"I think there is only one way to install the king metal components. Is there a method that is best?" King makes many any styles. Some are NOT allowed in residential (like the cable systems a child could climb or fit their head/body through). Without more detail about EXACTLY what you are trying to do, no one can give you useful advice. The best method for ANY newel post is to bolt it solidly to the side of a joist. If a joist is not in the correct spot, blocking is added to create a mounting surface as deep as the joist. Any type of toe-nailing, tow screwing, etc. or fastening to the floor or subfloor (no mater how many brackets you use) is markedly weaker. You have a solid post 3-4 feet high making a nice lever to apply loading to the fasteners. How much force will a 150 pound person create on the fasteners when they 'spin' around the newel holding with one hand?

I'm redoing my stairs to have oak treads, oak handrails, and wrought iron balusters. This is the basic idea of my stair layout and what I want to do. First 9 steps are open on the left and last 6 steps are closed on both sides. I've got the treads and risers installed, and it's time for the handrails and balusters. The instructions I've found on the web for installing wrought iron balusters all assume a remodel, keeping the existing railing and just swapping out the balusters. That way you've already got aligned holes and it's a relative piece of cake. What I need help with: 1. How do I cut the handrail so it's got the right angle between the top wall and the bottom newel post? Do I lay the bannister along the front edges of the treads, use that as my angle, and then just raise it up 34-38" and attach it to the wall and newel? Easier way? 2. How do I align the holes in the treads and bannister? Can I install the bannister first, then drill the hole in the tread, use a level to make it plumb into the top, and then use a jig spacer from there? Easier way? 3. I need flat shoes to cover the holes in the treads. What about the holes in the underside of the bannister? You can buy angled shoes, but they are 45 degrees, and my bannister won't be at exactly a 45 degree angle. Do I omit shoes on the top? If so, how do I cover the ugly hole/epoxy? 4. On the upper (closed) portion of the stairs, the PO never installed a handrail. The easiest fix would be to add a wall portion with returns on top and bottom. But in reading the stair code, I think I am supposed to make the whole thing continuous, i.e., jog the handrail in when it hits the wall, then continue it on up to the top. Can I get away with a discontinuous one? I'm having a hard time envisioning how the balusters would work if I did the bendy one (i.e., can I maintain the

CPartist sorry I delayed in my response. Lost track of things. So much is going on with the house now things are absolutely crazy. I told the guy to do the balusters like the last pic. The posts are in but the rail won't be installed until next week since the painter wants to get his work done first. Here is are updated pics: Michael: Like chartist said you will get more help on your own thread since the experts will write. I'm a novice. If you want my personal opinion I do much prefer the new layout to the old one. The diagonal wasted a lot of space in the entry and also seemed a bit off. My husband and I love the 180 deg turn stairs like you are now showing. We would have used those if they worked with our plan. The basement (?) door and closet door open into each other now which doesn't seem ideal- will you be using that closet a lot or rarely? I see you added the entry closets by the door like we did. If you want to see how that ends up looking:

I have the same question. I saw a photo of a flat round shoe but haven't been able to find them. what did you end up doing?