If you read the WA noxious weed list carefully, you will see that it includes in majority mostly weeds :-) Unlike many other parts of the country where cultivated garden ornamentals - nandina, Japanese barberry, Miscanthus sinensis, privet, burning bush, silk tree, black locust, various honeysuckles, etc. - make up the bulk of the problem plants. The hollies and laurels remarked above (among other species) do not yet fit the definition of invasive - they have an ability to reseed rather freely and often in non-cultivated areas but not to the point of overwhelming native species or causing economic damage. The only barrier to a plant's expansion across this country is any regulations prohibiting its transport....and even that is a dubious control, especially with folks transporting a treasure from granny's garden to a new home across the country, Not to mention mail order nurseries or the widespread garden trades and exchanges, like what occurs here on GW. Fortunately, to a very large extent, unbounded proliferation of invasive species is moderately well controlled by Ma Nature. If the setting/climate/growing conditions are not suitable, the plant won't thrive or will be unable to reproduce.

I have lived in California for many years, but I began my rose growing career in Butler County, Pennsylvania, so I am familiar with what you face. Hybrid perpetuals and bourbons are not your best bets. Even here in dry California they benefit from spray. If you love these roses so much you are willing to experiment, I would suggest 'Joasine Hanet', 'Sidonie', and 'Yolande d'Aragon' as the best to grow in a no-spray regimen. They may still get blackspot, but they are the most disease resistant HPs I know of. Here the found rose Grandmother's Hat is also highly disease resistant, but I have heard that it does not do quite as well in humid climates. Still, if you want to try it, it might be worth the risk. All four of these are fragrant and lovely. Do not ignore the rugosa class. Most of them repeat well, are highly disease resistant, cold tolerant, and very fragrant. I love them, but alas, they simply do not grow well in my climate and soil. I do grow one (Dart's Dash) even though it is not happy with the western alkaline soil. They will sucker and spread if grown on their own roots, so you might consider getting them grafted. Pickering Nursery is an excellent source for grafted rugosas. I should mention that the rugosa roses cannot be sprayed. As Mad Gallica mentioned the once blooming European old garden roses are less susceptible to black spot than later classes of roses. Albas and damasks are the most fragrant. Gallicas are moderately fragrant. Gallicas and some of the others will sucker and spread the same way the rugosas do, growing like a thicket. If this is fine with you, go for it. If not you will want to grow them grafted. Again Pickering is a good source. When considering once bloomers, consider ramblers. Some are very fragrant, some are not. Keep away from Dorothy Perkins. I don't think it gets much blackspot, but it gets horrible powdery mildew. But there are literally hundreds of ramblers, some of modest size, some big enough to climb into trees or swallow a shed. Many are not much planted because people are unwilling to plant once bloomers, but they are stunning when in bloom. I myself would not want a garden comprised entirely of once blooming roses, but I think a very good argument can be made for planting 10% of your roses as once bloomers. When in bloom, they outshine anything else you can imagine. There are modern shrubs that are bred for disease resistance. Kordes in Germany is famous for this and has produced some lovely roses, not only disease resistant but also cold hardy. Until recently they did not seem to be selecting for scent, though I do believe some of their recent introductions are fragrant. The ones I have grown were not, but I have not grown many of them. Among the Austins, look among more recent introductions. Disease resistance did not seem to be high on his list of characteristics in the early days, though I'm sure a few were. Mayflower is the first one to be marketed for that quality. There are other breeders who are selecting for this particular trait, and also for fragrance. Paul Barden who sometimes posts here is one. His roses can be found at Rogue Valley Roses. Tom Carruth also considers these two qualities (also stripes, also near-blue color). He currently works for Weeks Roses. He also has posted here from time to time, though I haven't seen him in several years, perhaps because I spend less time on the Roses Forum than this one. And also, please remember that disease resistant does not mean disease immune. All roses get some disease at some point. However, the level of disease varies widely. So that you will get a clear idea of how I judge disease resistance, I'll describe my own practice. I do a single dormant spray of copper (organic) once a year after pruning to break the disease cycle, and no other spray for the rest of the year. Roses that cannot perform reasonably well with this practice will be removed. As I mentioned, my garden is in a low rainfall, semi-arid area. (More arid than semi this year!) Black spot exists here, but rust and powdery mildew are the diseases we worry about more. Rosefolly This post was edited by rosefolly on Fri, Feb 28, 14 at 14:16

Wow, wish mine tasted like persimmon! The variety I grow has the taste of rose water and yep a mildly bitter rind, not unpleasant but not something I'd eat handfuls of!

Exactly where in SW PA? I am in SW PA about 25 miles due north of Pittsburgh. If the location is south of Pittsburgh, my bloom time could be as much as 10 days to 2 weeks later than there. Late May into mid June, I have Weigela 'Midnght Wine' in bloom. This would require a pruning soon after bloom to keep it well shaped, but would be ok unpruned for several years at a time. Dianthus 'Neon Star' blooms heavily during the same time and sporadicaly throughout the summer. It is tolerant of poor conditions and needs no maintenance really. At just 5 or 6 inches tall, it could be easily mowed over when not in bloom. It's foliage is evergreen. Geranium cantabrigienese 'Biokova' and 'Karmina' are also in bloom then and pretty much carefree. This Geranium also is evergreen. Nepeta 'Walkers Low' would also be a good choice. Cutting back in late fall or very early spring would be desireable but not necessary. The Daylily "Stella d'Oro" blooms then and requires no care. And don't forget the ever popular Peony. Carefree and lives forever. Look into the Korean Dogwoods for a shrubby tree. Mine blooms about the end of the first week of June, but a little farther south may bring about an earlier bloom.