It was mentioned in one previous response that the pitch would need to be 1/8" or ". That is an incorrect statement. Code requires that all lines less than 3" diameter require a ¼" per foot pitch. A 3" line may be run with a 1/8" per foot pitch under special circumstances but it requires a written approval of the inspector. We do not know the position of the existing drain. It may be directly behind the laundry sink with the washing machine discharging into the sink or there may be a standpipe riser either between the sink and washer or perhaps behind the washer. We know from the post that the room is 6Â8" (80") end to end. Assuming the washer & dryer to be the standard 28" the combined width of the washer and dryer is then 56" which leaves 24" for the laundry sink thus the drain opening for the sink should be at 12". If the washer is connected to a standpipe, that standpipe could be on the right hand side of the washer which would then only be approximately 28" from the right hand wall on the other hand the washer could be discharging into the sink and the drain is directly behind the sink so the overall distance from the right hand wall to the drain opening would then be 68". Allowing 4" for the thickness of the wall and estimating another 2 to the kitchen sink drain location we get 24" + 4" = 28" thus the proposed drain line could be as short as 56" or it could be as long as 96". Next we would need to know the diameter of the existing drain line. Although the plumbing codes now requires that a laundry standpipe must be a 2" diameter line, formerly they only required an 1-1/2". On the other hand, a washing machine may discharge into a laundry sink, which is only required to have a 1-1/2" line so we could either just the laundry sink or we could have both an 1-1/2" standpipe and the laundry sink connected to an 1-1/2" line. Under the IRC an laundry sink is rated at 2DFUÂs (Drainage fixture Units) and a laundry standpipe is rated at 2DFUÂs thus if the washer discharges into the sink and the sink is the only fixture on the drain line the load on that line is presently 2DFUÂs however in which case we could add the kitchen sink which is also rated at 2DFUÂs. On the other hand if they currently have both a standpipe and the sink the combined load is 4DFUÂs and 4DFUÂs is the maximum load permitted on a vertical 1-1/2" line, which means we cannot add the kitchen sink. Assuming for the moment that the washer is draining into the sink and we can add the kitchen sink to the vertical riser we have another problem. The kitchen sink also requires an 1-1/2" drain line, however if the overall developed length of the horizontal 1-1/2" line measured from the kitchen sink trap weir to the riser exceeds 6 we will need to add a vent within 6 of the sink, fortunately the IRC permits an unlimited number of AAVÂs (air admittance valves) so we could install a Studor vent on the kitchen sink waste arm. If this location is under the Uniform Plumbing Code the code restrictions are much more stringent. As you can see, we would need much more information than what is currently available in this post to make an actual determination if this project if feasible.

Have you had your septic pumped in the last few years or so? If not, do so then see if it still happens. Years ago before we had new sewer infrastructure installed in our neighborhood my house was on a septic tank and there was a sump in the yard that pumped the effluent out to a drain field. My pump failed and I didn't know it. A flush or a quick shower somehow managed to flow on its own but a large amount of water like from a washer draining was too much for it without the pump and since the water couldn't get out to the drain field it went the path of least resistance, right up through the floor drain into the basement as fast as it came out of the washer. So if you don't have a sump then the next logical thing is that there is no room in your tank to handle the influx of water and it is taking the path of least resistance, the floor drain. ETA: Don't know why but I got the idea you had a septic tank. If that is not the case I apologize. However, the same thing could be happening if you're on city sewage and there is some sort of blockage (ie. roots) in your lateral line to the main sewage line. Small amounts of water may be able to seep through but a large influx at once would back up and come up the floor drain. This post was edited by jackieblue on Sat, Nov 23, 13 at 11:30

This is what I see. 1 - It might be a 2" connection for a sink drain or shower drain, or a drain and a vent. A toilet would require a 3" drain fitting and a 1.5" or 2" vent. 2 - Probably a 2" floor drain, with an air admittance valve for a vent. 3 - 3" drain pipe from bath above. Unusual because it does not have a cleanout in the pipe. How would you snake out a clog? It may be just a vent pipe, but that would not require a 3" pipe. 4 - 3" drain from two toilets above. May be the main plumbing stack. 5 - 3" drain pipe that appears to also serve as a water softener drain (can't really see for sure). Sump pump next to it. I would pull off the caps shown in picture 1 and try to figure out where they go. Then pour some water down them and see whether they drain. Look for your main water shutoff valve inside the house and try to determine if the main sewer pipe also comes in under that wall. Installing both (water in and sewer out) along the same path is fairly common. Then look at the other three 3" stacks and try to figure out how they might connect to the main pipe. That may give you an idea of what is under the slab and where you could connect new drains. Bruce

I have excellent news the panel is being moved out of the bar area!! So I’m giving away the upper cabinets and now trying to decide on a tiny budget what to do. We’re thinking of just leaving the brown granite and cherry color lowers for now and repair the wall and paint it a charcoalyblue in the two walls of the nook. We’ll see how that looks then add open shelves of some sort for liquor bottles and limited glassware. The flooring isn’t going to change bc we just don’t want to spend more than an arbitrary 5k here, so I’m curious if you have opinions on wall color, possssinly cabinet colors, wall treatments? I wondered how a cool wallpaper might look on this 14 foot wall. (I don’t like how the long wall would only have a treatment where bar is(