Help... gas pipe will cause new stove to stick out
Joyce
4 years ago
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Want a gas stove, but not sure about my gas line
Comments (7)You may not have to move the line at all. A foot away is nothing, and sometimes it is better than if it was right behind the range, because the end of the pipe might hit the range. Here's how it goes. If you can see the end of the pipe, there is probably a cap on it. There may also be a small red lever called a 'shut off valve'.. It's not the main shut off, just a small one for the range. If it's not there, you should add one. A plumber or someone can add this shut off valve in two minutes if it doesn't interfere with walls or cabinets. Otherwise they may have to extend the pipe either under the floor or in the wall. And yes, that is a bigger job Basically, the gas is shut off,(A clever plumber who has everything ready to go may not even bother to turn the gas off if the pipe doesn't have to be moved) ... the cap on the gas pipe in your kitchen is removed, and the shut off valve screwed on with teflon pipe putty. Now you don't need the cap, you just turn the valve to 'off' (this is always perpendicular to the gas pipe). And the gas can be turned back on -assuming it was turned off to install the appliance shut off valve. Now you're ready to go, simple install a gas flex hose from the small appliance shut off valve to the back of the gas range. These flex lines are usually about 2 feet long- but often longer. Once the flex line is installed,(usually running under the range, or between the legs of the range and then up the back to the connection on the range) you turn the small shut off valve 'on' and you're ready to cook. Now, the only tricky part is knowing where the gas connection is on the back of the range. Every manufacturer puts it in a different spot, but usually it's fairly low on the back. So, yes, you may have to add some gas pipe, or an elbow, because you don't want the gas pipe or the flex line to hit the range. Usually the gas pipe should be close to the floor and between the legs of the range,(either in the floor or low on the wall) or off to the side a bit if there is no interference with cabinets and doesn't show. The plumber will need to know this before doing any work, or you should have the range nearby for them to look at. Oh, and you're going to need an electric outlet nearby as well. This should also be close to the floor so the plug won't hit the back of the range, or again- slightly off to the side if there's not interference and doesn't look bad....See MoreSoot Emitting From Kitchen Gas Range Pipe
Comments (2)What your tech did is to install a sediment trap or 'dirt leg' on the gas line. It is not only common, it is a Code requirement to prevent dirt or flakes of metal from the inside of the pipe from clogging the gas inlet to any appliance. This dirt leg is installed so that it can be easily removed for cleaning in the event it does become full. See the link below and scroll to partion that defines a sediment trap as used in architecture. Here is a link that might be useful: Sediment Trap...See MoreAdding gas line for new stove
Comments (22)Once again Snappybob has allowed his frustration to force him to talk through his hat. Contrary to his opinion the unions have very little to nothing to do with the high cost of plumbers. In fact, on a national average the plumbers union represents less than 30% of all working plumbers. The real reason the cost is to high is because certified plumbers are becoming scarcer every day. According to the U.S. Department of Labor plumbers as a whole are currently in critically short supply. Add to that the fact that 65% of all licensed Master Plumbers and 44% of all licensed Journeyman Plumbers are within 7 years of retirement and we start to see the problem. Now before you blame the apprenticeship program for failing in its obligation to train new plumbers ask yourself, what does it take to become a Journeyman Plumber? First the candidate MUST BE enrolled in a state approved and supervised apprenticeship program however 65% of all the candidates who apply for the apprenticeship program fail to pass the mandatory prerequisite entrance exam because they cannot do basic high school level math. Of those who do pass the exam, they are enrolled in the state apprenticeship program and agree to work under the apprenticeship program guidelines under the supervision of a Master Plumber for a period of 4 years. In turn, the state apprenticeship program lists a number of different categories for both residential and commercial such as Sewers & Septic tanks, Lift stations, DWV, domestic potable water supplies, potable water distribution, non-potable water distribution, liquid or gaseous fuels, chemical piping, high pressure air & medical gasses. At the end of each workweek the candidate must submit a timecard to the state apprenticeship board outlining the number of hours worked in each category for the week. Any workweek with less than 40 hours does not count and any candidate who looses more than 4 workweeks in a calendar year for unexcused absences is dropped from the program but that is rarely a problem because during peak season they will average 60hour weeks and rarely will they ever get a true 40hour week. On top of that, each candidate is required to be enrolled in a college or technical school training class and attend two 3hour evening classes a week. Cut two consecutive classes or three classes in one semester and they are dropped from the program. Minimum passing score on exams is 70%. Needless to say, the dropout rate is about 60% the first year, and on average only about 8% of those who enter the program actually finishes the full four years. Once they have completed the four-year programs each candidate receives a Diploma from the school and a Certificate of Completion from the state apprenticeship board certifying that they are now a plumber. With those two documents in hand along with a written letter of recommendation from the Master they trained under they may then apply to sit for the state-licensing exam. In Florida, where I took my training they have an open book exam. When presenting yourself for the exam you must pay a $250 non-refundable fee plus you must have in your possession a list of books outlined by the examining board. The books cost $600 and you must have the latest editions because they constantly upgrade the exam to the latest books. There is a 60% failure rate for those taking the exam the first time and on average it takes three attempts to pass the exam. Oh yes, did I mention that during the apprenticeship program whenever we introduce a new technique to the student we issue the necessary personal tools to perform the task, with the understanding that the tools will be paid for by the student through a payroll withholding. Big deal you say, so they buy a few tools. Well consider this, a 36" Rigid pipe wrench is $45 and when all is said and done each student will purchase about $2k in tools. On the other hand, when the students enroll in the program they sign a student load for the $7k tuition however, if they drop out the student loan in on them but if they complete the program the employer pays the tab. Now before you carry on about greed let me ask you this; Did you work 40 to 60hrs a week digging ditches, toting heavy materials and working outdoors under all weather conditions while attending college? Did you have to purchase all your own tools for your job? Did you even pay off your student loans, assuming that you actually attended college to get your job? Dont get me wrong. I dont begrudge one minute in this trade, in fact if you have what it takes I would highly recommend any young person starting out to strongly consider Plumbing. Where else can you find a job that cannot be out sourced to the Pacific rim, get your education paid for and start out at $30 to $50k a year with the potential of becoming a Master Plumber who makes $125 to $250K per yr?...See MoreIs it safe to cut a hole in the back panel of a gas stove?
Comments (10)Traditionally, the back panel of the range cabinet was not necessary. As the cabinet got thinner back braces were added for support during transportation, which was replaced with a panel for purely cosmetic reasons. Which is why your gas pipe wasn't a problem at that height as most ranges didn't even have back panels. However, that isn't to guarantee that heat shielding hasn't been reworked with some manufacturers that might make some back panel necessary. Try asking the manufacturer, but that is likely to produce no real answer. You might also try a certified repair person. I would avoid leaving a gap behind it. If you can't get the range to the wall, bring the wall to the range. Just my 2 cents....See MoreJoyce
4 years agoJoyce
4 years agoJoyce
4 years agolast modified: 4 years agoSammy
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