Building beds w/ heaped compost/soil mix...till or no?
bosewichte
4 years ago
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John D Zn6a PIT Pa
4 years agolast modified: 4 years agoRelated Discussions
Raised Bed Filled W/ 'Conditioned' Native Clay Soil?
Comments (6)I'm not sure what you read that made you so pesimistic. I will tell you that I certainly felt that way to start with. I live in the NC piedmont which stands for a deep vein of red heavy clay soil. White clay is even worse as it indicates that air can't get into the small particles and rust the iron to red. However it is plenty hard and slimy clay like when wet. We have the largest hand thrown pottery community here. Thirty miles south, the soil turns to sand and the interface is the brick capital of the country! I doesn't appear that anything except grass will grow in this soil. However, if ammended heavily with bulk, it does wonderfully as it holds water and nutrients extremely well. We are in the country. I found a cattleman who has cow manure/bedding piled up and mixed after being mucked out of the barns. I bought a dump truck load (I actually bought two and moved it multiple places later) and had a third to a half of it dumped in my ~25' x 35' garden and tilled it in. That could have been between 6 to 10 cu yds of black composted manure. That changed the texture of the soil and it is still there after 6+ years. Gas was much cheaper then and it cost me $60 for delivery and $50 for the manure. Would be much more now for delivery....See MoreDo I Need Fertilizer with high nutritious, composted soil?
Comments (56)“Salty” Manure It’s quite easy to find NPK values for manures and manure compost. Bagged composts containing manure that I have seen are typically in the NPK range of other bagged composts ��" 1-1-1 for example. It is not so easy to find ‘salt’ content of manures. Everyone likes to SAY that “manure is salty,” but there are vastly more NPK reports for manures on the web than there is data on salt content. If anyone has actual data, please post a link. Fact sheets and articles saying manure is salty are not particularly useful. It does make sense that when urine is included in the manure, it would have higher salt content. Particularly in a feedlot, where (reportedly) higher salt levels are fed in order to make the animals retain water so they sell for more. If you’re getting manure from someone who has a couple of horses, it’s probably going to be different from manure from a beef feedlot. This does not make all manure unusable. My FIL put manure on his garden (NE silty sandy loam) annually for decades and had wonderful gardens year after year. I have clay (which retains salts longer), mostly use my own compost, and wouldn’t use pure manure year after year. I do occasionally buy bagged products that have or probably have manure in them. No problems here. “Alkaline Soils” A claim was made that Western soils retain more salt because they are alkaline. It was always my impression that Western soils retain salts better because it’s more arid in the West so they are not washed out. Regardless, it might be a good idea for Westerners to watch the amount of manure they add, and know what’s in it. Unfortunately in arid zones there is often a lack of green waste for composting, but there are lots of cattle so manure becomes an important source of OM for gardeners. “Heavy Metals” I was able to find a paper on extraction of HM from manures and it appeared that Cd, Hg, Pb were somewhat higher than they might be in native soils depending upon where you are. Based on the numbers I saw, it would take a looong time for them to become significant. However metals do accumulate (they don’t biodegrade) and the heavy ones likely don’t leach away (the more clayey the soil, the more they will stick). Basically any time you’re importing organic matter (or synthetic fertilizer, for that matter), any bioaccumulative constituents present are being added to your current load. Unless you can subsist entirely on your own compost made from your own waste, this is an inevitable consequence. How long would it take for Pb to build up to an unsafe level in topsoil if you’re adding so many lb of imported compost per sq ft per year? The math is not actually that complicated. What’s the HM content of non-manure based composts (i.e. the alternatives)? What’s the background level of HM in the soil to begin with? These are all things to consider, and there is no single answer due to the endless variations. Rejecting the use of manure based compost entirely, on the basis of HM content, is a very simplistic approach....See MoreHelp Building Soil for New Yard (mostly berries)
Comments (12)OK. In your post about cover crops I mentioned that generally native plants don't need a lot of soil improvement, being already adapted to local soils as is. I think since your soil had a lawn growing more or less successfully on it, you don't need to worry much about improving the soil. If you were in new construction that would be a different matter but you're not. In our rainforests, as in most rainforests, there is very little organic matter or nutrient content in the soil itself. Too much rain, everything gets washed out. The nutrients tend to be contained in plant biomass, either living or relatively recently dead and fallen to the ground. If you were to dig a soil profile in the Quinault rainforest there'd be an organic layer of leaf and twig debris on top of the soil along with fallen logs and branches; then there'd be a very very thin A horizon which is where most soil microbial activity takes place; then there'd be a heavily leached B horizon (the lower part of what's called topsoil) and below that there might be subsoil or there might be just rock, or a glacial hardpan. I'm surprised at how thin the soil is that these trees are growing on! Roadcuts and landslides in the Olympics show big doug firs growing in just a few inches of soil on top of bedrock. Typically for rainforests, both temperate and tropical, most nutrient recycling take place in the organic litter on top of the soil and the top few inches of soil. Some plant roots reach deeper of course but mainly for water and balance, there's not much microbial activity down there. That's one reason you see so many plants growing on top of rotting logs and stumps - it's where the nutrients are. So, what to do with your garden. You could plant now, without adding anything to the planting holes, and mulch around the plants - that would mimic their native environment. In our area you can plant hardy plants any time the soil is neither frozen nor waterlogged. If this will be your first winter in this garden, you might want to see how it performs over the winter, flooding and drainage wise, before finalizing your planting plan. Or, to be sure you've gotten the lawn grasses out, you could go with the cardboard covered with manure and tree chips route, then plant in spring. Typical ryegrass lawns are not that persistent, but if you had bentgrass or quackgrass, you need to be sure it's gone before planting. Adding organic mulches should take care of any nutrient needs. Yes our soils are typically low in calcium, but that's what the native plants are used to. Don't worry about it, or the pH. Leaf mold from deciduous trees would add calcium too, it's the coniferous stuff that makes our soil acid and calcium deficient. But what does 'deficient' mean if you're growing plants that are adapted to that state?? Calcium content is mainly an issue when growing (non native) plants from areas where the soil provides more calcium than ours does. What, no salal?...See MoreIdea for high moisture woody debris compost heap
Comments (7)Thanks for the replies y'all. Yeah lazy_gardens, I'm thinking of this as a hugelkultur style setup. Actually I will read a little more on hugelkultur, that will help I think. Also, after your reply kimmq I started thinking about it that way. I am sure the wood will decompose very slowly if at all, so that's one reason I was thinking urine and sour kombucha would be good to help provide some quick nutrients. I know urine works as good fertilizer. I was thinking maybe I would layer the top with some finished garden soil and maybe use the area to grow veggie transplants or my guess is some sort of tree seedlings or other perennial. I'm worried that veggies might not like the rooting environment, but I thought maybe perrennials would be more tolerant. Good point lazy_gardens about the "hard to walk." I am hoping that if I layer enough stuff and maybe dig away at the bottom of the slope a little bit I can build up a wide enough flat zone at the bottom to have a very narrow path next to the hugulkultur bed/compost heap. One thing I was thinking is that this project would be better to start in the fall but on the other hand spring here is usually pretty wet so I might give it a go. Hmm, now I'm thinking more... What might be cool is to have the path along the fence, and then build the bed into the slope. The path could be above the bed slightly, so it would be a *lowered* bed instead of raised, helping with moisture retention. Well really I want it raised now to help drain, but then to become lowered in summer to retain moisture, and then raised again through the winter. Of course, I'm not sure all the work would be necessary, but on the other hand it's good to have an actively composting part of the yard where I can throw random organic matter. If I keep building it up, I would eventually make the whole area level with the rest of the yard, just by building up the path and bed at different rates in order to make one or the other relatively higher or lower. So if the plants could have a long woody trunk/stem they would presumably tolerate covering and uncovering it with soil/organic matter. So I think this will be a fun experiment-- any ideas for plants that would work well down there? I'm hoping I can grow something that can take advantage of the extra moisture. I was even thinking of getting really crazy and trying to cover it with plastic or cloth or windows to make it more humid/hotter and/or lower light as well. Then I could possibly show off and grow some tropical or other exotic stuff. If it was something that wouldn't get that tall I could even keep it in these conditions once mature. On the other hand, growing tall fast might be good so they can get out of the shade quickly. Always more work in the garden than one has time for! Figuring out creative ways to do it efficiently is a fun challenge :-)...See Moregdinieontarioz5
4 years agobosewichte
4 years agogdinieontarioz5
4 years agowildhaven
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4 years agoJohn D Zn6a PIT Pa
4 years agobosewichte
4 years agotoxcrusadr
4 years agobosewichte
4 years agoJohn D Zn6a PIT Pa
4 years agobosewichte
4 years agoprairiemoon2 z6b MA
4 years ago
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