No Maria, you've got to cut back more until you have good green viable stem. And as Jeff (CactusMcHarris) has said you don't need anything on the cut end. I leave cutting in warm indirect light sometimes for weeks and they just root from the natural humidity in the air. Having said this, it might not happen in very low humidity areas, but here in Michigan we almost always have 40% ~ 50% RH. I just cut this from one of my Echeveria to demonstrate what you want to see after cutting. I would allow my cutting to callous for at least a week until I see the cut end dry and looking like a callous on your hand or foot; it will look hard and dry and somewhat rough. The mix is something I make but you don't have to have the same thing. Again, as Jeff has said, Perlite is readily available at any Big Box store or Garden Center. Do NOT use regular sand because it packs down too much and dries slowly. If you have a problem finding something course or gritty, go to a pet store/Walmart/Target and ask for bird gravel; the stuff used on the bottom of a bird's cage that they eat to help digest food. It will be a bit pricey but if all you need is a small quantity, it will work. I'm personally not a fan of "Topsoil" as a portion of my mix because it won't dry quickly for me.

We can't tell, but its not dead yet. The best thing you can do for it now is to place it on top of soil-not buried, and leave it alone for a few weeks.

Hi, I see that many of your Crassulaceans (Sedums, Echeverias, etc.) are severely etiolated. Obviously they are in desperate need of increased light, but your setup seems sufficient. Do you know how potent your growing lamps are? How many hours per day they are on? How close they are to each plant? Knowing this would help because this seems to be a light issue over anything else. Do you have access to windowsills or the outdoors? All of my succulents are faced to western or southern windows (inside), and there have been no light problems (and I'm on the East Coast!). Also, you should not worry about overwatering-- it all depends on your soil mixture. Bonsai Jack (which you had mentioned) has a great gritty mix that was designed for succulents. It is good for beginners, as it is almost impossible to overwater while using it. Using your current setup, do NOT fertilize. Never fertilize when the plants are not getting sufficient sun, as they will grow more etiolated without proper light conditions. And in regards to the C. lehmanii, it is normal for it not to look instantly better overnight. I have many mesembs, and watering when they are severely wrinkled is a gradual process. They must have continual soakings (but let the pot air out before each one) to be restored back to turgidity.

Your roots look ok. I would not use just any bark of any tree. You need to buy orchid bark. Can you buy online? Alternatively, you can keep it in moss, but should transplant into a terra cotta pot with drainage. Where in the world do you live? What are your growing conditions? Here is a culture sheet for Phals which may help you understand your plant's needs http://www.aos.org/orchids/culture-sheets/novice-phalaenopsis.aspx ETA: don't spray with peroxide or use cinnamon right now. One thing at a time. If you choose to repot, cut the bloom stem and dust cinnamon on the end. Then repot. Find a spot in your home or outside with temps 60-80F with 50% or more humidity in bright, indirect light. See how it responds. Keikis are not desired - that means the plant is dying.