'Well rooted' is most of the time relative and subjective but if the rooted cutting has good fibrous roots beyond those white brittle roots then,if I was in your place, I will move it 2~3+ quart pot and cover it with a plastic bag dome for a few days (for humidity) until the leaves are erect again and then gradually wean it off the dome if you see that the roots are sustaining the leaves OK. Then gradually introduce it to more light. Once introduced to sun light inside, direct sun light inside should not cause problem if you keep an eye on its development (i.e. putting it back in humid environment if you find that the root system cannot yet supply enough moisture to keep the leaves erect). The sun light and heat inside the house depends on your location. In my location in Zone 5 I do not have problem in keeping established rooted plants in direct sunlight.

Sandra, Congratulations on rooting your rose! That's a very nice cutting you have. I hope this is the beginning of many more successes for you. If this was my rose, I would leave it in its current container until it shows realy nice root growth ... enough to hold the root ball together during transplanting. Then you can repot it in the container of your choice, or directly into the garden if the weather is moderate enough. Connie

I don't know if you can see in the photo, but the root that is branching on the left side actually has a pretty clean break a quarter of the way down from the top. I was moving it around a few months back before it grew any of those branches and must have knocked it accidentally. I thought it would be a goner because the broken root was hanging on by just a thread, but I let it be anyway. Lo and behold, node after node grew on the side below the break and within a few months all the branches you see in that photo appeared! It's funny though, that break never stitched itself up. Any time I move it, it's really fragile and just flops around and I'm pretty worried it will break off someday, but it still acts like a healthy root and continues to grow nodes past the point that broke. I always wonder if I should tape it up or something... Not sure if that's a ridiculous idea. Thanks! It's so hard to find attractive and affordable orchid pots with holes. I got mine here and spray painted it matte white: http://www.shopterrain.com/product/gothic-arch-bowl If you have any suggestions for sites to buy orchid pots from, it is much appreciated!

Root rot is nasty. Avoid it at all cost. I would go 3 gallon next spring. Then early spring of 2019, before dormancy break, check the root mass. If it is pot bound, then trim/tease/slit the circling roots. It may not be pot bound, which is unlikely, but do this next step in either case. Plant in a ten gallon pot at this time, but only add soil enough to fill the pot to the 6-7 gallon mark, including the transplanted fig from the 3 gal. Pot. You are using a 10 gal. pot as a 6-7 gallon pot. The soil level of your fig in 2019 will be well below the pot rim by many inches. Always repot your fig with the soil line mark on the tree's trunk at the same place at soil level, no matter what size pot you use, or how low in the pot the fig sits. In early spring 2020, lift out your fig tree, if it is aggressively growing roots, then fill the bottom of the 10 gal. with enough soil to raise the soil level to the normal height for a 10 gal. pot, a couple inches below the pot's rim with the trunk's soil level mark right on target. In 2-3 years time, lift out your fig, and reduce both sides and bottom the root mass by 1/3 with a saw or sturdy serrated turkey carving knife, then repot with fresh soil. Do this every 2-3 years, ad infinitum. Moses