"never heard of Ditra! glad i'm on here. I expect there is a pine board subfloor under there somewhere. I intend to reuse it. The ditra just goes on top of that, right?" Unfortunately, no. Pine boards, though probably pretty darn stable by now, can still move a bit either through flex or seasonal humidity changes. So you need a transition material between the planks and the cement board or Ditra. That transitional material is usually plywood. If using SLC, a typical flow would be: Your pine planking, fasten it down securely. Then 1/2" plywood over that, then set your heating mats. Then use a garden sprayer to spray the SLC primer on the subfloor and heating wires. You don't need to use a garden sprayer, but it does coat everything very nicely. Then SLC. Then you can tile right over the SLC, or Ditra over the SLC and tile over the Ditra. I do recommend a self-leveling material over the radiant wires. It simply makes it easier to get a nice level surface upon which to tile. Some folks set the wire mats in place then trowel thinset over the mat, trying to get it fairly flat. Sometimes it works, sometimes they end up with incomplete coverage, a honeycomb of voids, and/or a messy and unflat surface. That will frustrate you when it comes time to tile. SLC is not mandatory by any means. But if your ability to trowel thinset into a nice flat surface is somewhat challenged, then using SLC can make your life a little easier. If you use SLC, realize...as the name implies, it is "self-leveling". It will flow wherever you allow it to flow. Through cracks in the floor, down the toilet waste flange, under the baseboards. So you need to contain it from flowing wherever you do not want it to go. And don't forgo a bonding primer for the SLC. The primer helps it adhere to the subfloor. If you do use SLC, have all your ducks in a row. Have a helper. Once you start you don't stop midway through the job. Lastly, whatever method you use: If you use cement board, the cement board gets a coat of thinset between it and whatever it goes over. So many people omit that step and it results in cracked grout and lose tiles a few years down the road. The thinset isn't there to bond the cement board to the plywood beneath it. The fasteners (screws or nails) do that. The thinset simply acts as a setting bed to provide complete contact between the cement board and the plywood underneath it, so there is no vertical movement between the two when the floor is walked upon. I won't really critique your work flow because we all have different methods of working. But how about ventilation? Any bathroom vent?

Ouch. Assumings facts are as presented, neither side held to the contract during the build. Of course, a lot depends on the type of contract and just how specific it was in detail. It would appear that there was poor planning and a lack of oversight during the build (such as the need for another furnace determined *after* installation), payment for which should have been covered in the contracted details, as well as what sounds to be disregard for the contract -- "wrong" shower door installed by builder but buyer did not follow up on correction. A lot of the counter-claims are dependent entirely on the contract. If neither the contract nor the agreed-upon specs list specified model #xyz shower door, then the builder is not required to provide that model. A change-order would have clarified the requirement and the payment. If there is no change-order, the implication is that the builder appropriately provided a shower door as stated in the contract, but not a particular model# because none was stated. If the specification *was* covered, then it seems to become a case of the builder not abiding by contract. And so on, right down the list. So, yes, I join with others in thinking a lawyer is needed to protect the buyer's interests while clarifying the actual status of the charges. Builder can list and claim all the "up-grades" he wants to, but if they weren't specified in the contract or in a signed change-order it is likely to be viewed that he made the changes on his own cognizance and the buyer is not responsible for payment over the contracted amount; this applies to everything that was not specifically stated in the contract -- including re-painting. It would be nice to adhere to word-of-mouth-and-a-handshake, but it's rarely realistic or sensible to do so -- and if handshakes were thought to be realistically binding, there would never have been a contract in the first place. Without having written word, signed in agreement by all concerned parties, we are looking at a situation of he said/she said/I said/you said and the clarification, justification, and solution of the disagreement will most often involve legal staff. For those who consider it justified criticism to say that many GW posters leap to advising litigeous solutions, please consider that "good" builds don't need such solutions; and that "bad" or problematic builds all too often DO need the direct advice of a person knowledgeable of the laws of the OP's area -- which the GW posters realize may differ from their own area.

I disagree with hollysprings. The installer generally knows how much overage to allow for edges and pattern, but the people in stores can and do make those calculations too. They haven't seen the space and may allow a bit extra to make sure there isn't something they aren't seeing that would require a bit extra, but 9 boxes is extreme. I have always checked the calculations myself. Stores that are doing the installation (carpet) can be bad about over ordering, and on a 12 foot roll, you pay a lot for the extras. You get nap that doesn't match if they under order. I would make a BBB claim and let them help you try to get your refund, then file with Angie's and any others based on what is or isn't resolved, noting the errors and extreme rudeness. Anything you post doesn't need to be nearly that long -- just that they did the calculation and over ordered the field tile by 9 boxes, ordered the wrong trim, under ordered the grout, charged restocking fees on their over order and wrong order, and were rude beyond belief about it all. A couple of lines says it all and makes you appear far less emotional and more credible.

Deedles, the uneven cabinets is not my favorite, but short of putting the range in the hall (DH is against this) or removing all the ducting to move the sink (pipe access blocked by ducting) it is the best I can do. Not that big a sacrifice considering the rest is working out pretty well. Function is definitely my priority over form in this small space! Oldbat2be, I love your kitchen! It's a great use of space, but I'm short and clumsy so I fear I would stretch over the 30 inch counter and accidentally knock the extinguisher back into the cubby! I think the small double angle corner upper will house our extinguisher. It's even on the way to the exit as recommended! I'll have to get a hanging tag to identify the location, but after that thread a while back it was definitely in my mind! A2gemini, I'm excited too! We discussed the 12 inches to the left of the range, debating between 9 and 12. The cabinet company actually has been doing full kitchen remodels in our area for 40 years (specialize in kitchens). I hope they would have advised me about any code restrictions there, but I will ask! After reading here the past several months I'd definitely rather check now! I think drawers under the Advantium will work well. It is 19 inches tall if I remember right, so plenty of space above for unruly large items! May_flowers, I did sketch that up at one point. It actually worked pretty well, but didnt get the fridge out of the eating area so clearance was still an issue, and DH didn't want the range in the walkway, which I can understand. Looks like things are closing in. Thanks so much for pushing me to consider things from all angles, I really appreciate the suggestions. Any additional comments are welcome!