Nice plan but a few things you might want to think about before finalizing: 1) This is a very complex shaped house design (i.e., lots of exterior corners). Be aware that the least expensive home to build is a basic rectangle and that every variation from the rectangle increases costs. All those juts in-and-out increase costs per square foot because they result in a higher ratio of exterior walls to interior square footage which means more framing material, more insulation, a more complicated roof-line and foundation, etc. Not saying you should change a thing... just thought you ought to be prepared for the sticker shock you may receive when you start getting bids. 2) You kitchen island is positioned so that any dirty dishes in the sink will be on display to anyone in the Great Room. No problm if you're the kind of housekeeper who keeps the sink area spic and span at all times. Me? I would want the island turned so that the raised section helped to hide my sink from the great room. But that would pretty much require an entire reshaping of the kitchen and thus the rest of the plan. So, you will probably want to keep it as is. 3) No windows in the kitchen itself? Patio deck doors and great room windows may be rather far away to provide much natural light for kitchen. You don't mention the direction your house faces and, if the wall that the fridge is against is a north wall, you might not want any windows there. But, in that case, I would question placing your screen porch on that side of the house. 4) The laundry room and mud room seem a bit cramped...especially for a home with three kids. Since the garage juts forward anyway, unless you're already running up against lot-line setbacks, consider pulling the snout of the garage forward another couple of feet and then extending the mud room and laundry room forward an equal distance into the garage to enlarge them. The cost to do so should be relatively minor compared to overall cost to build because, although you would be adding a bit of square footage, you would not be increasing the complexity of the design in any way. 5) Make ABSOLUTELY certain that your pantry is wide enough to accomodate the freezer you want to put in it... not just the one you have already. Measure the depth of the freezer you want to purchase and then add about three inches. A freezer can't sit right up against the back wall. You have to leave room for air circulation and you don't want the freezer sticking out so far into the pantry aisle that you can hardly squeeze past it. I thought I had left plenty of room for a freezer in our mudroom/pantry but freezers today are bigger than my old one. Our new one just BARELY fits. I have just exactly enough space between the freezer and the counter across the aisle to fully open the freezer door... nor an inch to spare. It works - but if my pantry/mudroom were 6 inches wider, it would feel a whole lot more spacious! Also, speaking of freezer doors, you probably don't want to put the freezer right up against the side wall or you may not be able to fully open the freezer door. It needs swinging room. Finally, make sure that at least one of your pantry doors is wide enough to get the freezer in and out of the pantry! We had to have the interior door of our pantry reframed to 36" wide b/c our builder installed a 32" exterior door on the mudroom/pantry instead of the 36" wide one specified on the plans... and we didn't notice THAT error until after we fired him and took over the build ourselves. (By that time it would have cost us thousands to reframe the exterior wall, get a new exterior door, have the cabinets on the exterior walls remade to fit the reduced space, etc., etc., etc., GRRRR!!!) 6) Similar issue to above...how much room is there between your refrigerator and your kitchen island? Unless you get a "counter depth" fridge, your new fridge could stick out as much as a foot beyond the edge of the surrounding countertop. 7) Have you thought about furniture placement yet? Bedroom 2 looks a bit problematic b/c the best position for a double bed seems to be up against the bathroom wall. But that would mean one would have to walk around the bed to get from closet to bath. Perhaps you could flip the bathroom vertically so that the tub is against the front wall and the bathroom door is close to the closet door. 8) In bedroom 3, would the door fit on that little angled section of wall? If so, I think you'd find it easier to place a full-sized bed and other furniture in the room. Besides, that would give you a nice section of wall space in the landing/hallway for a bench or maybe some book cases. 9) Not sure I agree with zookeeper93 about combining the closet and laundryroom (especially not if you can increase the size of the laundry room.) It can be nice to have a separate closet that isn't subjected to laundry room lint. And I definitely would not want my freezer in the laundry room area. Guests helping me cook sometimes need to access the freezer when my laundry room is simply not presentable. LOL! 10) I do agree with zookeeper93 tho that the angles in your master closet are going to limit the actual useable hanging space. Unfortunately, I don't think you have room enough for a door into the commode room if you try to just straighten out the wall by the commode room. I can't tell what those two little niches are between the master closet and the master bedroom (seats?, inset bookcases? art niche's?). If it were me, I would get rid of them and incorporate that area into my master closet. I would also swap where the shower and commode are. I think that would give you enough room for a closet with nice-sized USEABLE his/hers sections. Maybe something like this with a pocket door to the master bath: BTW, you need to be very careful when using pocket doors to make sure that you're not planning to attach closet rods or the supports for something like an Elfa closet system to the walls where the pocket door "hollow space" is. Remember, there are no STUDS in that space and you need STUDS to support the weight of clothing hanging on closet rods.

Zone4 - I love a lot of things about that plan. I'll list the immediate things I see that wouldn't work. If anyone has any way to make those things work then I would gladly suggest it to my builder. I like the exterior a lot! -I would like the main level laundry (we hope to have an upstairs laundry with kids rooms) to be near or even in the master. -Not sure about kitchen. Would have to work on the layout. Are the dimensions wall to wall? Does anyone know? -We are hoping for at least 16 feet (would love 20 but don't think it will happen) for dining space to accommodate our large table. -Upstairs beds and baths seem to be on the small side but not terribly small. -Would like a laundry upstairs. Reno-I'm finding that to be very true. It has made me stay in check on size though. When I would make plans before I would bump a wall out here or there and end up with 8000 square feet. LOL Okay, well not 8000 but you know what I mean. I'm not sure I understand what you mean about "thinking about the spaces created between the room you are moving around". Do you mean the room I am moving to another location in the plan or the main focus room (ie., living room or kitchen or...) that we think is highest priority and making the plan work around that? I keep reminding myself that things that take a lot of work are usually worth it. I'll keep trudging along. I appreciate your help!

Also, I think I see paint samples applied directly on the walls. In general, you have to be sure to sand down and smooth out those samples but with the way the light hits that wall, you're going to have to be super careful. If you're not, the shape of the swatches will telegraph thru the final coats - cheap or expensive paint, they will telegraph thru. Many seem to have one dining room wall that catches light throughout the day and that wall is like a magnet for paint samples. lol! :) But here's what it looks like if you don't sand them down.

Elephant in the Room: "...we are having a friend do the install..." This is fine with flooring (as in hallways, bedrooms, etc) but not a great idea with stairs. As everyone has said (and I will repeat myself) stairs are EXPENSIVE because they deal with CODE. A 'friend' will have to be willing to take ALL LEGAL RESPONSIBILITY should the product that s/he applies cause A. injury or B. fail code. Most friends aren't that excited to be on the hook for 'helping out'. Carpets HIDE the WORST MATERIALS in the building world. By worst I mean CHEAP and POORLY made. That NORMALLY includes OSB. OSB can be the cheapest of the cheap. It is made up of 'chips' of wood glued together with a waxy substance. The very make up of OSB PREVENTS stuff from being GLUED to the surface. Enter: Vinyl stair covering. Vinyl planks/nosing MUST BE GLUED to the stair's substrate. Imagine the substrate as the WORST OSB possible. Stairs need to be strong and meet minimum code. Builders LOVE to use the CHEAPEST MATERIALS on stairs because stairs are INHERENTLY expensive. So....save $300 on the stairs and you have $300 in your pocket (the GC/Builder). So long as stairs are DESIGNED to be carpeted the architect and builder have NO INCENTIVE to make it out of anything other than OSB. I know this is all new to you. So I will spell this out for you: your assumption about plywood (plywood is EXPENSIVE = saved for places where it is NEEDED) is, sadly, a problem. A plywood stair would be AWESOME for your situation. But I would bet dollars to doughnuts you have OSB. And the subfloor UPSTAIRS is probably going to be OSB as well (see discussion about costs of plywood). OSB does VERY WELL under carpet. Carpet can cover hills and valleys and sagging sections of the subfloor (OSB does ALL of those things and MORE). As soon as you want to put down a rigid floor (where carpet used to be) you MUST ASSUME a LOT of patch/repair. Again, this is where the COST of the repair comes in. I have told my clients to BUDGET $2-$4/sf worth of SUBFLOOR REPAIR when removing carpet. Yes. That is the same price as the vinyl planks themselves. The subfloor repair can DOUBLE the cost of your project. Now ask your friend if s/he is GOING to do the 8-16 hours worth of work to PROPERLY prepare the subfloor upstairs. This is when using a friend gets tricky. So long as you are paying them FULL MARKET VALUE for their labour/skills, your friendship will remain solid. If they are doing this for beer and pizza, then things are going to get VERY tense. I know this is new to you, so be PREPARED for MUCH BIGGER project costs than you originally anticipated. If you have to repair the upstairs subfloor AND REBUILD (remove the OSB and then lay down NEW PLYWOOD on) the stairs you are in for a MASSIVE bill. Rebuilding stairs is worth the same price of the vinyl AND the cost of labour to repair the upstairs subfloor. It runs in the THOUSANDS of dollars. Just so you know.