cut the flange and pull it in.

fatter trim brickmold

Show where it's going -- wall construction etc.

I won't consider a window without seeing a sample unit and architectural details. No one can help you unless you get those derails and post them here. I don't even know what they're made of. You're approaching the solution the same way you approached the purchase.

See if the supplier will give you a break on the cost of replacing them.

I picked new construction because I thought the nail flange was a better way to install and insulate since they are being installed from the outside. This project has already turned into more than anticipated and no matter how prepared we thought we were we are learning as we go and it's dragging on. Every step something comes up.

Cutting off the nail flange would have been the best option had we not already put one in. Smacking myself for that one. Free time is limited and tired of plywood over an open window. Because it's taking longer than we thought I feel pressed for time. That's why I was hoping for some trim option ideas. We could redo and take the flange off but that would set us back a good bit. I guess it's something to sleep on and figure out how we want to proceed.

Beefing up the trim might be my best option at this point. Just haven't found ideas that would work yet. Running out of nice days and with limited free I'm getting anxious to get it done. New windows take weeks to come in.

PPF, the nail fin sits flush with the exterior of the house. Not much to show there. The siding is old aluminum that is already cut away from where the old trim was.

I spend a lot of time researching and picking stuff before doing anything and thought I had it all figured out. Spent too much time focused on one aspect I overlooked another. Live and learn. That's why I'm here looking for advice : )

Do you want help or not? You’ve got an audience here of people who are willing to help you...for free...yet you won’t cooperate. Just show what PPF asked to see. Provide those crucial details that RES mentioned.

The trim can easily built out with plywood or 1x’s . Just mock up the one that is in to see if you like it.

If you tell us the manufacturer and model number of the windows we can probably find the details. The absence of due diligence isn't any more appropriate now than it was when you selected the windows. If you can't understand that, you should find some in-stock windows at a big box store and replace the windows ASAP.

The window that has been installed can be removed. Are these windows designed for a brick cavity wall? So far we know nothing about these windows and your exterior wall so you will get is wild guesses.

The photo appears to be of a mock up that only makes if more difficult to understand the problem. But there seems to be a small groove where a new fin could be installed that might be a good solution but I would need to see a drawing of the jamb. head and sill to be sure.

Gee Sammy, I'm sorry you feel that way. Wasn't intentionally trying to be. It was getting late last night, had a long day and I was pretty tired. I didn't realize explaining what the exterior was like vs getting a picture would come off as not cooperating. Showing the window and where the nail flange lies basically shows what the window would look like set in. And setting the trim piece on was good for reference since that is what I was asking about.

Couldn't get a picture last night anyway since it was dark. I will get a picture of the outside in a bit and post it. Still waking up here :)

Thank you Todd.

When you chose the windows you failed to consider the manufacturers details and you are doing it again now. You don't need daylight to give us the model and manufacturer or to search online for the manufacturer's details yourself. But if its an off brand I guess you might have to call them today.

Photos might be useful but not without the details.

Sorry RES. I missed your second post. They are Provia Endure from a local building supplier. I saw images and diagrams before I purchased them. Saw them in person but didn't notice the protrusion so perhaps they had them trimmed out a different way or I simply just didn't catch it. I never saw images of how the nail flange was applied and made the wrong assumption it would be like all other's I've seen. They simply offer replacement or new construction. Since they are purchased and need installed I'm hoping to make the best of it.

Excuse the plastic it's supposed to rain today and I wanted protection. It's a story up and have to get on a small scaffold so can't get any larger shots.

I could find their door details but not their window details. Here is all I could find:

Its a typical builder grade replacement PVC window with the upper sash narrower than the lower one and the sash set farther to the outside than traditional or clad wood windows and that creates a bulging bug-eyed look.

Without the details I have no solution I could trust to work on all sides.

Window options around here are slim. Big Box stores or a couple local made, Provia being one of them. There is Marvin but that is too much for this house. The supplier I purchased these from is not open on the weekends. Examining pictures in their brochure it looks like they have something to hide groove labeled "I" in the diagram you posted. And another image shows everything flush, no bulge. Not sure how they achieved that look. It's about 2 1/2" all together from the nail flange. We'll have to stop by next week to see if there are extra pieces and ask for trim suggestions. In the meantime I'll play around with what I have and see if I can come up with a look I like.

I have cedar primed and painted for the trim. They just need cut to size and sealed. Final paint coat will go on after installed. However I will need more sizes as I rework the design. I had just wanted to keep it simple like it was before but that won't work. Window range $225- $250, 28x46.

When the upper sash is narrower than the lower sash it’s a builder grade window IMO and such windows put the glass farther to the exterior than wood clad windows for reasons unclear to me.
Make sure the fin was placed for a wood frame not a masonry cavity wall.

If you want to say all vinyl windows are builder grade then that would more make sense and perhaps you indirectly are trying to. Most would not agree the Endure is builder grade or that a narrower upper sash makes aeindow builder grade.

OT - but why does it have to be? Why can't the sash be the same thickness for both so that the upper and lower look balanced and cohesive?

It doesn’t have to be that way but it is the simplest way to design a vinyl window. Some vinyl windows will have the same size sash on both but the glass in the upper will be slightly smaller. Either way they do it does not designate the window as builder grade there are other things that determine that. Obviously RES feels that all vinyl windows are builder grade but there is a big difference amongst vinyl products just like anything else. Never had a customer or read a post about a owner complain about the differences in sight lines.

@User, I imagine you feel at times the frustration of people not doing their proper homework and perhaps being as organized as you might be or other designers/architects. I feel like from some posts I've seen you make, that you give off the unfortunate (architect) vibe. There's no need for it. Not everyone is going to be as organized as us designers and architects are or knowledgeable builders, etc. It is difficult to interpret text online and someones attitude. I've seen numerous posts of yours. Understand the core value of positive reinforcement first and than following it with simliar criticisms I've seen you make, would go a much farther distance as opposed to starting your comments off into full blunt force.

Araya:

You wait 2 years to give RES grief over the tone of his helpful posts? "There's no need for it."

"You wait 2 years to give RES grief over the tone of his helpful posts?"

And you do this with a grand total of one prior post. Before you critique someone else's level of help maybe you should offer advice...............................

I'll let you guys get the last word, since that seems to be what you'd like to do. Take care.

I have the same problem on a new build right now. No one seems to think there is anything unusual about the profile, but it looks very odd to me. The current plan from my builder os to double-up the Azec trim to satisfy my concern. Any other thoughts?

Sorry Ron those windows are installed as they were designed to be. It looks odd to me but is very common with vinyl new construction windows.

I have been searching for this topic for a long time, probably just didn't know the best way to phrase it. We are ordering windows for a new house and I have been very concerned that, based on drawings that I can find, that the window will protrude out past the casing. I am trying to find out if we can use replacement windows which don't have a flange and can be set further back so they don't protrude. Thanks for articulating the problem.

Lots of brands make windows that aren’t ’bug eyed’, you need to look at samples at the lumberyard/ showroom where you are buying them.

Thanks Hallet & Co., we got started with Andersen windows and haven't considered any others. I will ask our supplier for some options. Do you know if you can use replacement windows without the flanges and set the window back in further? My preliminary internet research seems to indicate a general opinion of "why would you want to do that?"

No Andersen new const. windows will give you that bug eyed look.

For a new build, you can also frame it to recess the window back. On 2x6 exterior walls, this is typically done by putting a 2x4 on its flat side all the way around the opening. This sets the face of the window back 2", and the flange mounts to this recessed 2x4 frame. This may or may not work with the style of home you have.

Thank you very much TT. This is something I can discuss with our architect since at this point we have the freedom to frame the window openings in the way that will give us the look we are after. Thanks again.

Happy to help. If you do this, just make sure your framers are familiar with how to accomplish it because they will have to oversize each of the window openings (by 3" in height and 3" in width) in order to leave room for this additional detail. You also need to confirm the window flange is less than 1.5" wide, which it should be.

1) There is nothing at all "wrong" with the OP's installation, nor with the others shown. The window frame itself doesn't not protrude past the exterior wall cladding, that is only the screen frame that does. For sealing and drainage purposes, no issue at all. The only concern is aesthetic which is subjective

2) Two options to address if an aesthetic concern exists were mentioned: pull the window in toward the interior by either removing the nail fins or modifying the framing, or build out the exterior trim.

3) The irony behind some of the "builder grade" comments are that a window that has a "bug eyed" screen track is designed with a 3 1/4" main frame so that it can be used primarily as a "replacement". At minimum, almost all vinyl windows have the screen pushed outward so as not to take up that valuable real estate, and some windows will actually push the outer sash beyond the 3 1/4" frame into the screen track to gain the sash thickness needed for higher end triple pane glass units, in addition to superior strength and insulation.

4) Due to the design of the vast majority of vinyl windows as it pertains to sealing against air leakage, the outer half of the jamb is generally stepped in so that the inner sash can seal against it. The outer sash therefore needs to be reduced in width of the overall unit, meaning that either the sightlines are unequal (if the sash stiles are the same size), OR the stiles are reduced in width to create equal sightlines of glass. Neither is necessarily right or wrong, however the former will prioritize function/performance whereas the latter is really just for looks.