Keep the tile in the foyer - it looks good. Get rid of that tile in the kitchen - it does look awful.

Thanks! Any other opinions?

First you have to figure out of laminate should be allowed in a kitchen (usually not). Then you have to assess if you WANT to keep the tile in the kitchen. If not, then you need to look at what your kitchen SHOULD look like. Then you choose the material that is appropriate for kitchens (tile, vinyl, stone, cork) and then choose what is appropriate for what you are trying to do.

One floor everywhere and that laminate will be just fine in the kitchen and in the entry a good rug at the door and maybe a good one just outside the door too.

I agree one floor throughout. It’s a PITA to take out tile but nows the time to do it right. Really you will regret leaving either of those tile floors.

I agree w/ others who have said to keep none of the tile.

I want to mention a couple of other things...

First, the laminate says it is waterproof so should be OK for the kitchen. BUT, I would get a small sample of the floor and submerge it in water for a couple of days before committing.

Second, the flooring is dark and your current floor is all quite light in color. This is going to be huge change. Personally, I would go with a medium-light color floor. The dark floor will show every last bit of lint & dust--almost if not as bad as the white tile in the entry is to keep looking clean. Probably worse since there will be so much more of it than there is white tile. And, you may find that you need to supplement lighting if you use the dark floor.

Third, you are going to have a lot of required T-moulding transitions in doorways. Are you aware of this? From the installation directions: Laminate flooring is installed as a floating floor and requires the use of T-moldings in doorways 4 ft (1.22m) or less and in rooms 40 feet (12.2 m) or larger in length or width.

The transitions are going to be somewhat disruptive and the end result may not be quite what you are envisioning?

I installed laminate throughout in a house I eventually rented out. The laminate in the kitchen did survive (barely), but even with tile at the entries, water on boots and shoes got into the joints and raised the edges next to the tile. If you put it in the kitchen, try to have a plan so you could replace the kitchen floor before other flooring: either a wood trim or a low threshold.

Have same issue if not worse throughout house that needs to be fixed up that isn’t mine. I would have never made any of the flooring choices and it’s a mishmash of a multitude of surfaces from vInyl to tile to carpet and several kinds of some of them! What I have been advised to do is if can afford it lay luxury vinyl on top of laminate and tile. Do throughout all areas. If need to spend less luxury vinyl in common areas and carpet in bedrooms. Get a couple of good flooring guys out. if they can level it needed and you dont have to rip out hard floor surfaces youll save a ton of money and can do more area

Thanks everyone!

@ci_lantro I have a couple of questions based on your comments.

1. After submerging the small piece in water for a couple of days, what results would mean an ideal choice?

2. I wasn't aware of the T-molding transitions. I remember hearing something about it when I watched a video, but only vaguely. Why would the transition be disruptive. How are they different?

Absolutely no change...no swelling, etc. of the sample piece. What you need to know is if the flooring is merely water resistant or if it truly is waterproof.

The 'T' of the moulding will sit on top of the laminate, so there will be a slight rise at the transitions. It's not a big deal but I wanted you to be aware of the need for transitions...in case you had visions in your head of a seamless look.

Pix at the link will give you an idea of what to expect:

https://www.laminate-flooring-installed.com/installing-laminate-transitions.html

Depending on how the laminate is laid, some transitions will be parallel to the grain of the laminate & some may be perpendicular to the grain.

@ci_lantro Well that sucks. What is the point of it though? My openings are fairly large. Probably 6+ feet each.

Does it matter which way the flooring is laid? I thought I read somewhere that it should be parallel to you walking in the front door.

Regarding your dark floor comment. After speaking with others and getting tons of samples, I agree with you. What do you think of this option then?

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Pergo-Outlast-Weathered-Grey-Wood-10-mm-Thick-x-7-1-2-in-Wide-x-54-11-32-in-Length-Laminate-Flooring-16-93-sq-ft-case-LF000938/305822159

We used Mannington Arcadia Firewood laminate in 2013 throughout the whole house, two bathrooms, kitchen, the works. Before we bought it we stuck a plank in a 5 gallon bucket of water for a month. Nothing happened to it and nothing has happened to the floors. Wearing like iron. I do have a bath mat to step out of the shower and I use a mat at the kitchen sink to ease long standing but I'm completely sold on Mannington. I use a microfiber dust mop every other day since I live where the dust blows a lot, wipe up any spill in the kitchen with the Mannington floor care spray and I have mats at the entry doors. We do not take off our shoes but dirt and mud stays out.

My installer was a genius in placement--I only have transitions at the bathroom doorways, barely noticeable since they are lines up with the door itself. If I ever have a kitchen issue he installed it so the planks can come out beginning at the back wall and be replaced without tearing up anything in the dining/family room. The flooring runs parallel to the entry, the "long way" so it extends the view of the floor plan.

@deborahhines Thank you! I really like this one from them. I see there's a retailer around me that sells this brand. I just hope it isn't too much. I can find a waterproof Pergo for $2.74 a square foot tops.

https://www.mannington.com/Residential/Laminate/Restoration-Collection/French-Oak/28022

T mouldings needed in doorways of 4 feet or less. You won't need them on your wide 6' openings.

@ci_lantro Gotcha. Sorry I missed the "or less" part. I thought for some reason you said or more. That works then. I will only have one T-molding through walkways. The entry to the kitchen is only 36" or so I believe. Then the door entries. Other than that the few door entries. I can deal with that.

@deborahhines Do you remember how much you paid per sq ft? I visited a local store today that carries Mannington and the price was very high. Almost double the price of everything else I have looked at. It was $4.75 without the underlayment.

Yes, Mannington was more but we were convinced that it would wear longer and better and the appearance was way better than any Pergo product we saw. We purchased it from a wholesaler which saved some $. If you are in a major metro area there will be wholesalers and you can avoid the retail markups. That being said, buy what you can afford for your project, just be sure an do a water test ahead of time. BTW we installed a cheapie brand of laminate 15 years ago in an office. Although it looks less classy there are no wear issues (no water tho). Go for it!

Thanks @deborahhines.

I found a couple of places that carry it much cheaper. One even being an online wholesaler that quoted me 2.51 a sqFt shipped. I might pull the trigger on it this week.

Side question: As you can see in the video, my flooring trim/moulding is a light brown with a slight reddish tint to it. I will be painting all of this white to make it look more modern and obviously match the new floors better. Does anyone have any tips on doing this? I did it at a former house and the paint always chipped.