In theory, the attic temperatures are not an issue of concern. The roof ability to vent the moisture is what is the critical element. Yes, zoned AC systems that are in the attic do have to work harder if that is the case, but speaking purely theoretically, the temp is not the issue if your envelope (air) and insulation layer of your attic floor are intact and sufficient. You will always want to have more incoming air than you have exhaust air. If not, you run the risk of creating a negative pressure in the attic and thereby removing conditioned air from the conditioned zone below. This is what is often happening when people run attic fans and feel like they are "working" by keeping the attic cooler. They are, but at the expense of sucking conditioned air into the attic. I am guessing that you have soffit vents for the incoming air? Have you checked them and are they unblocked and open? If they are and you have good continuous make up air coming in, putting a couple of vents in the roof (not powered) is okay if you are concerned. Again, it is not really a necessity if your attic insulation and envelope air tightness is good. If you are worried about a second HVAC system running in inhospitable environments, a little more exhaust to get the air moving shouldn't be too back. That being said, even a small ridge vent should flow plenty of air. Check your soffits.

You're probably not going to want to hear this, but my mullions and shelves not lining up drove me so crazy that I ended up replacing the mullioned glass doors with clear ones. The shelves will actually never line up with the mullions, because if you get them to line up, say, viewing them straight on, when you view them from an angle, they then won't line up from that viewpoint. I think it's a matter of people's personalities, because this issue would not bother some people, and does bother others. The good news is that I had FOUR mullioned glass doors that I replaced with clear ones, and it wasn't actually much of a big deal. The big expense in cabinetry is the boxes, not the doors. What I did was order 4 new doors without glass from my cabinet company, which surprisingly wasn't too expensive. Then I brought the glass-less doors to a local neighborhood glass/mirror shop where they measured them for the glass. I did end up choosing to bevel the clear glass edges. The bevelling adds a high-end luxury look - it ought to since it almost doubled the cost of the glass. But after having seen the bevelled clear glass, I know I wouldn't have been happy with the plain clear glass. When the glass was ready, about 10 days later, the glass store installed the glass onto the doors for me, and I brought them home and hung them myself. It was really easy, and I am not at all handy. I know it sounds like a lot of trouble, but that's how much the not-lining-up issue bugged me. And now, every day I can look at my clear glass cabinets with their lovely bevelled edges, and the shelves going cleanly horizontally, and enjoy the view. Sorry if this message is a downer for you, but thought I'd relay my experience.

We asked the builder and got a blow off, so we decided to try and figure out what is going on. It appears that we are missing many of the clips for the OSB sheathing and many of the ones that are there are bent, damaged, etc. This is just one more issue we are having. At this point I wish we could honestly just walk away. We made the mistake of self-funding and purchasing the lot. This is just one example, but there are too many to post pictures of them all. We all appear to have several cracked roof trusses as the one pictured here. Thank you so much for all the comments.

They look like pencil marks to me, 1 on center, and the other 2 marking the outside of the intersecting ridge. Just a guess....