paint color that doesn’t make ceiling look dirty
4 years ago
We started painting our tan walls white. We will need to do at least two coats but as the first coat is up, I am concerned it is making our ceiling look dirty, especially around the edge. My husband said we could take it back to Sherwin Williams and have it tinted to a different color but I don’t know what color will look better. Any ideas!?
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4 years ago
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cheap kitchen floor that doesn't _look_ cheap?
Comments (28)Something bad happened that actually was a very, very good thing... After following breiaj's instructions to the letter, two of the floor tiles in the bathroom popped up a couple of days later and wouldn't stay stuck. When I pulled them up the rest of the way, I found a leak! If it hadn't been for those tiles unsticking, we wouldn't have found that leak until it did a LOT more damage - like made a big ole mess of the kitchen ceiling. So here's one way in which vinyl tile might actually be BETTER than sheet! A few notes WRT breiaj's instructions... I admit to dropping back to $3.99 paintbrushes because they became unworkable so quickly - the glue would start to dry up in the bristles while we were working and it would become more like a paddle than a brush! We didn't have any problems with bristle loss. 2" flat-ended paintbrushes were just the right size, a wider brush seemed like it would save time but was really more awkward to work with, especially with cut pieces. Don't bother wearing rubber gloves in hopes of keeping your hands clean, they stick to the tile's adhesive and to the adhesive you're spreading on and just generally irritate the crap out of you. :-) The adhesive - Armstrong's anyway - is kind of hard on your hands though, and contrary to the label does not wash off with soap and water! We ended up using a "painter's wipes" product we had on hand to clean up our hands about every hour because we would get too sticky to work effectively, and our fingertips were pretty raw and sore afterward. Even though it costs a bit more it's a lot easier to work with the smaller containers of adhesive using this brush-on method, because the bucket gunks up something awful. If you're laying more than about 100 square feet, seriously consider coughing up for the vinyl tile cutter (homedepot.com has one for about $50, or you can rent a superduper heavy-duty one for about the same for a weekend)... scoring and snapping with a utility knife sucks after a while, it's slow and hard on your hands. Make sure you have a comfortable utility knife no matter what though, and a LOT of blades. Stanley makes a really nice knife in their FatMax line, with a rubber-cushioned handle. A jamb or undercut saw ($15) makes dealing with those door jambs SO much easier than trying to cut the tile around them! We removed the baseboards; we were going to replace them with vinyl cove but the damn stuff just would not cooperate so we patched the baseboards with wood filler galore and put them back, and it looked SO much neater than butting the tiles up to the baseboards. deeje, I've checked around with several manufacturers of vinyl tile and the biggest deal WRT moisture is not to slop around too much water when you mop - contrary to popular belief, you don't need a gallon bucket full of near-boiling water and some vile chemical to get a floor clean! Try a well-squeezed-out sponge or terrycloth/microfiber mop instead of a sopping string or rag mop instead. Those microfiber cleaning cloths fit on Swiffer handles really well, if like me you are too cheap to buy the Swiffer cloths. :-) ctaylors6, the instructions in the Cryntel box agree with the Lowes guy - wash well-secured vinyl very well, rinse well, allow to dry thoroughly. I'd use something like TSP that would destroy any gloss on the existing floor. Our vinyl was trashed so we couldn't leave it, so I can't speak to the adhesive method on top of vinyl. We still haven't gotten the kitchen floor laid down yet. We had to tear out some of the subfloor and replace it, and then do a lot of leveling and sanding on the rest, got diverted with a day of electrical work, and to top it all off DH has been sick as a dog. :-( Cross your fingers for this weekend!...See MoreFamily room doesn't get much light, need help with paint colors!
Comments (4)I would go super light..like a soft white with warm undertones..SW Shoji White on the walls and paint cabinets Decorator White..the floors will look gorgeous with this soft white palette...layer in the dark colors you picked for your walls in pillows and acessories.......See More"Cream" trim doesn't look good with anything except...
Comments (14)I have the same issue: 3000 square foot house and EVERYTHING is beige: not just the walls, ceilings, and carpets, but ALL the ceiling trim and baseboards (found in every room, hall, and stairs), all the interior doors, window surrounds, wainscoting, fireplace surround, and the entire 2-story wall of decorative paneling into which the front door is set. And the real kicker: ALL that trim is DARKER!!! Who in their right mind ever thought tan trim was a good idea?!? I've done the best I can with accent walls of blue, burgundy, and slate gray, but I love to play with color and this has been SOOO constraining (for perspective, my idea of a fun room is one with turquoise & lavender walls, dark wood or black furniture, and some pops of orange and green). So after 5 years of struggling with the beige I'm nearly ready to take the leap and just start re-painting all the trim--or at least the baseboards, door surrounds, and ceiling trim. Will likely have to hire a professional for the baseboards. Either way it's going to cost thousands of dollars and/or hundreds of hours of my time. We bought the house in a rush and I thought I'd be able to work with it, but I will never, ever make the same mistake again....See MoreWhy doesn’t my living room look “right”?
Comments (27)Hi Holly. Is the door in between the sofas the main door in and out of the room? Your biggest factor here is layout and paint. Sorry you just painted but its the wrong color to work with your existing pieces. Also dividing the paint color below the moulding strip is making the room feel squat because of the sharp color contrast. One color to the ceiling would be ideal.. Really white or a pale pale pink is your friend here and would have been preferable. The place to have brought in some color accents would be in a rug to ground the space and some pillows. The minty green isnt the right tone. I would pull the rose tone from your fireplace tile and a deeper green. accent with warm whites. A sheer warm white drapery panel won't make the window seem so heavy and you could even mount these to the outside of the window bump out. A round coffee table would be a better fit for the furniture layout. I would do chests on either side of your fireplace and I like where you were going with the round mirror but I would do one over each chest and then bring in a piece of art for over the fireplace. Try moving your art you have on either side of the fireplace above your sofa and see how that feels. They may be too small but its worth a try. Is there a reason for the moulding behind the sofa? Your black floor lamp is overwhelming the room and I would do something that ties into the gold mirrors. If that door us used then that would not be my choice for a place to have a lamp. Thats hard to say without seeing where your travel paths are in the room. A side table and lamp to anchor the corner near the windows. Here are some ideas to tie into what I am saying....See More- 4 years ago
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I’m not 100# married to a white shade. What do you all think of either of these? They would look good with our brown trim. And maybe look better with our ceiling?
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Oops it is not Sherwin Williams. It is Nautica warm pearl that we are putting up right now and reconsidering
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