Just to show you how much you can prune, here is small leaf jade (Crosby's Compact) that was very etiolated. It is also jade, and your plant should respond in similar ways. I pruned it to practically bare branches and was left with 2 bare stumps:

Branches on left were potted and are growing. Here is photo of stumps months later; see how compact new growth is:

Yes: the base problem is inadequate light - if this is not solved future growth will continue to be sparse. So if you cut it back instead of the existing natural habit plant you will have one that had been turned to stubs previously - if it were mine I would try moving it into stronger light without whacking it back, seeing what happens.

Thank you both so very much. You have been so helpful.

I will definitely plant the newly pruned, and I hope to shorten the etoliated trunk and perhaps make two or more from that original trunk. Do I need to let it heal over before I plan the pruned pieces? I have read both ways - let it heal and you can plant it immediately. Not sure if there are other things to think about in making that decision.

Yes - I do understand (now :)) that inadequate light was the problem. I brought it home from my work office and obviously put it in the wrong place. I am working on a new place for all of my succulents. I am new to succulents, but I LOVE them!! AND, I'm learning a lot. I really appreciate your time and expertise!!

Most indoor succulents need to be either in or near an unblocked south facing window or placed beneath adequate artificial lighting in order to grow normally. For instance the south wall of the house plant room at a garden center near me is glass from top to bottom or nearly so. And this part of the space is where the succulents are displayed.

Jade plants given full exposure produce quite different looking leaves from those seen on shaded examples such as yours, are also not wobbly looking.

You could let pruned off branches to heal - I used to for overnight or even few days, but from experience I do not think it is necessary. If plant was overwatered and roots are very wet (or were in water-retaining soil), I would let cuttings air dry for few hours or overnight. Your plant doesn't seem to be suffering from too much moisture. If I cut plant like that, I let cuttings to callus only while I am getting pots filled with a mix - that may be less than 1/2 hr. On top of that, I use dry potting mix so there is no chance of rot setting in. If the cutting is from a really thck branch or from plant that was suffering from some rot, I sometimes use light dusting of ground cinnamon. OTH, jades - and many other succulents - can be alive unpotted for a long time, even months. I do not water rootless cuttings for a while - that is usually at least 10 days or longer. Some ppl suggest spraying, I never do. I have rooted few hundred jade plants (requested for wedding favours), and never sprayed any of them.

You didn't indicate where the plant is going to be kept (indoors? outdoors?) and/or what is your general location. I keep them outdoors during appropriate seasons, in full sun whole day long. They should be acclimatized to much better light but you may not need to do it if kept indoors, just on a windowsill. In good light, they often get some coloring; usually reddish rim/margins of leaves. And they grow much more compact - that is what one should aim for.

Outside, in plenty of sunlight (photo just after the rain) - reddish margins:

This poor plant has not been well cared for, but i am now retired, and I am starting to love succulents and learning about them. I am working on finding a way to get them to a north facing window I have only two). When I brought it home from my office, I unknowlingly had it in a southfacing window and hence the etoliation. I live in southeast Iowa, so no outdoors for at least a few more months. I have propigating some other succulents, and had a little success, but I am really enjoying the learning. I have never had much of a green thumb, but with a full time job and 5 kids I think the problem might have been time for attention :) THANK YOU again for all of your help. I love how different communities can come together and help each other like this. Whether it is plants, crafts, building - there is always someone to help!

Kim

I am not sure if I understand correctly: south facing window is usually much sunnier/brighter than north facing window. If I had to choose between 2 it would definitely be south facing. Etiolation happens because of low light levels. You said:..." I unknowlingly had it in a southfacing window and hence the etoliation"... Unless your south facing windows are obstructed (trees, fence, blinds etc.), it should be much better there than north facing window.

I am in cold Ontario, Canada and also have all succuents indoors for winter. Most are in dark basement, and I use supplementary lights that are 12hrs on, 12hrs off. I have some upstairs, they are in completely unobstructed west facing window. They are ok, but I should have put there some lights to 'boost' light on many gray, sun-less winter days...Plants that are doing well in that kind of light are sansevierias, and haworthias that are know for growing quite well in less sunlight. But I still put all outside as soon as temps are high enough,keeping sans and haws in more east-exposure location so they are not exposed to scorching mid-day sun. All others are in full sun - by the time it is sunniest, they are well acclimatized to full sun.

Example:

Here is Echeveria Topsy Turvy: on the left is one under lights, on left is one in west-facing, unobstructed window, but no supplementary lights:

There isn't huge difference - it could be much worse -, but left plant is more compact. All offsets are also more compact. I prefer look of plant on left...

DUH! I meant that it WAS in a north facing window, and now I have it in a south facing window! Trying to do too many things at once, and jsut got mixed up. Yes - I prefer the one on the left as well. I have no west facing windows htat would be available. But i'm anxious to get my south facing windows ready. I have a sliding patio door on the south, which would be perfect, except that we have a furnace register on the floor on the side of the door that doesn't slide. So. . . looking for a stand that I can put over it that won't block that register, and still allow me to put some plants there. I think I have a plan if I can get my husband to agree. . .

Kim

I considered that you just reversed but had to ask :)

Good idea to put some kind of stand to elevate plant! I used couple of wooden high/bar chairs like this:

...and put a wood plank on top and another on those cross bars to give me lots of room for more plants! Register is between the chairs and shelves are far enough to protect plants from direct blast of warm air.

Perfect! Just what I had in mind!

Kim

Just few things to add:

Best time to prune plants is during their growing season/period. That would be few months later. I have good experience with jades, and pruned them any time of year, without any problems. That may not work so well with some other plants (will not, usually, kill them but may set them back), but jades are very adaptable. All plants grow better during their active period.

Should you decide to wait, your plant will grow some. If you can increase light now, new growth should be more compact = sets of leaves growing closer together. If that is the case, when you eventually prune, do not leave long etiolated parts on cuttings. It may mean that you would cut some branches couple of times: 1st when you prune it off the main branch, and 2nd time to shorten it. Actually, any piece of it will likely root if you want, including extra leaves (as long as they are healthy). Just be aware that you could end up with too many jades ! :)

Embothrium mentioned: ..."if it were mine I would try moving it into stronger light without whacking it back, seeing what happens"... That is ok, but there is no question as what happens: etiolated growth will not revert to compact, and your plant is plenty etiolated. That's why I suggest to shorten up cuttings if you wait. OTH, some ppl may like long, bare (or sparsely leaved) branches, with compact, almost pom-pom top - so decide what you like. I have few plants that have, probably, trunks that are too long.

Another suggestion I have is to cut close to a "ring" on the stem. I usually leave just couple of mm beyond. If you leave long stub beyond the 'ring', it will take long time before it dries up.

Hi, Rena - I am so happy to say that everything you said makes sense to me. I have read and watched you tube videos regarding this, and therefore, i understand what you are saying. I did repot it today - the person who gave it to me had the wrong kind of soil in it. I was careful to protect the roots while still taking away some of the compacted dirt. I thought that it might be good to do that now so that it had some time to get the roots re-established before I prune it. I had decided to wait a couple of months to prune to give it the best chance of survival :). So glad you mentioned that in your message. It is also good to know that it can be done at other times if needed.

I am hoping to plant as many of the pruned "trunks" as I can and use them as gifts for my kids and grandkids. Who doesn't love to get easy to care for plants??? I wouild love to have some fellow succulent growers in my area to share new plants and varieties with. Maybe I will add it to my facebook page and see if there is any interest in that. I think Ontario might be too far from Iowa to do that :)