WayPoint soil test, Manganese deficiency
Stephanie, 9b inland SoCal
4 years ago
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Stephanie, 9b inland SoCal
4 years agolast modified: 4 years agoStephanie, 9b inland SoCal
4 years agoRelated Discussions
Soil Test Interpretation and Advice
Comments (3)I hope you didn't put down 50 lbs. of calcitic lime, that's way too much for one application. Seems like most soil testing labs get lime numbers wrong for turf, I think their recommendations are for crops, and no one bothered to change it in the computers they use. Anyway you still need calcitic lime. This looks like a Umass test, so that is what I will be using. Front lawn: Not bad, although it looks like someone has been liming using dolomitic lime. pH is close to optimal, but I would do a high bag rate of calcitic lime (9-10 lbs. per 1000), or Cal Turf Pro (12 lbs per 1000) to raise it up a bit and to add calcium to your soil, which is on the low side. Too much magnesium in relation to calcium can tighten up soil, stunting root growth and water penetration, your ratio is not that great. Other than that, there's not much to do until late summer. Your P is a bit low, but nothing to worry about, and your K could use a little boost, but again, not a big deal. For your fall applications of fertilizer I would use starter this year (Sept., Oct.) which will help with P and K. Your micronutrients look like they need some help, but micros can be tough since too much can be toxic. I don't do micro recommendations because of this, but your boron, zinc and copper all look deficient. Iron you can raise with things like moss out, ironite, and Milorganite with no real worries about over application. Back yard: Much worse back here. Your soil pH is about 1 pH point below where it should be. Calcitic lime at the high bag rate. You are also deficient in magnesium, so you need to add epsom salts. Buy some granular epsom salts at the drug store or supermarket and apply 2 lbs per 1000. Repeat in 90 days. You are a bit more deficient in K and P, so use starter in the fall as well. Your boron, zinc and copper are low too, and adding iron will help with lawn color. On the bright side your organic matter percentages are very nice. You CEC shows a silty loam in the front, and a silty clay loam in back, which are good soils that hold nutrients and water well, so you should have no trouble having a nice lawn....See MoreWhat would you do with this sandy, deficient soil?
Comments (26)Anyone who's used Al's 5-1-1 or any of the other bark-heavy container mixes knows just how excellent pine bark fines are as both a container substrate and soil amendment. One of my garden beds is situated at the foot of a steep bank that I've been trying to stabilize for a number of years using annual additions of pine bark mulch. Every winter, a good deal of the mulch is blown and deposited in the garden - probably a good 1" of finely textured mulch each year. That bed is consistently my best performer - and, when I pull a soil sample for testing - it is as close to ideally balanced as any of my beds. Having said this, I wouldn't anticipate hardwood chips to perform nearly as well. As kimmr pointed out, there's no "secret" to the system. It's simply consistent addition of copious amount of organic matter. I would add two that, since the wood chips (and I'm assuming a preponderance of conifer wood chips in Gautschi's situation) are very slow to decompose, they provide a better source of OM than some other options. Also, I would guess that the lignins and other chemical components of conifer bark would result in a high level of pure humus once it's fully decomposed....See MoreTime of year to treat manganese deficiency
Comments (1)Rather than repetitive and likely costly injections, I'd suggest you investigate why the tree is displaying manganese deficiency (if, in fact, it is) and address the cause rather than just treating the symptoms. Manganese becomes bound in the soil if it is not sufficiently acidic and is fairly common in instances of poor drainage. I'd recommed testing the soil to determine a) its pH and b) current manganese levels and adjust as necessary. Aeration or improving the soil structure is also advised. Manganese sulfate is typically recommended in these cases, as a soil application (you can do now) combined with a foliar spray (in the spring, after leafout). Exercise caution, as excessive Mn in the soil will induce an iron deficiency with its associated chlorosis....See MoreManganese deficiency - how to deal?
Comments (10)Some bacterial spots may have also started, it looks very close to it, and there is definitely points of entry for bacteria. I'd go with woohooman's advice and hit it with copper or neem oil. You can alternate with both, spray one product this week, and spray the other product a week later. Always spray after a rainstorm too. Be sure to follow the directions on the label. Inbetween spray treatments, keep those leaves as dry as possible, and move the affected plants away from your healthy ones. Here is a link that might be useful: One popular Copper formula, Ortho...See MorenanadollZ7 SWIdaho
4 years agoSheila z8a Rogue Valley OR
4 years agolast modified: 4 years agoStephanie, 9b inland SoCal
4 years agolast modified: 4 years agoBenT (NorCal 9B Sunset 14)
4 years agoSheila z8a Rogue Valley OR
4 years agorifis (zone 6b-7a NJ)
4 years agoStephanie, 9b inland SoCal
4 years agolast modified: 4 years agoStephanie, 9b inland SoCal
4 years agoPlumeria Girl (Florida ,9b)
4 years agorifis (zone 6b-7a NJ)
4 years agoStephanie, 9b inland SoCal
4 years agoDingo2001 - Z5 Chicagoland
4 years agoStephanie, 9b inland SoCal
4 years ago
Stephanie, 9b inland SoCalOriginal Author