Sun requirement for approximately 14" seedling American larch?
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French & British Apples - Heat & Sun Sensitivity
Comments (17)I believe a caonopy absorbs much more UV than clouds. No one ever got a sunburn while sitting under a shady tree. There is tremendous growth in a rainforest during weather with almost constant cloud cover. In my zone I've found enough overlap between earliest and latest varieties that I don't even worry about the issue anymore. The further south you go the less overlap and the longer the overall blooming period. Scott mentions Roxbury Russet, which is another interesting cooking variety originating in the northeast. Also very good eating. It is a very reliable cropper (in the sunny conditions I've always grown it) and somehow less attractive to coddling moth and wasps than other Russets like Golden and Hudson's Golden Gem. That is in my area- who knows about how these pests act elsewhere? I have a client couple that makes huge quantities of apple sauce that considers RR inexpendable in their blend that also includes Spy and Baldwin. Not sure if the texture holds up real well, though. My memory suggests pretty well....See MoreFAQ Version 3.0
Comments (7)Jodik says: The coir might look dry on top, but down in the center of the pot, it could be quite moisture-laden! I have found it helpful to insert little wooden skewers carefully into the soil to about root level, and leave them there... I take them out and press them against my cheek to test for dampness... if they feel at all damp, I wait to water... but if the skewer comes out dry, it's time to water. My coir is 4" deep in a closed pot. I put the skewer to the bottom of the pot. When I take it out how many inches of bone dry top "soil" should there be before it's time to water again? Is it 1", 2" or 4"? I just went 10 days without water and only 1" of the top was dry so am I supposed to water this direct sun pot once every two weeks or so to avoid over watering, really? And how much water for my 6" closed pot? I had been watering 1 1/2 cup or so once a week and my plant was fine but I'm now worried that was too much so I'm re-evaluating. I know what conventional wisdom says (water deep, not shallow) but that advice doesn't seem to apply to my situation. Also how long should it be before I see new leaf growth in the summer time (first season outside)? My 18 month old Red Lion so far has only grown new leaves once a year. At potting and at dormancy end....See MoreAmerican Elms in Australia
Comments (27)Yes but tropical trees rarely change colour in the autumn, and they rarely make elm shaped leaves. A couple of people have mentioned acacias. No way. Like I said, they're ugly and dead and dry looking for 11/12 months of the year. I was quite particular about the American elm for a couple of reasons. First, because I have a sentimental attachment to the tree. Second, because nothing really compares. If an alternative tree has the right habit, it'll have the wrong leaves. If a different tree has the right colour leaves, it'll have a completely different growth habit. The tree, as far as I can tell, is in a class of its own. The only thing that comes close, imo, is the English elm. But I don't want an English elm, I want an American elm damnit! lol I have exams on at the moment. When they finish I'm gonna go for a drive to Canberra to get some cuttings and to hunt for seeds. If they take I'll update you all. If not, I think I might just buy one from these folks. I reckon that'll be expensive though :\ http://www.establishedtrees.com.au/...See MoreSeedling search: Hybrid larch
Comments (29)Thanks Spruce. I've been known to hold plants so as to try and match up with a rain. I've also taken the step of having the forester order up an inch of rain per week and moderate temperatures for next year! This whole thing represents a departure for me-from my first plantings there in which I would hand-dig holes, mulch with woodchips and yes, even do some initial watering as best I could. I also used to trim around my trees and spray glyphosate rings. The trend has been away from all of that finally arriving at this machine-plant operation I've got lined up. Forester is not the guy I originally worked with, that guy retired, and this one was much less willing to reimburse me for my cadillac methods. Initially, I was peeved. I'd expected, and documented work hours to the tune of something like $1500 that year of transition. His offering was something like $150! But once we met up there and got talking, I decided his ideas had merit. Among them, the machine, which he says will do a really good job and a tighter stocking rate than I'd been doing, to allow for losses. Obviously, mulching will too be out of the question. When I began, that planting area was alfalfa. He said that a corn crop in the prior year would in effect give one year of free weed control, so when my farmer guy wanted to do corn, I said sure. He's into Roundup Ready which I do realize there is considerable legitimate question about, but I do think in the case of this planting, it too should be helpful. And while that area is at the very north limit of meaningful agriculture in this state, it is interesting to note that the corn up there did great, my field included, unlike the major growing areas further south. He's also big on an over the top herbicide spraying in year two, which I will also look into. There's guys that contract work like that out. I don't recall the chemical off the top of my head but I've got it here somewhere. All in all, this is a much bigger scale planting method. But for what I'm trying to accomplish, it sounds good. +oM...See MoreUser
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