Hi & welcome to Gardenweb! Agree with the above. If this was mine, I would scoop it out and leave the root ball sitting loosely on the surface to dry more quickly, maybe even laying it on some newspaper if it's very moist. Then snip the stem below the concentration of aerial roots and sit it atop another pot with a more chunky, porous mix that is barely moist, burying the aerial roots just enough so they don't spring back up, without packing them down at all. That looks like it will leave about 4 leaves and a couple aerial roots on the original plant. See if you can get those aerial roots to make contact with the soil and stay that way. Put both in the sunniest spot you have and let them dry out. Then go very lightly with the water for the removed top part, until the roots have a chance to go throughout the pot, just moisten the surface the first few times. If/when the original part perks back up, gently knock the old soil off of its' roots and put in the chunkier mix that dries out quickly, then finally give it more water. If the soil for these types of plants does not dry quickly, they can rot. Even just after watering, having tiny air pockets throughout the pot is good so the roots can get some air as well as moisture. So avoiding fine particles like peat and sand, and actual soil is best since these small particles fill up all of those spaces, suffocating roots and harboring too much moisture.

If you grow in containers (pots) you need potting soil, period. It is essentially a soil-less mix of peat or coir, bark and some sort of drainage enhancement like perlite or pumice. Growing plants in a container is very different from growing them in the ground. It is essentially a closed system and the grower - you - needs to supply all the input of nutrients, water and sunlight. And because it is a closed system, drainage is critical. Potting soil has been formulated to have very good drainage - garden soil does not. Second to drainage is aeration. Potting soil typically offers a range of textures and therefore adequate pore space to provide aeration. Garden soil tends to be dense and very uniform in particle size so aeration is often miniscule at best. Garden soil - "dirt" - stays outdoors in the garden. You can enhance ordinary garden soil by adding compost or other organic matter or with various other amendments but often nothing else is required. Potting soil can be used for any container purpose - houseplants, seasonal color spots, hanging baskets, vegetables, or more permanent planter box or container plantings of trees and shrubs.

Dear Amber Rae: Here I am in Ottawa, Canada and we have many different types of Hen & Chicks in our garden. They stay outdoors all winter - so if it works here, it should work for you. Some plants LOOK sort of like Hen & Chicks but are more tender: Echeverias and Graptoverias. Those I have outdoors and in full sun in the summer - they love it, and then I bring them indoors for the winter. This has worked fine for several years now.

Thank you so much, Jamila!!! I love my garden window - it wasn't always this pretty haha! I'm running out of space though. What I REALLY need is a greenhouse room... Ooh, and if it were temperature controlled! Oh, then that would be a dream come true. Someday... Someday :) A garden window is a large window with space for plants that sticks out of your house. It has vented side windows that have the option to be opened or closed, and they're typically built in this shape: http://www.northknoxsidingandwindows.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/North-Knox-Garden-Window-9.jpg Sometimes they have shelves built in aswell (mine doesn't). Mine was also installed incorrectly - it should start directly from my kitchen, but instead it starts a foot out (there's a wood piece ((I guess you could call it a really thick border)) that shouldn't be there). I don't mind this too much though - it just gives me more room to put plants!! And the plants on this wood piece still get great light.