*Sweeby, thanks for the info. I have the plan to put white ceramic next to my tub. But I haven't bought the tub yet. I will definitely heed your warning about white tile. My tile is white shiny. My soapstone remnants have a lot of veining that is green/yellow. It looks sort of like green moss just below the surface of a black pond when its oiled up. This is a challenge and the Sea Salt cast iron is the least of my color problems. I am trying to find a wall paint that goes with the soapstone and the bluish, whitish, lavenderish, even slight greenish mosaic marble tiles I would like to use. I could just give in and go with the more standard white-gray mosaic but I love the liveliness of the mosaic I described. I don't want to be over the top with elements in my BR remodel. I posted on another thread about my tile pattern. I think I did a poor job of rendering the tiles and it looks like I have gone overboard on numbers of sizes of tile when in fact I only have the field tile and base and chair rail with an added listello of marble. Take a look at that thread and give my your thoughts if you have time. *Kichendrazed09, thanks for your feedback on your kitchen. It is encouraging to hear that the Sea Salt goes with your white. My white tile is pretty standard white. When I try to match other brands of white with it is is pretty easy as long as there is no tendency to off white. I think the tile is called Ultra White and is made by a now defunct manufacturer that was in Georgia I believe. As noted to Sweeby, I am struggling with more than the hopes of getting a Sea Salt tub. As I mention above I have another thread about my tile diagram. Take a look if you have time and give me your thoughts. Both of your responses have been very helpful, thanks.

No, they work just fine. With induction, the bottom of the pan doesn't have to be in direct contact with the surface since the magnetic waves will reach a bit beyond. They may end up spinning on you, which could be a problem if they spin off the cooktop. One solution to steady it would be to use a piece of silicone (mat, trivet) on top of the cooktop and place your wobbly cookware on top of that.

I'm sure all of the above methods are the correct way or the way you were taught, as I do. I have my mom's 6" fry pan, her Dutch Oven and her 12" fry pan, that she used for over 50 years. She used them in her 2 restaurants and at home and I used them in my nightclub & later in my restaurant back in the late 60's thru the mid 80's. I'm still using them of course and my mom's method has always worked. After use, I wash in warm water with a little dish soap, rinse well and dry them. Using scraps of 100% cotton, (I save old T shirts).. I apply some Veg. oil on the cloth and in a circular motion..rub the oil into the grooves of the entire pan. I put it in my preheated oven at 250 degrees for 15 min., turn it off and let the pan remain in the oven. They have served me well all of these years.

Bunnyman, If you want to read a bit about the chemistry involved in seasoning a pan you will find that information buried somewhere in the post that I referenced above. It is a rather long post with lots of useful information. I am a retired chemist and know what I am talking about. I am an excellent cook and know how to apply science to my cooking. One day I intend to publish a cookbook and it will contain a chapter on the care and seasoning of cast iron. My love of cast iron began many years ago when I purchased a large cast iron Gypsy pot for cooking Jambalaya outdoors. This first pot was a 12 gallon size. Now I own many other cast iron pots ranging in size from 1 gallon up to 25 gallons. That’s not counting all of my skillets, Dutch ovens, griddles, etc. And yes I do own and use lots of high carbon steel, stainless steel, glass, aluminum, and cast aluminum cookware. The only pot I can find that will hold the huge quantities of rice and meat that goes into cooking a batch of jambalaya is one that is made of cast iron. FYI, that 25 gallon pot will hold 40 pounds of rice along with 40 pounds of onions and 100 pounds of chicken, pork, and sausage. This will provide enough jambalaya for 320 servings. Yes, glass most certainly is a liquid which is contrary to what many people believe. To clean your warhorse glass frying pan use a product called DAWN POWER DISSOLVER and your scrubbing days will be over. You are correct in stating that copper oxide is poisonous. However, aluminum is completely harmless and not at all related to any old timer’s disease. If aluminum caused any health risk whatsoever, we would not be worldwide drinking trillions of beers and sodas from aluminum cans. Theresa, Cast iron pans manufactured prior to 1890 used a completely different casting process than what is used today. These old pans will have what is called a “gate mark” on the underside of the vessel……the gate mark will look like a line. These gate marks were formed as the molten metal was "poured" into the pan mold. These old pans are much tougher and the surface is naturally a lot smoother than pans you see today. After 1890, they began a using a process known as "injection" (i.e. no longer pouring) sand casting to manufacture iron pans. The smoothest of the pan was a function of the quality (fineness) of the sand used in the manufacturing process. Companies like Griswold and Wagner Sidney-O had very good quality control both in the composition of their pig iron and in their casting process. This allowed them to make their pans THINNER and lighter while still retaining its overall strength. These old companies then used labor intensive machines to polish the interior of the pans. Most of today’s’ cast iron pans are inferior in quality to these old pans. The Le Creuset pans are an exception. The quality of their castings is outstanding. Jim, If you look at cast iron under high magnification, you will see that it does contain some tiny pores. Those pores will indeed absorb oil. Those tiny pores become perfectly sealed when you season your pan properly (i.e. the HIGH TEMPERATURE procedure). Low temperature seasoning methods do not give the same excellent results of high temperature seasoning……you will get much different results at different seasoning temperatures. This is because the extent of polymerization (seasoning) if a function of temperature. What many cast iron users simply do not understand…. that if ANY trace of water is left in a poorly seasoned pan, that water will initiate rust. When iron combines with oxygen to from that rust…….its volume expands tremendously. Ever notice how rust lifts the paint off of metal??? Rust will likewise literally lift the seasoning off of the pan. Since this occurs on a "micro" scale, you will know this is occurring on your pan when you observe some of the seasoning actually lifting and falling off. To prevent this from happening......ALWAYS dry your pan using burner heat after cleaning a cast iron pan……..towel drying is not dry enough!! This is especially true with rough surfaced cast iron pans like Lodge. The surface of most cast modern day cast iron products, such as Lodge, is rather rough and will hold/trap water easily. A smooth surface is much superior to a rough surface when searing meat. Those pores will collect meat juices that will steam the meat and will keep the temperature at 212 degrees F until that steam has dissipated. Smooth surfaces do not allow any water to collect between the meat and the pan surface; therefore, the temperature that the meat sees is always way above 212. Different cooking temperatures allow different chemical reactions to occur. Most cooks are familiar with what happens when you put too much meat in the pan and try to sear it. The silky smooth surfaces of those old cast iron pans do not allow meat juices to accumulate under the meat that is being seared…….the result is the buildup of a much better fond. Better fond equals superior flavor in ANY dish.....especially in a Cajun brown jambalaya. Good cooks know that fond can separate a good tasting dish from an truly outstanding dish. Dan