I looked at many types of LED under cabinet lighting, bought some and returned it, read reviews for hours and searched online. I came to the conclusion that these Quoizel tape lights are the sturdiest and easiest to install and that is what we are using. On one side of the kitchen the thin wire with the plug will go up inside the cabinet and plug in he receptacle in the cabinet where the microwave plugs in. On the other side we are putting a new receptacle above the sink and will plug them in there as not to have plug in wires visible on the backsplash. Here is a link that might be useful: Quoizel tape lights

That is probably about 5800 watts. If they are the typical 12V strips, that is 483 amps. Very large wire required, and short runs. If you try to run all of them off of one power supply, you will need much larger wire than a typical home main service. No, you cannot daisy chain these. Even putting two 5m strips in series is a doubtful proposition. I don't have any idea what you are trying to implement, but I suggest that you have a number of power supplies each local to a group of strips, and run the 120V for the long distances, not the 12V.

There are other sources - superbrightleds.com, etc. The low voltage wiring should be 16 or 18 gauge wire. All the interconnecting wiring will be low voltage. Always plan on having low voltage wiring run directly from the transformer(s) to each zone. Daisy chaining should be avoided if possible 1. To ensure that a failure in one section will not result in a major failure. 2. The voltage drop may be too great at the daisy chain end. Another thing - flexible lighting should be handled with care as the LEDs are surface mounted onto flexible printed circuit boards. Flexible LEDs make sense if you intend to attach the strips onto curved surfaces. They only bend in the y axis.

Can you please further explain this: "- The LED's are typically wired with a few (2-4) wired in series with a current limiting resistor and then blocks of those in parallel with the power supply voltage. The end result is that if an LED fails, only a few LED's might go out, the bulk of the LED strip still works, complete replacement is rarely needed." My undercab lights will be in an L shape + one section - There is romex on one end of the L that goes to a jbox in the crawl. I was going to connect the LED strip to that romex using a shallow undercab box. - There is romex in the single section. that goes to the same jbox in the crawl. I was going to connect that LED strip to that romex using a shallow undercab box. - There is romex for one of the 4 way switches under the cab that goes to the same J box in the crawl. I was going to move this to an adjacent J box in the crawl because I think this switch will be line voltage, where the above romex will be low (12 or 24) voltage, and the driver can be mounted in the crawl between them. Your idea about the driver in the top of the cabs is good but they did not rough it in that way, so it is too late now. Crawl is encapsulated, conditioned and accessible, so it will work just as well.