If you only have a 1/8" gap yo do not need a filler. However this depends on how the fridge is mounted to the cabinets. I would check with you GC on that since they are familiar with the design.

Cabinet depth fridges do look better since they do not stick out. It also helps with traffic flow since you may need a clearance between the fridge and other cabinets or an island. They usually move the compressor to the top of the fridge giving you about the same about of storage depth as a shorter fridge that sticks out into the room.

Thank you for your reply. I'm a little unclear. Did you mean it depends on how they are going to install the cabinet above the fridge to the pantries on either side?

Unfortunately with the fridges I've been looking at in the fridge that I own I will lose about 7 cubic speak with a counter depth! You are saying that 1/8 inch is appropriate on either side? According to the manuals they prefer more space on some of the refrigerators but I think some people might think it's not as much a built-in book. Also, trying to pull it out and get it back in seems difficult with 1/8 inch I don't want to regret either way. Thank you

I always defer to the manufacturer's recommendations. Most of the built in appliance breath at the top or bottom and not the sides. Yours could be different. I would check with the vendor you are purchasing them from and also make sure the GC installs the cabinets to accommodate your selection.

Most of the counter-depth fridges with which I am familiar are taller than 72". That is how they get the additional cubic footage. This would affect the cabinet above, if you plan to later buy a counter-depth fridge. Check the height of the Subzero, Bosch, etc.

A good place to search is AJMadison. Search for fridges that are less than 25" deep. Some companies describe deeper fridges as "counter-depth" when they are deeper than 25" and, obviously, will protrude beyond the counters.

Well the fridge manual will tell you how much space is needed for proper install and IMO you better follw the spacing or your fridge will no longer have a warranty. There is no way you would lose 7 c ft of space in a fridge I have found most counter depth fridges have about 10% less storage and all of that storage is actully perfect with no lost stuff hiding in the back of the fridge growing mould, The door will always have to be able to open which means it is ahead of the cabinets by the thickness of the door. So some companies give the max depth including the handle. So you have make sure to look at the schematic for the fridge.

Thank you. Dimensions and specs on mini fridges Shrek beat that is said to be within the fridges. I understand that that sometimes includes the ice boxes and other things which makes it more difficult to know how much does there really is in a fridge but I'm just going off of the cubic feet that is said to be in the fridge is. My current fridge I believe has 27.8 cubic feet and I've been looking at counter depth fridges that are between 20 and 22 cubic feet. Maybe because I'm starting off with such a large fridge or are you aware of other counter depth fridges with more capacity? I think I saw one with 23 but it sticks out past the countertops.. I went to a store to look at counter depth fridges and they are noticeably much smaller than my current fridge. Freezer also, some don't form a square carrier compressor must be on the bottom of some of them where the freezer boxes more like a v.

Most refrigerators specify 1/2" clearance on the sides, 2" clearance at the back, and a minimum of 1" at the top up to 2" at the top. You need to plan for your space to accommodate this. Most larger non-counter-depth refrigerators come in around the 69 1/2" to 70" and sometimes up to 71" mark in height. If you allow for a refrigerator of 71 3/8" in height, you will accommodate virtually all of the non-counter-depth refrigerators on the market. Past that height and you are mostly getting into the built-ins with panels. That means your cabinets need to be at least 72 3/8" high above the finished floor spot for the fridge to allow for a minimum of 1" in clearance, and that includes any light rail moldings you might have as trim. You can back it off to 72 1/4" cabinet clearance and still be okay for the vast majority of non-built-ins. If you don't allow proper clearances as stated by the refrigerator's spec manual, you could overheat and terminate the mechanics early. Many paneled and built-in refrigerators have tighter clearances because the heat is funneled through front, lower grates. As to counter-depth refrigerators, none of them have a lot of storage compared to non-counter-depth fridges. It's just how things work. Constantly going out to the garage for food would bother me, but if you have a large family and need extra storage for cold items you don't access regularly, then maybe that will work for you.

Belaria, Talk about thorough and helpful. Thank you! I how do you know so much about refrigerators?!

thankyou! So what we did was add 1/4" to each side of the cab above fridge and did not modify anything cuz they said we couldn't really, cuz we'd need new doors. I think we'd have 1/4" we could cut off the bottom of the cab if we had to some day, but with the expenses we will stick with our standard size fridge for a while and down the road when we get a new fridge i have found that there are many higher cubic feet (around 23 cub ft) fridges out there that aren't 71.875.

However, it's nice to have options, but I'm kinda glad I didn't get a different cab cuz the gap would've looked too big for now like u said and it'd be that way for a while. i didn't measure but it's a good 4" from top of frrige base and a few from the top of door. this is on concrete, though, and the vinyl floor I chose is now not being made so i'm back to trying to pick a new floor. the one I have to fall back on is pergo laminate so it's thicker, which I won't be able to fit the tall fridge for sure. what my GC said is if I get a skinny floor like vinyl I might be able to fit a 71.85 fridge if that's the fridge's max height (since the legs can raise the height?). Either way, there prob wouldn't be much room for breathing.

glad this part is done for now, anyway!

A scarce few non-built-in refrigerators are as high as 71.875". You'll cover the vast majority at 71.25" with an occasional one up to 71.375". Once into the 80" range they are mostly built-in. Don't worry about that gap. You can even ask your cabinetry maker to produce a filler piece if you want to place over the fridge, but you can also put decorative items there to fill in until you replace your appliance. Whatever refrigerator you buy, you'll want to read its own specification manual on clearances. If you don't allow enough, the motor can overheat and terminate its life early due to lack of adequate venting.

Now to nail down a floor. I'm still tempted to go with a vinyl floor because it's more waterproof but there does that allow for Less space for refrigerators and dishwashers. I also worry about pulling the fridge out and scratching the floor. For whatever reason this fridge is super hard to get in and out. Even the workers had a hard time with itit. In the end a lot of this will be a choice of elimination. Thank you!

In no way does a floor choice create less space for appliances. All cabinets should be placed at the finished floor height of whatever flooring material that you might choose. All measurements start and end with the high spot of the finished floor height.

There are very few standard refrigerators who won’t work with a standard 36” wide by 72” high refrigerator alcove. The reason that is standard is that it work with standard cabinet dimensions. With the bottom of the refrigerator cabinet being at 72”, you can use a standard 12” tall cabinet above to achieve the 84” above finished floor top alignment height. Always check appliance specifications first, before selection.

Prosource, appliances are bought. Bosch dishwasher, for example, run a bit taller than most I was told. We used to have a hard time getting it under the countertop but we had laminate so now with quartz we can't lift the countertop up to fit in underneath. i think the folks who did the countertop prior also just put laminate on the cabinets and so it did not have a board or something that goes underneath it this new kitchen r typical height cabs with 3m quarts and 1/8" glue to glue down quartz i'm told. flooring will go under where appliances go but not under cabs. I'm in AZ and this is how 90% of the people i've spoken with do flooring here.

That will raise the appliances so that there will be less room under a cab (for a fridge) or a countertop (for a dishwasher) if I go with laminate verses vinyl...

Bosch DWs fit in the same space as KitchenAid, GE, etc. We replaced a KA with a Bosch and it slid right in.

You need to install any new flooring before cabinets and appliances. If you don't run the flooring under the cabinets, you need to install plywood or other to raise the height for the floor under the cabinets to be the same as the finished flooring.

Finished flooring should go under the appliances so you don't see plywood (range, refrigerator, DW).

Next, install the cabinets and counters. The "alcove" height for all your under-counter appliances will now be sized correctly and all appliances should slide out easily.

Yes, you often need more than 1/8" on each side. As Patricia said, read the specs for the refrigerator you plan to go with...that's a decision that should have been made b/f finalizing the design and ordering your cabinets.