If you do any research on Superthirive at all, you will find just as many negative opinions as you will find positive, perhaps a good deal more!!. There is no documented scientific evidence - it is all anecdotal - that Superthrive provides ANY benefits to plants at all. Plants do not need vitamin supplements - they get all they need from the soil or in most cases, manufacture their own via photosynthesis. If for no other reason, supplements/fertilizers are never given to ailing plants as stressed plants are not able to metabolize these products. The "miraculous revival" of half dead plants attributed to Superthrive is more likely a case of them receiving a proper watering from the application, as the dilution rate is so low as to be providing virtually pure water anyway. Aucuba is an extremely problem-free and easy to grow shrub....if given the right conditions. It is not particularly fussy about pH, so doubt any liming is necessary. It does best in part to full shade and in organically enriched, somewhat moist soils but is tolerant of much drier conditions once established. The frequent, unseasonal dropping of foliage is most likely water-related. Too dry conditions in too much sun/heat are just as likely as too much water or poorly draining soils. This can lead to root rots - about the only serious problem these plants experience. And the description is very appropriate for a root rot......and all th applications of Superthrive on the planet will not help with that!!

Hi Barb, you can use NEEM for the common red spidermites or two spotted spidermites. That is the one that is most commonly seen and NEEM will work pretty good on those. There are more rarely a broad mite which is more resistant to most pesticides that is better sprayed with Avid or other specific miticides. Are you new to growing angel trumpets? You can visit the brugmansia forum here on GW for more specific info on brugmansia and datura. I have over a hundred varieties now and they never cease to amaze me.

I know you've been around the forums for a while, so I'm wondering if you've been monitoring soil moisture levels with a 'tell'? A tell is much more effective than a "moisture meter" or a digital device (a finger). The symptoms do look like there are issues in play which are related to an overly water-retentive soil and or a high level of salts in the soil. Please tell us how you decide when it's time to water, how you fertilize, what you use, and how often you apply the fertilizer. Does your pot have a drain hole? Do you have a set-up so that once water exits the drain hole, there is no possibility of the effluent finding a pathway back into the soil. What kind of temps, light levels, humidity, is the plant dealing with? Water uptake is an energy-driven process, and it takes oxygen in the root zone to burn the food to make the energy. An inadequate oxygen supply = limited root function = an inability to move water to the plants most distal parts (leaf tips/margins) = the manifestation of the symptoms depicted in your images. So, let's wait to see what you have to say, then see if we can determine what needs fixing, then develop a plan to get it fixed. Al

If plant gets lanky, it s best to behead it. My chroma grew one of the long stem too, and I have to do it yet - maybe I'll wait until Spring. I probably will cut it where the black line is since there is an offset growing lower on the stem: You can also see one dry leaf - that is normal ageing and will soon fall off (or I'll pick it off). As plant ages, and receives enough light, stems should become harder and corkier too. How much sunlight are yours receiving? To make sure it doesn't happen again (stem rotting), perhaps increase drainage. Your mix looks like it has quite a bit of perlite or pumice, but iI am looking only at the photo. If your mix contains lots of peat, there is a chance it may create problem: if kept dry, peat becomes hydrophobic. Another possibility is to use topdressing of gravel - it keeps stems and/or lowest leaves away from moisture. Some ppl do not like topdressing, but I use it on almost all my plants (all succulents, and most non-succulents too). ETA: gravel topdressing helps to keep stems upright too. Your plant is mostly green and that suggests to me that it was kept in relatively low light. Low light is also cause of week stems. Another is that rosette is not as compact. Here is the same rosette showing how much compact it is. Leaves are also darker in color: