HOW MUCH ! I wish I would have seen your post before you paid that. The guy @ the shop was full Of S*@%. Sorry for the language but I get very upset when I hear about an unscrupulious/ dishonest Mechanic. If your car came into my shop and we did the same work, You would be out of there for under $ 400.00 and @ that price I'm still making a few bucks. But when one of these so called Pros rips off an unsuspecting consumer, it just gives HONEST MECHANICS another black eye. I've attached a listing for a Catalytic converter ,that fits your car, from one of my suppliers. This is one of 4 suppliers that I can get these from. I am sorry that you where taken for a ride but hopefully it won't happen again. Good luck ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ 1995 Lexus ES300 Catalytic Converter $155.99 Engine: IMZFE Engine Year Range: 1994 - 1996 Brand: DEC Notes: Direct Fit Catalytic Converter Unit Shipping Options: Overnight, 2-Day or Ground OEM Converters View All Exhaust Catalogs

I've had some repairs on my Wolf Stove. Luckily it was covered under pre warranty and post warranty *purchased extended warranty*. I'd be scared to even wonder what a visit/part would cost. Don't really need appliances repaired but I just brought a Miele Vac to get repaired. This was their top of the line unit about 6-7 years ago....Miele Mystic Gray. Just got a quote back to repair it. $60 for labor , $15 estimate fee (hopefully to be applied to repair) and I'm not sure how INFLATED it is, but $130 for the part. All in all, I was expecting a simple part - maybe half of what the repair costs is. Something about the contact pin where the roller is where the cord winds up. Just digressing but I'm just curious what ya'll experience has been. Cars - depending on make/model - u have to pay to play and I expect problems / if not $$ expensive problems out of warranty. Hell, even my $$ rotary nozzle for the pressure washer. They only have a limited # of hrs on it before you need to rebuild the nozzle. The rebuild kit for the damm nozzle is $10-$15 less than buying a brand new nozzle.

Again, a video clip would help a lot with diagnosing from afar. Maybe you have a friend who could do it? "loud heavy metal banging sound" Next thing I'd suggest is check for a broken/worn basket drive block. Remove the agitator. Look at top of the neck of the basket. There's a large locknut that anchors the basket to the drive block. You can see only the top of the block, the rest of it is beneath inside the basket neck. The top of it has two notches that mate to ears on the spin drive tube. The block can wear such that it no longer fits tightly, slips on the ears. The ears on the drive tube can also wear down or chip, further contributing to the slippage. Pictures can now be included directly in posts here. Maybe you can provide a picture?

Well there's pros and cons to anywhere you're going to put it. The con of putting it in a closet is that when there is a problem with it, there may not be enough room to work on it to repair it. So you want to pay more every time the air handler needs repair? Like say for example the air handler has to be removed to get at it? (They don't last forever.) Additionally there are people who do not want to hear the system cycling on and off, because the system wakes them up in the middle of the night. Then if the system includes a gas furnace there are safety concerns to contend with. The need of combustion air to function properly, the flue almost always goes thru an opening up into the attic touching combustible materials which in my neck of the woods a code violation. Even in the instance a system is installed in a closet down in my neck of the woods... the ducts are still run in the attic. Why? Because the architect is responsible for designing the home and in most cases they never give enough room for the HVAC system let alone the duct work. Realize I don't build the house, I repair and work with what I have to work with... nothing more. I can't let the house defeat me. Given that, if the ductwork you install is R8 flex and you have the room to separate the ducts there is rarely any problem with such a set up. The heat gain or heat loss thru the R8 duct is less than 2 degrees in most cases and that includes long duct runs.