Quick q .... drywall vs railing for stairs
robo (z6a)
4 years ago
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mtnrdredux_gw
4 years agolast modified: 4 years agoaprilneverends
4 years agolast modified: 4 years agoRelated Discussions
Screwing in picture rails to studs so we can hang heavy pictures?
Comments (19)Quite frankly it would be easier to make the drive and hang the mirror / picture/ piano or whatever than to write a step by step description on hanging a cleat system but here goes ONE: Locate and mark a level line where object is to be hung on wall, TWO: Pre-drill the wall side cleat for the number of anchors that is determined to be used, for a 40# mirror that is lets say 24" wide I would suggest 3 alligators. http://www.toggler.com/products/alligator/installation.php or sharkies: http://www.powers.com/product_07585.php One in the center and one on each side 3" - 5" inches from the ends, place the cleat at the the marked location and using a pencil through the holes mark the wall then set the cleat aside and using a 1/4" masonry bit drill through the plaster ( if you are lucky you could hit lath and wont have to use the anchors, just drywall screws ) insert the alligator and gently tap in with a hammer until flush to the wall (check the manufactures instructions). Using flat head screws tighten the cleat to the wall. THREE: Locate the other half of the cleat to the object being hung and attach it using an appropriate sized flat head screws and place your object just above the wall cleat slide it down and your done. Make sure that you understand the cleat system: http://www.google.ca/search?q=%22french+cleat%22&hl=en&num=10&lr=&ft=i&cr=&safe=images I have literally used thousands of the alligator wall anchors in all sorts of materials and as far as I know there was never any failures with them. Stud attachment isn't necessary for this hanging system... the plaster literally does the holding...See MoreQuick cost estimate for a composite 22x12 deck -floor boards only
Comments (1)A little late to the question but in case you still need an answer... Not sure about exact installation costs which typically do vary by installer by 10-30%, but without telling us specifically which Trex or Azac product, it will be hard to estimate material cost. Typically Trex will run somewhere right around $3.50 to $4.00 per linear foot. You will need to purchase 12 footers for your deck and you will need roughly 60 of them (not counting any stairs if any). The spacing between boards will be 1/8" so actually a few boards less. Always order several extra due to mistakes in cutting/measuring, etc. At $4.00 per linear foot that will cost you $2880 for just the deck boards without installation. That does not count screws or hidden fasteners. Hidden fasteners will be a couple hundred extra. Do your estimates include tearing up and removing the old deck boards? That might save you some money if you did that part yourself but I can't imagine the entire quote should be much more than $4000-$4500 (Just an educated guess based upon just building a large deck myself after receiving several estimates)...See MoreStaircase Drywall Reveal/Shadow/Gap
Comments (21)My guess is that the stairs in your inspiration photo were site-built; the treads and risers were all fit after construction of the wall was completed. Doing it in reverse order is certainly more complicated and if you choose drywall it's sure to be an exercise in frustration. With the stairs already installed, one approach would be to carefully field measure each tread and riser and have a cabinetmaking shop with a CNC-controlled router fabricate the wall from a sheet of MDF or similar material....See Morecarpet vs wood on stairs
Comments (12)Hard surfaces (like hardwood, drywall, glass, etc) allow noise to bounce around = echo. That irritating 'hum' that is there all the time even though there is no one around. Carpets and soft coverings (wall tapestries, heavy drapes, large upholstered furniture, etc) absorb the 'bounce' and reduce the echo. I liken noise to a jar of marbles being released onto a tile floor. It bounces and bounces and clatters and makes a racket. It rattles down pipes (plumbing and heating) and gets into everything. Until it meets carpet. Then it sticks and never bounces back up. You have a two story opening to a mezzanine area that opens into another area for bedrooms. There is nothing to stop the noise in the air (voices, TV, kitchen, footsteps, etc) from reaching the upper level - except the carpet. It is reducing your noise levels by 1/2. As soon as you add in hardwood (or anything that is solid) your home will get TWICE as noisy. As a cork flooring expert, I would suggest cork as a noise reducer. It works very much like carpet. But buyer beware. Cork is a finicky product to live with. It fades, it dimples (dents that pop out after a year or so) it scratches. All of this can be corrected (except the fading) with a little TLC. Cork is one of the few flooring choices on the market that do what carpet does = keep the noise levels down. Rubberized flooring (extremely expensive) is the other. Cork and rubber are the only products that mimic the noise reducing properties of carpet. If you are unsure as to go for hardwood or recarpet, you do yourself a favour by removing the carpet RIGHT NOW. Live on the bare subfloor (yes slippers will be needed) for several weeks (6 weeks should be enough time to figure this out). You will find that every flush of the toilette, every TV noise, every phone conversation will be clearly heard throughout the two levels. Compare that to what you have now. Only you can decide the level of noise that is livable. I'm someone with sensitive ears. I'll take a quiet floor covering (yes...even carpet) over the noise increase any day of the week. How quiet do you find your home right now? Is it acceptable to you? Can you handle it if it DOUBLES in noise?...See MoreBunny
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