Hi Jennifer, IÂve always thought some of the cotoneasters were pretty tough things, and I was curious, so I googled "cotoneaster at high altitude" and came up with some pretty good sites. One article in WikiBooks says: "The majority of species are shrubs from 0.5-5 m tall, varying from ground-hugging prostrate plants to erect shrubs; a few, notably C. frigidus, are small trees up to 15 m tall and 75 cm trunk diameter. The prostrate species are mostly alpine plants growing at high altitude (e.g. C. integrifolius, which grows at 3000-4000 m in the Himalaya), while the larger species occur in scrub and woodland gaps at lower altitudes." 4000 meters is over 13,000 feet! Here are copy/paste links to some good info that may help you in the future. High Altitude Evergreen Shrubs http://www.denverplants.com/hialt/eshrub.htm High Altitude Deciduous Shrubs http://www.denverplants.com/hialt/dshrub.htm And hereÂs another list I found listing shrubs by altitude http://denver.yourhub.com/Evergreen/Stories/Home-Garden/Story~318807.aspx I also checked my Western Garden Book, and both your Cotton-Easter :-)  acutifolius, Peking Cotoneaster, and your Cornus albus are shown as Sunset zone 1, which is the coldest zone they have and includes places like Leadville! I think youÂre way out of luck with the rhododendron, but if you want to check it out further, check with Kelly at Timberline some day (call before you come all the way down to be sure heÂs there, itÂs Kelly GrummonsÂtell him I sent you!!!). If anybody knows if thereÂs one that will grow in Nederland, he will! Since you get a lot of snow out there, I think you could grow more of the things that are shown for lower altitudes if theyÂre gonna be put in a place where you usually get all winter snow cover. Remember, when things are buried in snow, the temp never gets below 32 for them. I do think you might have some trouble with the dry winds, but so would everybody else out here, so I say, go for it! And I donÂt think the difference between 8000 and 8250 would make any differenceÂespecially since you donÂt positively know just exactly how high you areÂand since micro climates can vary so much, at any altitude. If youÂre ever wondering about specific altitudes for perennials, I have a list showing altitudes up to 10,000' for perennials, so just ask if youÂre wondering about something specific. If youÂre ever over at PaulinoÂs, ask at the "front desk" for a copy of the perennial high altitude list and see if they can still find it and if theyÂll make a copy for you. We used to keep those things with us outside and hand them out when I was there, but I donÂt know whatÂs happened in the last many years! (If John SmithÂyeah, reallyÂis at the desk, heÂll know what youÂre talking about!) And if you donÂt already have a copy of the Western Garden Book, itÂs a GREAT reference, and I highly recommend getting one. ItÂs...

It's up! DH showered in there last night ("his" bathroom is still down to the studs and beams!)--said it was much roomier inside, even with the further in placement of the bar. That's good since we really couldn't place the bar any further out with the spacing of the tub and toilet. We were trying to cover as much of the bottom edge tub with the curtain as possible, while trying to avoid having the bar look too low in relation to the ceiling. We moved the tension rod up and down a bit in order to determine bar height. I think I'd have preferred the curtain to come down a little lower at the bottom, but compromised, in order to keep the rod itself at a visually appealing or proportionate height. It's all about trade-offs and compromises with this stuff as we have found time and time again. As it is, I think the rod height and the height of the curtain hem off the floor (on ours) are pretty much where one of the how-to sites recommended, so there you go! Thanks for your advice jacobse and John!

The height of a shower rod relative to the position of a tub is largely a matter of use and desired effect. Some shower curtains extend almost entirely to the floor while others drop just below the rim of an attractive claw foot tub. What is certain is the shower curtain liner needs to hang down into the tub below its rim so water does not splash onto the floor. Hanging a Shower Rod Shower curtains are commonly 6 feet in length from top to bottom. They are made longer as well. For custom bathtub designs, their length can vary greatly. If you are installing the shower rod anew and need to know where to hang it, the first thing to do is measure the length of the liner. If it is 6 feet long, figure that it should hang below the rim of the tub at least 5 inches. That means the rod should be placed 5 feet 7 inches from the top of the tub. However, consider the difference between the rod placement and where the liner attaches to the curtain rings. If the liner dangles 2 inches below the rod, you can add that to the height of the rod, placing it 5 feet 9 inches above the tub. The curtain also requires some consideration. It should not drag along the floor; rather, it should be at least 2 inches above it when hanging. If you want to showcase a claw foot tub, hang the curtain just a few inches below the rim of the tub. Here is a link that might be useful: shower rods

Dragonflygirl girl, in my experience, water pressure in the water coming out of the pipe no longer has much influence on how ”hard” the water falls in a rainhead. My thinking is that the water ”uses up” some of the kinetic energy it gained from being under pressure in the pipe in the effort to spread out in the 12” diameter rain head. I don’t think having the water in the pipe until it is closer to your head matters much for pressure. In cold weather, though, I think that it does have a noticeable influence on the temperature of the water that hits your body. I might seriously consider a longer down pipe.