Keep in mind that the only way you can know whether the nutrients in your soil are in balance, and the soils pH is where it should be, is with a good, reliable soil test. If you have not yet done so contact your local office of the University of Illinois USDA Cooperative Extension Service about having that done. These simple soil tests can also aid in knowing more about your soil, 1) Structure. From that soil sample put enough of the rest to make a 4 inch level in a clear 1 quart jar, with a tight fitting lid. Fill that jar with water and replace the lid, tightly. Shake the jar vigorously and then let it stand for 24 hours. Your soil will settle out according to soil particle size and weight. A good loam will have about 1-3/4 inch (about 45%) of sand on the bottom. about 1 inch (about 25%) of silt next, about 1 inch (25%) of clay above that, and about 1/4 inch (about 5%) of organic matter on the top. 2) Drainage. Dig a hole 1 foot square and 1 foot deep and fill that with water. After that water drains away refill the hole with more water and time how long it takes that to drain away. Anything less than 2 hours and your soil drains too quickly and needs more organic matter to slow that drainage down. Anything over 6 hours and the soil drains too slowly and needs lots of organic matter to speed it up. 3) Tilth. Take a handful of your slightly damp soil and squeeze it tightly. When the pressure is released the soil should hold together in that clump, but when poked with a finger that clump should fall apart. 4) Smell. What does your soil smell like? A pleasant, rich earthy odor? Putrid, offensive, repugnant odor? The more organic matter in your soil the more active the soil bacteria will be and the nicer you soil will smell. 5) Life. How many earthworms per shovel full were there? 5 or more indicates a pretty healthy soil. Fewer than 5, according to the Natural Resources Conservation Service, indicates a soil that is not healthy. Here is a link that might be useful: UI CES

You might want to remove the spent blooms on the buddleia and agastache's to prevent heavy reseeding. I keep my buddleia's deadheaded throughout the season, and always whack my 7'er back to about 4' now, then as far back as I can in the spring. It's over 10 years old and has a huge trunk, so it can't be pruned back lower than 2' anyway. I've pruned it both in winter & in spring, and it always comes back. If you're a bird person, the goldfinches would probably love you for leaving the heads on the agastaches, but come spring time, you'll probably have loads of seedlings (all in the wrong place, like me!). As for the daylilies, I don't think it matters when you whack them back, but like most bulbs, you shouldn't cut them back if they're still green. Considering it's hard to kill a daylily (IMO), you should be okay. Same with hostas; I can't kill mine. I tend to leave my few ornamental grasses up; I like to see them poking up through the snow. Azaleas should be pruned right after they bloom; never much later (see rhizo's reply).

Location is everything in gardening. WA state has multiple distinct rose growing zones. Here in Olympia I shove my potted roses up against the house out of the wind and pile some leaves around the pots. That's it. There are places, like downtown Seattle, where you would not have to do even that much. And other places, like anything east of the Cascade foothills, where that would not be enough. That's one of my pet peeves, sorry, people who don't tell us what zone they're in! how can we advise? especially about winter protection. Roses that have had a chance to harden off, in slowly dropping temperatures, can take temps in the high teens without much damage, but I would do something to protect roots in pots. I lose about as many roses to rot in the winter as I do to freeze damage, although there was a lot of freeze damage last winter and no rot. Still, I only lost one rose, and that was a mini in a 1 gallon can.

Bearing fruit is a different aspect of the plant than survival in the winter. Unless you have to have it in the ground which will require tremendous efforts to keep the plant alive, you can grow any variety for fruiting in pots but you have to provide winter shelter and then summer warmth (rather heat). Search this site for winter protection techniques. I am in Zone 5a (and sometimes colder) but I bring my plants inside to a cold storage (temp 44F~49F) after start of dormancy. Then I take it out to a sunny warm location. To help the fruit ripen you have to provide a warm (hot better) spot. Placing close to south facing wall will help a lot. You may keep on looking for a cold hardy fig variety for Zone 5A and let us know the good news when you experience one. But you can grow and ripen fig in pots with proper care. Winter them in garage or cold storage. Bring them out to sun and heat when the danger of frost is gone.