Help deciphering a recipe
rob333 (zone 7b)
4 years ago
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Annie Deighnaugh
4 years agoRelated Discussions
Help deciphering elemental analysis of worm castings?
Comments (4)Those look like the total amounts of nutrients (and other things) that will become available as the material decomposes. They get those numbers by completely digesting the material with reagents and measuring the amounts of those elements in the resulting liquid. This is different from extracting the available amounts without digesting. That sort of analysis would only tell you what is immediately available and the numbers would be much lower. (Often they will split the sample and analyze it both ways and give you the immediately available nutrients and total values but it looks like the testing package you chose only gives totals) To figure out how much of each nutrient is supplied, just apply the percent of the nutrient you are interested in to the amount of material you will apply(on a dry weight basis). For example; If you applied ten pounds of that material (on a dry weight basis), by the time it is completely broken down, you will have added 0.254 lbs.(or about 4 ounces) of nitrogen to your soil. Of course, some of that nitrogen is going to be in the immediately available nitrate and ammonium forms, and would be an instant boost to soil fertility. But, those amounts aren't given. N, P and K percents are given, so those are easy. But to figure out how much of each element will be supplied, just convert ppm to a percent. That's as easy as dividing the value in ppm by 10000. For example. 38536 ppm of calcium equals 3.8536% by dry weight. So for each 10 lbs. you apply about .4 pounds of calcium would be supplied. Just to avoid confusion if anyone wants to run the numbers themselves, if you try that conversion on elemental potassium and phosphorous, it doesn't match the percents that they've given because they converted K and P into K2O and P205. Like so: 8919 ppm K divided by .825 (convert to K2O5) = 10810.9 ppm divided by 10000 (convert to percent) = 1.08% It's similar for phosphorous. Anyway, that gives you the amounts of the elements on a dry weight basis. However, without the moisture percent these amounts may vary a little from the actual weight since it probably contains at least a litter water. But not by too much I would guess. In regards to being nitrogen stable or a nitrogen draw is concerned, it's nitrogen stable. At a maximum of 100% organic material (which I guarantee it isn't), the calculated C/N ratio based on estimated carbon divided by total nitrogen would be about 23, so no problems there. As far as safe for plants or not, sodium and boron values are nice and low so you're good on that account. Whatever the pH is, it will shift towards neutral as it decomposes. The only potential issue I can imagine is if one of the elements is in a super soluble form, which could result in a salinity issue if used at a high rate. Unfortunately, they give total amounts and not soluble, which makes it tough to be 100% confident. However, I would guess it isn't too different from earth worm castings and I wouldn't expect any problems....See MorePlease help me decipher these quotes
Comments (7)As someone who sells Dynsasty/Omega, I have to clear up a few things about the line. :) Unless you are doing one of the very special doors only offered in Omega, you could save at least 10-15% by doing the design in Dynasty, with only a few select ones that are needed to be totally custom, done in Omega. Second, any cabinet door will have adjustable hinges, and WILL need to be adjusted occasionally. Display doors take a lot of abuse, getting tossed into people's vehicles and bumping around, so it's not surprising that that it could need adjusted. All of them will, at some point. Third, the paint finishes offered in Omega do have different sheen levels available. But, I've never found that the paint in either Dynasty or Omega to look "plastic". :) I have a whole kitchen in Pearl, and it's a subtle low sheen. Not all all plastic looking. :) [Transitional Kitchen Cabinets[(https://www.houzz.com/products/transitional-kitchen-cabinetry-prbr1-br~t_437~s_2112) by Other Metro Kitchen & Bath Designers ProSource Memphis [Transitional Kitchen Cabinets[(https://www.houzz.com/products/transitional-kitchen-cabinetry-prbr1-br~t_437~s_2112) by Other Metro Kitchen & Bath Designers ProSource Memphis [Transitional Kitchen Cabinets[(https://www.houzz.com/products/transitional-kitchen-cabinetry-prbr1-br~t_437~s_2112) by Other Metro Kitchen & Bath Designers ProSource Memphis...See MoreHelp me decipher this tile order
Comments (1)The out corners are the left and right corner bullnose pieces....See MoreNeed help deciphering lindac's swedish meatballs
Comments (19)Milk is very common in meatballs and meatloaf. Swedish Meatballs Adjusted from c.1998, M.S. Milliken & S. Feniger Meatballs: 2 slices white bread, crusts removed 1/2 cup milk 1 pound ground beef 1 pound ground pork 1 small onion, 2 to 3 eggs 1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon ground allspice 1/2 teaspoon Nutmeg 1/8 teaspoon ground ginger Salt and freshly ground black pepper Butter and vegetable oil for frying meatballs Gravy: 3 cups beef stock 2 to 3 tablespoons flour 1/2 cup heavy cream Salt and freshly ground black pepper Fresh parsley or Dill, for garnish Pulse onion, bread and milk in processor. (I use a mini processor). Mix beef and pork together. Add spices, salt, pepper and mix well. Add onion/bread/milk mixture and using hands mix to combined. Add eggs. Test seasoning by sauteing a small piece. Taste and adjust seasoning. Shape meatballs. Heat skillet, add butter and oil and brown meatballs. Remove from pan. Make sauce by adding flour to the drippings. Cook for a couple of minutes. Add enough beef broth to make sauce. Add 1/2 cup cream. Bring to a simmer and add the meatballs to the sauce and simmer for at least an hour. Serve over noodles. Sprinkle with minced parsley or dill. Edited Feb. 2nd, 2010...See MoreElmer J Fudd
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