I actually owned the BS drop-in and it was great. It wasn't the easiest to clean but it also wasn't that bad. The only pain was having to remove all the grates *and* the knobs to lift the top. That said, I wouldn't have traded it for any sealed burner cooktop. I looked at the Capital and the power wok burner but the sealed powerwok suffers the same problem as every high powered sealed burner I've seen... it spreads the heat to widely. I demo'd both prior to buying the BS and the powerwok burner had all the heat going up the sides of the wok and the center wasn't getting much heat at all. I don't think they've redesigned that burner significantly so I wouldn't recommend it if you are really serious about wok cooking. If you get the BS, get an extra grate so you can modify it to accept a wok without the wok ring. Also, the grates on it are continuous, unless you have a different definition of that than I do. There are a couple of things with the BS to make it better: 1. get the extra grate and modify it. 2. ask if they will replace the rear center and rear left burner to simmer burners. They come with the 15k burner but it looks like they used the same 9.5k orifice they use on the simmer burner. If I recall correctly, this was due to fire certification because they didn't want to put a 1" back on it. 3. make sure you get the "white-glove" warranty extension. Not sure if they still offer that but you get an extra year and a BS tech out to check things out. 4. open up the top first thing and put foil under the burner bowls. I used foil to form little catch cups that I put into the support riser to the burners. Bits of food and liquid that fall down the center hole of the burner will fall into this area that is almost impossible to clean without slicing your hands. The catch cup prevents the need to get your fingers way down there. You'll know what I mean once you get in there. IMHO, there's nothing else on the market today that can even come close to the BS if you are looking for a drop-in cooktop. As a consumer, I'd love to see another player enter the market here... hint.. hint.. BTW, the comment about loosing drawer space is because the open burner design of the BS make it vertically thicker/deeper. The BS extends about 2-3 inches lower below the counter top than average sealed burner cooktops. Good luck with your decision.

Interesting - I phoned Capital this morning and they confirmed what you said Trevor. When the burner grate is flipped over the combustion changes and some of the gas outlets can be blocked. Quite unbelievable, isn't it? You would think the salesperson would want to sell a wok ring instead of discouraging an extra sale! Thanks again

Thanks for your insights. Commenting on your questions in reverse order: (a) I do not have any experience with gas wok cooking, so even if I thought my induction wok technique was good, I couldn't compare. I can say that for quantities sufficient for several people, cooked sequentially in the induction wok and then combined and finished, my 3500W Cooktek can manage more than enough power. However, it heats a ring area of the wok so the very bottom (4-inch diameter?) is heated via conduction. I suspect a gas-experienced wok user would have to modify his technique somewhat. (b) I recommend reading the first dozen pages or so of Greenheck's guide: http://www.greenheck.com/media/pdf/otherinfo/KVSApplDesign_catalog.pdf particularly the table on airflow rates, to gain insight into this subject. I usually recommend 90 CFM/sq. ft. of hood entry aperture. This is realized (actual) flow rate; blower rated flow rate may need to be 1.5X or more of this value depending on various factors. Hoods need to overlap the cooking zone, and side skirts may be called for in some configurations. MUA is a big deal and needs to be addressed at the same time as the ventilation approach. (c) If you were to use a commercial wok burner and commercial hood, the fire suppression is built in. I don't know what options are available to avoid a possible sprinkler mess vs. some other kind of chemical spray mess. Non-messy halon extinguishers may not be allowed in a home. What is allowed needs to be discussed with your code enforcement officer. I don't doubt that there is some construction approach that should be acceptable, but it is likely location specific. Also, ask your insurance company. Give up the idea of nesting the range and hood into a nice set of wood cabinets if you are going commercial. Stove and hood may need to be spaced away from any walls, which in most residences are combustible, no matter what surface materials are used to protect them. In new construction, or with sufficient land, thought could be given to following the approach of 'higher-end' historical Chinese rural homes -- wood construction kitchens were separated from the wood construction living quarters for good reasons. http://yinyutang.pem.org/

I won't be much help in your question on comparing the sealed burner vs open burner models. But, I'm in the same boat as @stars26. Our kitchen remodel is nearing the end and I have a open burner 36" RCS waiting to go in. I also have a 21K burner upgrade that I will be swapping into one of the 15K front burner spots. From what I've read lurking around the forums here, most owners are very happy with the BTU upgrade from "standard" range models when buying a BS even at the 15k specs. Any BTUs over 15k are just cherry on top for an average home cook is my understanding - not that you wouldn't notice the heat difference, but more that it may not be a necessity depending on your cooking style and menu preferences. I was looking for the extra BTUs in at least one burner, but wasn't able to afford to pay the premium to go up to an RNB. So am going the burner replacement route. I'm looking forward to having the range in place soon and in use hopefully not long after.