Usually if they are not growing(and the leaves are shriveling) it means trouble,dont overwater it and keep an eye on the new leaves,it may have suffered some root damage,did you have it outside last season?could it have gotten frozen roots at any time? If it got some root damage and your keeping it from being to wet it may come back,if the spear pulls its probably to late as this sounds to have started from the roots.If your palm can hang on without spear pull until spring/summer it has a good chance of coming back,if you really feel like you need to take action the best thing to do is sinse the soil off,check for root damage and if there is some trim all of the damaged stuff off, treat with root hormone,repot in a well draining soil keep it warm and hope,you can also try watering with superthrive after its been replanted,sometime its not a great idea to move a sick plant but then again it may save it,so,there it is.

Well, Trachycarpus fortunei is probably your best bet. Your cool summers will not deter it from growing. Unlike many of the more tropical species, T. fortunei really slows down in high summer in warmer zones. I protected mine minimally the first two winters by decorating the trunks with X-mas lights then wrapping with a very shear, white "blanket" that I picked up at the nursery. You can see the lights beneath the blanket so it looks really decorative and cool for the X-mas season. So far, I have not had a problem with loss of the center bud (despite a very wet winter last year). Both are planted on the south side of the house. Yes, they do burn some after the Winter but they are in active growth by late February. So far, they have seen a minimum of 4 F., snowstorms and ice storms. They are unusual in that they do seem to go in a cold-induced dormancy (unlike other palms). They actually handle long, cold, and WET zone 7 winters very well as long as minimums are not too arctic for too long and the soil drains. Good luck!

What wetsuiter said. Even if some fronds may not look the best but are still mostly green, they are probably still doing their jobs and providing the plant with much needed energy from photosynthesis. Leaves, while they are pretty/ nice to look at, are an extremely important organ for any tree/ plant. Leaves also perform sevreal important functions on plants such as respiration and transpiration. If you ever get the chance to study plants / trees and all of their organs that help to make them function you will be amazed at the complexity. The palm you got from walmart, ericthehurdler got it right. Parlour Palm. The scientific name or botanic name is Chamaedorea Elegans. Those are a fantastic family of palms. Chamaedorea Elegans are in fact a SOLITARY palm. The reason they come how you got them, with many plants all clumped together is because growers often just germinate 10-20 or so seeds in a pot, and poof, you have a 'plant'. But, what you in fact have in that pot, is probably 10-20 small individual palms. It is up to you if you wish to separate them out. Often in the past what I have done is separated out the 1-3 largest ones and left the others to grow more. Also another thing that can, and does happen is that some of them may eventually die off. Personally, I find a single one of these palms in a pot by itself more appealing, espeically when they get older. I have a few, and one of them I got from a pot similar to yours. It was the largest, but still a young plant with no trunk. It now has about 7 to 10 leaves, has shed about 6 leaves, and has about 4 inches of clear trunk on it and is taking on the classic palm tree appearance. Mine is about 4 years old now, (the amount of time I have had it) but it is probably more like 6 years old in total. They grow fairly SLOW. They are probably one of, if not THE easiest palms to take care of. Virtually bullet proof. Very hard to over / underwater them, though I would err on the side of underwatering them because they can handle that easily, and also do not need tons of light. You can successfully grow one of these in a north facing window that gets hardly any direct sun with no problem. In fact, since they are an understory palm that grows only several feet or so high on the forest floor, they prefer mainly indirect or very filtered light, and NOT direct sunlight. Direct sunlight can burn the leaves. I have had one burn on me with just one day's exposure to full sun. Also, this palm, and all the other palms in its genus (Chamaedorea) are mainly jungle palms, so many prefer the lower light conditions, somewhat elevated humidity, and fairly warm temps. Definitely NOT cold hardy. That said, there are some that can HANDLE some abuse, and the palm that you have gotten is one of those palms. Anyway Best of luck with both of your palms!

the fert is fine, specialty palm fert is the best, but any of it is fine. palms dont have the kind of root system a normal tree does and you can really burn and clog the roots with to much fert. not that your putting the wrong type on it just a bit to frequent for the winter. they are going to slow down even under a HPS. just water when needed and try to rotate the fert maybe every other water or so. everything else seems good