Chubavis, grasses grow a root zone 3 or more inches deep. That is a lot of topsoil to add and a lot of sand to remove even in a small lawn. I've grown and seen a lot of fine lawns grown in sand soil. It is much cheaper and easier to make sand into good soil than to bring in topsoil. Adding organic matter will improve sand's moisture and chemical retention characteristics. 1) Get my soil checked by a lab. Grasses need certain chemicals in certain amounts to thrive. A soil test report from a comprehensive and reputable lab like Logan Labs will tell you what ammendments are needed and save you from just thowing chemicals (and $) at the lawn. 2) I'm assuming from what I've read elsewhere, that it is best to remove the larger rocks and pebbles. Should I be raking through it as well to get some of the rocks slightly below the surface? Yes, remove all the rocks that you can from the surface and try to get the larger rocks and stoes by raking an inch or two down. Grass will not grow on rock and fewer rocks and stones will make the lawn more "knee friendly." Don't try to bury them, as they will just work their way back to the surface. On the otherhand, don't get obsesive and try to remove every pebble. Break your lawn into small sections and do the sections as time allows. 2) Seed the Sand. You will want to wait for your soil test results. (See answer to your "fertilizing" and "last" question below) 3) Now at this point, should i be rolling the seeds into the sand? or should i add a thin layer of topsoil and then roll over it? I just feel like by adding seeds over the sand they are not going to germinate. Rolling is fine- it really doesn't matter if you roll before or after topdressing, rr you could go over the lawn with a verticutter or you could lightly rake the lawn (drag a garden rake to make shallow furrows for the seed and then use the back of a leaf rake to cover the furrows) to bury the seed (bury no more than 1/4" deep no mater which method you choose). Many of us like to lightly topdress our seed. I, and others, prefer to use peat moss as it will protect the seed, hold moisture and add organic matter. (My current home has a 50/50 mix of silt and sand. I raked the stones up from the surface only and hand pulled the larger rocks. Spread seed, used a verticutter in two directions to bury the seed to 1/4" and lightly covered with peat moss.) 4)Water 3x a day until germination. Yes, but lightly. You just want to keep the seed moist, not drowning wet, so just enough water each time to get the top 1/4 inch of soil damp. 3x a day so the seed never dries out. Once the seed germinates you'll go to 2x for a little loger each time. ---Fertilizing Im a little confused....should i add organic matter and fertilizer prior to seeding? When I seed? Or after they start to germinate? Lastly, I was planning on starting when the ground thaws and its warm enough outside for germination. Timeco mentioned "Another thing to consider is planting grass this spring just to get coverage, with the intent to kill it all in the summer. You should use a fast germinating/establishing grass for this like TTTF or annual rye." --What do they mean by with the intent of killing it in the summer? I'm going to address you earlier "seed" question and your last question here. The best time to plant seed is late summer/early fall. Less weed competition, cooler temps but still warm enough for grass establishment and the turf has 7-9 months to mature and develope a root system before the heat of the next summer. When you seed in the spring the new grass only has a couple of months to mature and develope a root system before the heat of summer. Also Spring and summer is when weeds are most prolific. This results in 1. summer grass die off. 2. increased weed competition as you are fertilizing and water the weed seeds along with the grass and 3. as the summer kills off grass areas, new weeds jump in to fill the space. Some amendmendments (per soil test) are either needed in such large amounts that they need to be applied over time and/or should not be applied at the same time as seed. The best plan is to plan on a fall seeding schedule. Though spring and summer, prepare the soil by adding the needed ammendments and regukar application of organic matter (hopefully others here (tiemco, tw, andy, dchall etc.) will chime in with more specific advice) About 4-6 weeks before fall seeding kill everything with Round up, mow short and rake up the debree and then seed per above. Some people with bare dirt can't stand to have a dirt lawn all sommer, so as tiemco suggested, they seed with a fast growing grass like annual rye in the spring and kill it and everything else (weeds) in preparation for fall seeding. Feel free ask for clarification as this was pretty cursory.

Don't do anything that will cost you money, yet. What is your watering regimen? How often and for how long? What kind of grass? What kind of weeds (grassy weeds or broadleaf weeds)? When were the last two times you fertilized and what did you use?

Crabgrass is a warm season annual grass. It will sprout around April. You can use a pre-emerge herbacide on your lawn BEFORE it sprouts. Ferti-loam makes a weed and feed for crabgrass. Make sure you mow any crabgrass before it can put out seeds for next years. Not knowing where you live, I can't make any grass recommendations. In Arkansas/Missouri we can grow either cool season or warm season grasses. In Arkansas warm season ones work better. Choices include bermudagrass, zoysia, centipede, and st. augustine (not reliably winter hardy north of Central Arkansas). Bermuda is easiest grass to establish if you have good sun. Zoysia can take some shade, and Centipede and St. Augustine can take more shade. No grass will grow well in deep shade. Cool grasses include turf type tall fescues, ryegrass, and bluegrass. Some people in north Arkansas/Missouri have some success with fescue, but it must be well watered during the summer to stay green, and usually re-seeded every fall. Ryegrass is an annual grass that will die out when summer gets hot. I don't know much about bluegrass as it doesn't do well in Arkansas. Bermuda can be sodded anytime, or seeded in May and will establish if you keep the water on your lawn. Ryegrass, bluegrass, fescue are sown in October. Zoysia, St. Augustine, and Centipede are usually laid as sod. If you have dense shade, I recommend ground covers instead of grass.

Dear Rjinga Thank you very much for your inquiry. You seem to have two issues, how to fix the problem and how to prevent it from happening again. First I think you are too far apart with your passes. If you see an even distribution, this can be the only answer. The material should throw from wheel to wheel of the passes. Now, how to mask the issue. Not quite as easy. I can think of two solutions, both of which involve adding fertilizer to the lawn. First, go back over the lines that have been missed, right down the middle of them, as in theory if your spacing was too far, this should fill in nicely. The second option is to fertilize the perpendicular to the original direction at the appropriate spacing. This will mask the symptoms form a color standpoint, but you may have to mow more. From a timing standpoint, if you irrigation there should be no issue with burning your lawn if you are within label directions. You can use the weed/feed product with no issues on the turf. You can also use another fertilizer. The real issue is trying to match the amount of nitrogen you have already put down as this controls the color. Again, thanks for the question and let me know if you have more. Respectfully Trey Rogers, The Briggs & Stratton Yard Doctor, YardDoctor.com