I have two ideas to add to tracie.erin's suggestion. The wall between kitchen and DR is gone in both. I use your existing appliances in Plan C but I'm suggesting different appliances in Plan D. Both plans provide landing space next to fridge and ovens (not across the aisle as in Plan B, the one I posted Sat, Oct 15, 11 at 13:38 but forgot to label as Plan B, oops!). I keep going back to variations of my first idea to keep the back door path free and clear, treating it more as a hallway than part of the kitchen. Much of this plan is as it was in previous plans, particularly the entry wall storage and beverage center. That said, you could create a beverage center in the U or between ovens and fridge. With the kitchen/DR wall gone, I expanded the kitchen into the DR, a little along the top wall and more along the bottom wall. It does make your dining area rather small, basically 125" x 115 1/2". It's large enough for a 42" round table - that's 4 seats (36" clearance between table and walls and LR opening - squeeze behind space - and 47" between table and peninsula - ample walk behind space). The fridge placement prevents a longer table. Given your need for a large dining space, you could treat this as a small sitting area and transform the LR into a DR. I don't know if resale is a concern for you but if it is, shrinking the DR to MOL an eat-in kitchen area may be a negative. The DR peninsula does *not* have seating. You don't have enough width to have table and counter seating in the same aisle. Here's my second idea. This plan presumes that you replace your 36" cook top and double ovens with a 30" double oven range and place it where I show the cook top (you gain a larger cab to its left). The other option is to replace your double ovens with 2 single ovens. Install one of the single ovens below the 36" cook top and install the other one below the counter next to the fridge. This plan preserves more of the DR. Final size is 12' 7-1/2" x 10' 5"), large enough for a 42" x 72" oblong table, which seats 6 with 36" between table and walls, 47" between table and peninsula and 43.5" between table and LR entry (walk behind clearance). This plan is also doable with your existing appliances but you lose the counter between fridge and ovens. You'd be back with the 12" pull out cab between them, which isn't a bad option. Both Plan C & Plan D could incorporate a corner sink instead. You swap more peninsula space for prep space between sink and cook top. Both Plan C & Plan D can be adjusted to allow for a wider DR. A banquette would help with space issues for both plans. Some people like banquettes, some don't. They are generally viewed as informal seating. I tried to come up with a pseudo galley plan - one long stretch of cabs and counters along the top wall and an equally long island with seating - but I kept hitting snags because your wall sections didn't jive with needs plus the window placement wasn't cooperating at all. Given your brick siding, I did not even consider a plan that would move the window. I started with the DOs just to the left of the back door with a long stretch of counter (76") between it and the fridge. Good so far. But not so good for the island. In order to get sink, DW and cook top there with counter between sink and cook top, I needed an island as long as the perimeter counter but the fridge's depth prevented me from doing so. Even if I went with only 40" aisle between seating and wall, I couldn't get more than 35" clearance between island and fridge, which isn't enough for a 36" deep fridge (you wouldn't have room to get it in place). If I deleted seating at the island, it was doable but that doesn't suit your needs. And the big downside of an island cook top is the cost of venting. It's much more expensive than perimeter venting. Costs would begin at $1000, easily, and go up from there. When I tried to move the cook top to the perimeter, between ovens and fridge, centered with 20" on each side, that put it partly below an operable window, which is against code in many places. Plus, IMO, it would look ugly, half in, half out, a mistake. Swapping out cook top and ovens for range didn't help. Even placing it right up at the edge of the window meant having only 4.5" between the cook top and fridge - bad, bad idea. The only way that I can see to do an island plan is as tracey.erin drew it - with fridge and ovens across a 48" and 54" aisle, respectively. A possible variation to her plan is to move the clean-up sink and DW to the island and put the prep sink on the cook top wall. You could then give yourself a bit more room between cook top and end of counter and have a nice long stretch of prep area between prep sink and cook top. I'd also add 12" cabinetry next to the fridge since you said storage is a must. Is moving the doorway to the FR absolutely off the table? Pity, because if you could move that doorway to the other side of the fridge in tracey.erin's plan, then you could add counter next to the ovens. Actually, I'd slide ovens to the corner and put counter between ovens and fridge. You could possibly even shorten perimeter and island to preserve more of your DR. Anything else I can think of increases your costs (like recessing fridge into LR wall, don't even know if that's possible). Here's how my plans rank from cheapest to most expensive: Plan A Plan B Plan C or Plan D with DOs, 12" pull out cab & fridge on bottom wall option Plan D

It would help if we had a better idea about the orientation of the rooms -- the space you have available. I agree with those who suggested you consider swapping the functions of the rooms -- make the existing dining room the TV viewing room and move the DR table to another room (LR or FR). Failing that, is it possible to extend the feed from the security cameras to a location where you would actually want to sit and watch TV? Failing that, could you purchase a nice tablet for hubby that he can have with him anywhere in the house, so he would have ready access to view the security feeds? After all, I would think the need to view those feeds is momentary at best -- watch a movie, pause the movie to check cameras for a second, return to movie -- right? He's not going to actually sit there and watch the feeds for any appreciable period of time, I would think (although my father can sit for appreciable periods of time watching the Weather Channel, so what do I know?).

Here's my 2 cents, as a designer with about 20 years experience. Furnishing a room begins with a PLAN. You start your plan by determining what you want to do in the room, which informs everything else. Is it a place for entertaining, eating, TV watching, study, sleeping, playing an instrument? Once you have the function pinpointed, you draw the room to scale, noting positions of every door, window, heating elements, electrical outlets, fireplaces, and anything else of a permanent nature that would affect furniture placement. You look for focal points, natural lighting and views to the outside and to other rooms. The next step is to determine the furniture layout, including upholstery, case goods, floor and wall coverings, and lighting fixtures, keeping in mind scale and proportion as you figure out sizes of furniture, clearances, walkways, sight lines, etc. Only after you have this "road map" for your room will you begin to look at styles, colors, patterns of textiles, window coverings, and furnishings. You take your road map on all shopping trips, as any furniture salesperson will ask "what size (rug, sofa, table, etc.) are you looking for?" If you don't have the answer at the ready, you will waste a lot of time. And the last item you choose before the "frills" is the paint color on the walls. It's easier to match a paint color to your palette than the other way around. The "frills" are the decorative accessories like ceramics, paintings, sculpture, photos, vases, etc. Keep in mind that a room is never totally "done." It will change as your needs change, and should be flexible. Good luck with your project!

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