plants this year? Do you take them to the end, or as you say force a break to lessen carrying any disease (and I say enjoying Christmas). I think we're going to have an early frost this year since that's the way it's been going. It'll definitely get us up here, but hopefully you'll be insulated around 3 hours to the south. Three hours, hmmm. If things work out I might just crash your April party! I'm actually going to try the mix with spinosad and neem, because you suggested it... The spinosad alone is worthless but I've never used neem, and need to look more into it, since it gets such good reviews. I have a highly refined horticultural oil called Sunspray that I've used for mites successfully which may be an ok swap, so I'll read up on the difference to be sure. I started keeping single vines, and you're right about that. At this point, I am letting the plants put out everything they can. It's not because I am happy with that, only because every single flower counts here and pruning and waiting as the Sun falls further won't get a few last clusters in. So it used to single but now they are an intertwined mess with lots of yellow ;-) October was a great month in general as it always is, but the party will be over as quickly as it started. September was a total rainout which delayed everything and why transplant date was Oct 3. Hi labs ! Yes a sort of summer fabric would be just what the doctor ordered. Sounds like a project for next year spring/summer. But for extending the season, the plants now couldn't take the hit in loss of light. Sometimes I think I should just get a grow room inside the house with silver wallpaper and a huge electric bill :-( Cheers! PC EDIT... about Citrus, nope that's not our source here but I bet it is a big deal around Indian River... we're too far north except for an ocassional pet tree in the yard for fun. There are two trees within 500 feet and later I'm going to sneak a look at them both just for fun. Better not to ask, since it might not go over well, if I say can I inspect your lemon and orange tree for leafminers I have on my tomatoes ;-)))) This post was edited by PupillaCharites on Wed, Nov 12, 14 at 11:58

Bacterial diseases can ramp up on greenhouse tomato seedlings long before symptoms become obvious. Bacterial speck (Pseudomonas syringae pv. tomato), bacterial spot (Xanthomonas campestris pv. vesicatoria) and bacterial canker (Clavibacter michiganensis subsp. michiganensis) are three diseases that can wreak havoc in the greenhouse. Symptoms of both bacterial speck and bacterial spot appear as dark blotches and/or spots on the leaves. Sometimes these blotches/spots are nearly black, but they can also be light brown. A yellow "halo" can surround these blotches/spots but may not always be present. Bacterial canker looks different than other bacterial diseases. Canker causes a light browning along the leaf mid-veins and extends down the petiole. It is easy to overlook canker infection because it can mimic other disorders, including stress from drying. Bacterial canker symptoms do not appear to be "disease-like" compared to bacterial speck and spot. Disease spread In general, bacteria are spread via splashing water between plants and require a wound or a natural opening to gain entrance. A wound can be as small as a microscopic abrasion. Bacteria can move into a leaf via natural openings along the leaf edge. This can result in a dark fringing along the leaves� outer edge. Bacterial speck, bacterial spot and bacterial canker can be introduced to a tomato seedling via the seed. Bacteria can occur on the seed coat, but the bacterial canker bacteria can sometimes be inside the seed. When the seed coat stays attached to the cotyledons following emergence, any bacteria on the seed coat can move to the seedling. They reproduce rapidly when conditions are warm and wet. Bacteria move between plants by splashing water. Overhead watering allows bacteria to move readily from diseased transplants to adjacent healthy transplants. When the greenhouse humidity is especially high, the bacteria can become encapsulated within tiny airborne water droplets and may move within the greenhouse via water aerosols. Bacteria can also be introduced to tomato seedlings via diseased plant residue left in the greenhouse. Old foliage may serve as a source of bacteria to infect a new group of seedlings. Start control early Bacterial control is best begun even before there is a sign of disease. Start with tomato seed that has been tested for bacterial pathogens and commercially treated. Growers can treat the seed themselves including using a hot water treatment. Although this treatment can be effective, the high temperature can hurt germination. Hot water treatment is not used widely but may be an option for those who are looking for relief from bacteria and are growing transplants for the organic industry and have limited options. Keep the environment and foliage as dry as possible to limit the spread and development of bacterial diseases. Both conventional and organic growers can apply copper fungicide sprays to help limit diseases. Some bacterial pathogens may not respond to copper if they have mutated and developed resistance. Growers cannot immediately determine whether their particular bacterial problem responds to copper. Based on research trials at Michigan State University, it is best to begin a copper spray program on tomato transplants as soon as the true leaves emerge and to re-apply the sprays every five days. To stay within label specifications of a seven-day application interval, copper-based products may need to be alternated. Streptomycin (i.e., AG Streptomycin and Agri-mycin 17) can also be used alone or in combination with copper products to limit bacterial disease on greenhouse tomato transplants. Check with state extension officials to ensure streptomycin is registered in your state. Tanos is labeled to suppress bacterial diseases. Developing problems Problems can develop as seedlings develop. Alternaria and Botrytis can cause problems as the seedlings grow and the lower leaves age, overlap and develop a canopy. Alternaria is also known as early blight and first appears on the oldest leaves mimicking a bulls-eye target with concentric rings in the spot/blotch. Botrytis is everywhere within the environment and is best known as grey mold because of its fuzzy grey spore masses that are produced on diseased leaves and stems. It is not uncommon for Botrytis to infect older tomato transplants via the cotyledons which are clinging to the stem. The pathogen then progresses into the stem and may constrict and girdle it. Botrytis and Alternaria require the leaves stay wet for at least four to six hours so their spores can germinate and grow into the plant and cause disease. If the relative humidity is high during the day and the temperature drops even a degree or two, the moisture in the air can condense onto the foliage as a fine film and provide enough water for the spores to germinate and infect the plant. Botytis is primarily a greenhouse problem but may also occur in low and high tunnels if there is inadequate ventilation and air movement. Once plants are moved outside, there is better air circulation and Botrytis becomes less of a problem. Alternaria is a common problem in field production where it can overwinter in tomato plant debris. It can also occur on seedlings in the greenhouse. Botrytis and Alternaria spores move on air currents within the greenhouse. Since they are common pathogens in the environment, the distance they might travel is not considered to be of great importance. Reducing disease infection Keeping the relative humidity lower than 85 percent and providing good air circulation limits disease. Water that accumulates under benches and tight plant spacing can contribute to pockets of high relative humidity that favors Alternaria and Botrytis. Preventive fungicides are nearly always applied to prevent Botrytis and Alternaria since they can be frequent problems. There are several formulations of the fungicide Dithane available that can protect greenhouse seedlings. Heritage is also available and is especially effective against Alternaria and can be used in alternation with Dithane. Tanos can be used against Alternaria and can be alternated in a treatment program along with Dithane and/or Heritage to protect tomato seedlings. Decree is recommended when Botrytis control is needed.

I live in Minnesota and I have noticed the same thing as what others have said. I noticed it around an area of where our old (cut down) Oak tree was. I have been trying to grow some grass there for a while. We have had some rain, but this is in a sunny location on a hill. The spot looks black from a distance but up close it looks like brown fungus covering the grass and some weeds. I took a stick and brushed over it and it clouded up kind of like the smoke balls that we seem to get once in a while here in MN. We also have some white powdery looking stuff in a smaller area by the black fungus stuff. I'll try and mow over it and see what happens. I'm worried my dog will get into it and get sick.