Kim, are these the ones you use? I keep mine next to my computer so that while I'm online I can make more--that doesn't mean I'm good about actually taking them outside and putting them on the roses!;) I get these at a local nursery, Mt. Fuji, in Upland, CA. On mine I write the name, class, date and name of breeder (plus country), and where and when I acquired the plant. For example for Europa's Rosengarten the label shows Europa's Rosengarten Floribunda 1989, Karl Hetzel (Germany) Eurodesert Roses, CA, 2011 Here are some plant markers/signs used by Rancho Santa Ana Botanic Garden in Claremont, CA. Btw I asked about the markers, and they told me that they try to always put the ones with the accession number on the south side of the plant. So if you really want to know what it is, search for that marker (sometimes 2 different kinds are used--one in the ground the other wired on the plant). The signs are more prominent and contain more info. The last 2 above were on the same plant of R. minutifolia. What I like about what they are using is the heaviness of the wire gauge. I'm looking to find a wire that is a bit more substantial than what came with the Cole's (very fine--sharp looking too for rose canes!) and yet is still flexible and easy to work with and will fit through the pre-punched holes. Melissa

if they are still outside, they are in the process of going dormant NOW. Roses in any pots usually do not do well outside because the root system is not insulated by the surrounding earth. I overwinter many dormant potted and tree roses in my garage, but it is not fully heated because I do not open the vents. At 35-40 degress, they have 99% survival rate. Can you open a window or something to keep it a smidge cooler. Dormancy also requires decreasing light. Try to mimic mother nature. And i would not judge anything by last winter. best luck and keep us posted

Container grown roses, whether own root or grafted, growing in a little band or a 2 gallon pot, is my preferred way to buy roses. The stress the rose experiences is minimalized when the roots are disturbed the least. Bare root roses have a more limited window to buy since they are shipped only when dormant and must be planted ASAP upon arrival. They usually produce a nice sized bush right away their first year. I have never seen bare root roses sold own root, always grafted onto a rootstock. Purchased locally is always preferable, you can see what you get, but the selection is usually greater through mail ordering. A special rose not available locally must be ordered in. Container grown roses usually come in bands or gallon pots through the mail, and in 1, 2 gallon or larger, locally. Although this is off subject, the smaller the rose, band size, although needing a bit more TLC than bigger stock, will equal or even outstrip a larger rose in just a couple year's. Whenever the choice over size is an option I opt for the smaller size. You save a little brass, too. Edmund's, Regans, Jackson and Perkins, and White Flower Farms are some bare root rose sources. Roses Unlimited, Chamblee Roses, Heirloom and Burlington Roses are some container rose sources. Some of the above sources sell both bare root and container roses. David Austin, USA, also sells bare root and container roses by mail. They all have online catalogs\contact info.

I over winter them in my z4 area by digging a trench in my veg. garden a couple inches wider & deeper than the diameter of the pot they're in, lay them in the trench on their sides & cover them up with the soil I dug out to make the trench. Have very good results using this method. NOTE...I use plastic pots & they can stay in the pot over winter but if you use clay or ceramic pots, take them out of the pots because these materials can't take freezing.