CleanEffects ultimate users guide. And tips. The CleanEffects air filter is the best but only if you follow these handy do it yourself tips I've learned installing them in a few houses. Okay first off I will reply to the guy who said the filtering blinking green light on the indicator panel did not blink when using his fan 24/7 question. The green blinking indicator light only blinks when the filter is fully functional and will stop blinking and be solid when in warm-up mode or waiting for the blower to start up if the blower is set to auto. The filter light does blink/turn on when using the fan only and/or when the A/C is on when wired correctly by the installer. (read on for alternate solution) Okay now for the tips i've learned & want to pass on since I really like this filter and have one in my house and installed one in my moms house recently aswell. You will need a strong spray nozzle for your home water hose or one of those small electric plug in water pressure cleaners to spray down the plastic coils every 4 to 6 months because the really dont get very clean with a vacuum cleaning only the pre-filter can be cleaned with the vacuum. Vacuum usually once a month will do for the pre-filter. So plan for this in advance as you will need one or the other. (strong water hose nozzle or small electirc pessure cleaner). The front door has two metal pins that slip into notches on the unit. When these metal pins dont line up during install they can get bent or come bent during shipping. This is the cause of the door being excessively hard to close on some installs. To fix this simply bend these netal pins a little to the sides and the small bottom feet down or up so they line up nicely and the door will open and close smoothly & make cleaning the pre-filters & plastic coils a breeze. Next I have noticed that some air handlers are so strong that they can pull the plastic pre-filter that comes with the CleanEffects unit within range of the electric metal coils and cause the coil to turn off. To solve this problem noted by several posters that noticed the coils keep turning off causeing the yellow fault lights to blink or the green filter light to stay solid, you can hang a small weight off of the pre-filters center frame work to pull it away from the coils. a small string with a weight handing off of it can do the job. I used some plastic coated metal cloths hangers to form some small hooks that i use to pull the pre-filter down away from the coils. They hang perfectly from the pre-filters plastic support arms. This will solve most of the problems with coils that turn off to what seems to be randomly when its really do to some air handlers being to strong and pulling the filter close to the metal coils and causing coil faults. I love my CleanEffects Trane air filter and I hope the above tips solve a lot of confusion thats going on out there. The filter really works great once the above ajustments are made and looked for. (I have contacted Trane with the above tweaks & hopefully they can tweak the plastic pre-filter that seems to be the cause of many of the troubles being reported.) But dont wait your health is to important & the CleanEffects system really is a great air cleaner even if a little quirky its worth having NOW & not worth putting off until later since its so easy to tweak. =) Feel free to post questions here as i will check up on this post from time to time. Or email me at RikiiTikii at yahoo d o t com signed, Ricky of Miami p.s. If you ever look up at the CleanEffects from underneath when the A/C is on at night you will see an amazing Tesla coil like Electrical light show, it really is that futuristic & how youll know its truly working properly.

Hello tigerdunes, Thank you for your help in identifying the differences between the 2 bids. I would've never known about the refrigerant lines based from my lack of knowledge of this stuff. Yes, these systems are identical. I had intended this so that I can compare "apples to apples". Carrier did provide the AHRI number, but it's not shown on the proposal. Should I insist that the specifics be added to contract before signing? Carrier dealer plan to use Pro thermostat model# T805, how does this thermostat compare to the Carrier Edge thermostat? I did find it curious that neither Bryant nor Carrier included a Bryant/Carrier brand thermostat. The furnace and ductwork is located in the attic space. I did have a conversation with Bryant dealer a while back inquiring R8 and his response was that most houses in my climate zone uses R6 (the impression I got was that R8 would be more than what I'd need), but that he could give me a quote if I really wanted the upgrade (said it's not that much more in cost). So as far as the option of getting all new R6 ductwork to replace the existing R4, I was leaning towards passing on it factoring that both heating and cooling is scarcely used in this house. The winters are pretty mild here (this past winter the heating was only turned on twice for several hours at dawn. During the summers, the A/C gets turned on no more than a total of 10 times for several hours in the late afternoons of the hottest days. I figured if the existing ducts are in good condition, I saw no cost-benefit to upgrade to new ductwork. What do you think? Am I wrong in my rationality? Yes, there is only one return, located in the hallway. I measured the grille to be about 15"x30", actual open area is closer to 13"x28.5". We are thinking enlarging the existing to 20"x30". Will this be large enough for 1200 CFMs? Thank you again for your help!

I use Bon Ami cleansing powder for *everything*. It's the can with the baby chick and the words, "Hasn't scratched yet." Our house was new in 2000. I love the floor heat, the Ultra Bain air jet tub, the recessed medicine cabinets that look like 'just mirrors on the wall', the dual pedestal sinks with plenty of 'laying room', the 3 X 6 shower w/only a handheld shower head on a rod, the big linen closet. I'm sorry about the three body sprays in the shower that aren't used, the bad tile job by the drunken 'helper' -- and that I 'economized' by not laying the floor tile on the diagonal. (Maybe you get 'cheap' after spending dump trucks full of money for a year!)

Stoves: The least bad news is with stoves. The most recent membership surveys from Consumer Reports show GE as the most reliable brand of electric stove (a 5% problem rate in the first five years of ownership) followed by Whirlpool and Fridgiaire (both with a 7% rate.) Although KitchenAid is a Whirlpool brand and made in the same factories, the KA problem rate is nearly double the Whirlpool rate, according the CR members who bought KA electric stoves in the last five years. For electric stoves (both slide in and freestanding) Kitchenaids may be suffering from a combination of "featuritis" (i.e., more features mean more things that can break) plus the aftermath of some poor design choices in with ovens in Whirlpool stoves (KA being one of its brands). The problems started with with oven-self-cleaning functions killing stove and wall-oven electronics. Basically, the heat would either trip an internal circuit breaker (for which significant disassembly was required to get at) or else it would fry the electronics. I'll bet a sizable portion of the complaints and negative reviews you've seen are about stoves and ovens purchased three or more years ago. Whirlpool did a couple of things to try to fix the problem. One was ato install larger cooling fan for the electronics which, in turn, has led to complaints about noise and air venting out the front of the range or oven. The other change was the so-called "Acqualift" steaming self-cleaning in place of high-heat self-cleaning. Judging by the reports in a long-running thread here (and elsewhere), Aqualift performs dismally. Personally, I would not buy Whirlpool-made range with the Aqualift function. I am going to disagree with the suggestions to check out induction, but only because you want white appliances for your kitchen. Unless you are willing to pay ultra-premium prices fo5 brands like Viking, you cannot otherwise get a white induction range right now in North America. (Sears Canada had one a couple of years ago, but I think that model has been discontinued). So, for a white electric range, maybe you want to look at GE. Dishwashers For a dishwasher, you may want to consider Bosch. Miele is more expensive but generally has favorable reviews here if you want to search for postings. Plain Whirlpool dishwashers seem to be pretty reliable as well, but tend to have very long cycle times. The CR membership survey results would give me pause about about buying a KA dishwasher. Members are reporting a 20% problem rate for KA DWs. As they also report for LG. Samsung DWs are currently showing 1 in 4 dishwashers with major problems. The very high KA rate might be reflecting some past problems that current models may not have. IIRC, there was a spate of problems several years ago with a cracking pump fitting on some Whirlpool-made dishwashers, and that notably affected those sold under its KA brand. Since the CR surveys go back five years, the 20% problem rate may reflect those now-solved pump problems (or at least, apparently solved.) Most recent postings here from recent purchasers of KA dishwashers have been pretty positive. I'd suggest Bosch and Miele for DWs. In the CR surveys, Bosch owners have been reporting problem rates down around 9% for several years. Miele is selling enough to CR members to show up in this year's survey results and reportedly had a 13% problem rate. Yale Appliances, which has a large service department, has a recent blog reporting a significantly lower rate. The reports here on Bosch and Miele are mostly favorable. Refrigerators I have had a KA french-door fridge for three years and the only problem was a cracked hinge pivot on the door/cover of the deli drawer under the crispers. (No problem getting it fixed, btw.) Back when I bought my fridge, the KA and Whirlpool versions were running a league leading 7 to 8% problem rate. Now, the most reliable brands of FD fridges are Samsung, LG, GE and Kenmore. That's not saying much, however, as they have a 19% problem rate. (Well, okay, they used to be up around 25%, so maybe it says something, after all.) Whirlpool/KA are now running about 25% problem rates. Electrolux's Frigidaire brand is apparently running about a 35% problem rate and its flagship Electrolux branded models reportedly have a 45% problem rate. If you are looking for a SxS fridge, the good news is that the defect levels in Frigidaire/Electrolux SxS models are in line with industry averages. The bad news is that everybody is running a 20% to 22% defect rate except for Kitchenaid being the outlier with a 29% problem rate. If you are looking for top-freezer models or single-door bottom-freezer models, you can't find major brand versions that are a 36" wide. All are 33" or less except for some ultra-premium priced built-ins and integrated models from the likes of Sub Zero.